87pathy

There is nothing wrong with a rebuilt pump. Just depends on the quality. I personally have always purchased rebuilt pumps. (generally) Number 1 reason for water pumps going bad after install is over tension of teh pulley.

when mine broke, it was the same conditions as you mensioned. I guarantee you ran the valves into the pistons. I personally bent 6 of 12 valves. I'd pull the heads

I'm starting to like you more and more!

Two Doors Rock!!!!! Go team triangular window!!!!

OMG.. i think thats the 3rd time in my life i've ever heard that..lol just playing man. It looks like it shouldn't be too hard to fix, if you don't have the tools to drill and easy out the broken bolts, sometimes you can get on the edge and drive it arouind with a punch and / or Chisel and hammer.

x2 ^^^^^^ However MWS, i think it wasn't tight engough, If you look at the contact surface its shiney. This to me indicates movement. Then the "untorqued bolts were carrying the load instead of bolts + Surface friction. If The bolts were over torqued, and just snapped when they pass yeild it wouldn't have such a polished finish, but rather a dull finish, with some scratch marks. (minor oxidation between the two parts) However with such a small pic and no close up, its hard to say for sure. This from the guy who gets to tell the engineers they are wrong.

ya, buzz boxes are pretty good if you don't care about penetration.

i'd go this way myself ^

Every bad master cylinder i have seen had those symptoms. The key symptom is that sometimes its ok, and sometimes its Awful. my old ford, my buddies mazda, my dads chev.. ya.. i'd start there. if it was a "brake" problem it would be consistant.

Theortically your right about the battery cable, but i'd still fix it first. Bad grounds can cause wierd problems.. like bizzar

yes please.. -bounce- -bounce- -bounce- . i surely wish i had done that to mine when i had the heads off, but i was young and had to get it going

I'd pull the heads, and look for any damage on the pistons, if there is visible damage, then take it all down. if not, fix the heads, and go. My timing belt broke several years ago, and i turned it over, and beat the pistons into the valves, but not piston damage. Rebuilt my heads, and i'm about 30,000 miles later

Oh ya, one thing i don't have that i wish I had was a chop saw. If you got the money buy one, if not a good sawzall and Milwakee "the torch" blades, you can cut most anything.

That is not necessarily GL-4, i put that in my diffs and its rated GL5.. Castol as a mater of fact

If you want to fab, first thing is this, make sure you have the right tools. Minumum, Welder (and not a little 110 buzz box), 8" vise, grinder, torch, and multiple clamps. For making nice breaks without a press, put it in your Vise, heat it right where it enters the vise. It will bend about 1/4" above this.(trust me) make sure its red before bending or it will not be controled. TAKE YOUR TIME

No kit for trimming, just a 1 special tool, its called an eyemetrometer...lol

as previously stated, STOP SPENDING MONEY ON THE BS. if you must spend money, spend it on engine, and rear suspension. don't spend another penny on the nissan IFS. the nissan ifs sucks butt. its good for a DD but for extreme off road :oops: You could have got you a solid front axle and coil springs for the 350 you already spent. i wheeled my 87 for a long time with the stock center link. Buying new shocks, are you crazy? they will be scrap as soon as you do an SAS. save that 100 bucks and buy new lockouts for the HPD44 you will be buying in the spring for the SAS. seriously, 3 years i spend collecting parts for my full width SAS.

ya, and i had that boat under deception pass in Washington, all over the sound, would pull up 2 skiers.. it wa quiet incredible... couldn't belive that it worked. finally, there became a crack in the exahust manifolt (1968 larson boat) and it got into the crank case somehow. but we ran it like that (personally) family had it, for 10 years. and it worked just fine.. quiete amazing. I have also used it for holding together multiple fishing reals...(when the shaft breaks off teh stem).. duck tape is good stuff. but not even in the same catagory as jb weld NOW..This is a bit off topic, but in the NAVY, we used some stuff we called PIG PUDDY. you could sand it, drill it and tap it. It wouldnt hold any high tension bolts, but you could use it for holding in SKIN screw and the like. It was a 2 part epoxy in a puddy, cut it, kneed it and wa-la.. i fixed a hole in an engine Nacel this way.

i call Bull @!*%. if you were pulling about 200lbs maybe but other than that BS.

ya, you just bent it taking it out the first time. bend it back with 2 pairs of vise grips and install it. Make sure that it comes tight around the inner most ID and it will be fine

what brand and were did you buy that stuff? I need to do my back interior.. oh and how $$$$ JP

you can't just swap out the engines. The problem is, if you put in an EFI engine and attach it to the TBI, you will get fire.. big fire. The TBI is basically (for lack of better explanation) always open on the fuel injectors. If you are always open on the EFI fuel injectors you will have problems. if you swap out everything (basically running a 95 setup in the 87) the computer, wire harness and other periferies will be wrong. This is vague and i'm sure 88 will correct me, but unless you only use the engine and run all the 87 BS with it, you will have problems.

I have used JB weld on the following. 1) cracked water jacket on an inboard boat motor. It was only cracked through to the outside so we buttened it up.. worked for over 15 years till the boat fell apart. 2) when i was in high school, me and a friend of mine were changing the motor mounts in his 66-F100. In the process of jacking the engine up, we neglected to notice the huge hole that we just broke in the side of the transmission top cover (it was aluminium). I took a piece of card board and layered the jb on thick, slapped in over the whole and wha la! that same tranny is behind a different engine in a different truck and its till the same!

I retract my previus statement.. i agree about the T-case gears. some 4:1's would be sooooo nice and easier on the clutch. and what was that thing i saw about 115 bucks for a body lift.. check out jcwhitney man they are only like 75 bucks

high steer knuckles, full belly skid plate, Hydraulic stearing or upgrade to a 94 steering box