87pathy

I like the wholesetup of hte tx-10 doulber.. but i don't like the look of that shaft.

If you look at the end of the shaft, where the main shaft turns into the input for the adaptor, the shoulder is square. thats a bad design. Look at this one... see how it slopes down to the spline secion?

yup.. dats what i'm saying homie. but again, i'd still take it to the shop, i freeking hate exhaust systems.

actually when it comes to exhaust parts.. I just take it to them and tell them to fix it. cheaper and easier in the long run.

I really don't like the looks of that stub shaft. there is a massive stress Raiser on it, the shoulder is square.. bad design.

your going to need them, you ever tried to drill through an exhaust flange after its been hot and cold 1000 times? your going to need quality cutting tools are you'll just be waisting money.

my buddy has it done, and it works.. but its also a trailer only rig.

choose B by the time you break a drill bit, and buy a tap, you'll be at 40 bucks, and at least what your getting into.

not really, those d44's were ofset pretty good. could you do it, yes.. is it advised, No. You also have to have a longer drives shaft slip, becuause ehen it flexes it travels a greater distance due to the geometry.

The problem with going to MPFI from teh TBI is you need a computer and new wirehing harness, as well as all the later model sensors. Not really worth it for 10hp in my opinion. where are you located?

manual hubs.. dont mess around. not worth it. I've seen them unlock when going from forward to reverse. ya ya.. many of you will say it doesnt happen, but i've seen it first hand severa times.

did you change the tranny filter? also, the engine oil leak could very possibly be a cam seal. my right hand side one leaks when its on its side.

personally id sell them and get a locker

I bet your hubs are jacked. the autos are notorious for it. get on a slick hill where your back tires only will spin. Put it in 4x4 and have somebody check to see if your front half shafts are turning. If they are, and the front tires are not, then your hubs are jacked.

any place you can on the intake manifold. Pull your line off the brake booster and use that if you want. Just need a vaccum port.

vaccum time it. get a vaccum gauge and hook it to the intake manifold. advance the timing till it maxes out. should be aorund 20lbs. then back it off 2 to 3 pounds.. done.

timing is to far advanced.

dude.. search.. hate to be a dick, but i've answered this question several times this year on this site.

get with B at jeep thrills abou thte gears. if your not up to doing the install. but take in your bare housing and let them do it. it will be cheaper in the log run. because to do the gears you gotta take the hubs off, pull the spindle, pull shafts.. etc. take in just the housing wiht no shafts in it and it will be cheaper. Mike or darrel would do the install and i trust both of those guys completely.

We're trying to help you here so don't take this the wrong way. In this thread you have refered to the sound as a tick, as a knock, and a squeal.. Which is it? the squeal in the video sounded alike an auxilliary belt. and the generally when there is a knock only while accelerating under load its a rod. Lifter Tick is generally from a lifter, caused by lack of oil. wether that lack of oil is from a bad pump, poor oil, low level or oil pump.

throw it in your parts bin and answer no. i've taken dozens of parts and what not accross.. only once did i have an issue and had to pay tax. If its made in the states, you don't have to pay a terif, but you do have to pay sales tax. (due to the nafta)

no, not that rare. probably 19 spline. not strong. there were in many jeeps with dana 18 t case IIRC. is it a full floater? hard to get parts for it and aftermarket stuff is expensive.

thats what i'm saying. if it only does this UNDER LOAD it could be a rod. rev in park is not under load. look at the front of the damper, there are 6 bolts that holds the pully onto the damper. the timing marks are on this. the damper and pully are not keyed together, but the damper is keyed to the crank.

thats what i'm saying. if it only does this UNDER LOAD it could be a rod. rev in park is not under load. look at the front of the damper, there are 6 bolts that holds the pully onto the damper. the timing marks are on this. the damper and pully are not keyed together, but the damper is keyed to the crank.

if you rev it in park and it knocks.. very well could be a rod. engine no issues with no load and a ping / knock upon load. also. i doubt the rubber came loose. there are 6 small bolts on the front of the damper. If somebody changed the timing belt and don't know what they were doing, they probably pulled the pully and not the dampe first and when they put it back together they were miss aligned. it wouldnt run 100 deg out.