adamzan

Your ATF is burnt then.

Hey guys I am posting this for my dad. He has a 2000 pathy 3.3 5 speed. Has about 240k km's. He had all the timing belt stuff done last summer and just after that it started having a p0300 come up but only when it idles for more than 10 or 20 seconds and you can definitely feel that some thing isn't right. It seems to run fine other wise and has great power (well as much as the vg does at least). It has a new cap and rotor, new wires, plugs and air filter. It doesn't hesitate or stall at all on take of and starts up quick every time. The shop said they can't diagnose it all they get out of the ecu is codes p0300 and p0446 but they said the 446 is evap related. They think it could be clogged cats but he doesn't want to spend a grand on a set of cats unless that is for sure the problem. Thanks in advance.

Flowmaster 60 series sounds way better on these rigs.

Well I don't think he will have to worry about rust judging where he is from. As for reliability these things are amazing I hop in mine and drive it on 5 hour+ trips all the time without even thinking about it.

Sounds like something injector related. When was the last time a tune up was done though?

I can weld sheet metal pretty well now and would help you out if you were closer man.

You can just swap the r/p for the rear, I've done it on my pathy (already had 4.6's but no lsd). I am not sure if they changed anything from the 96-99 r50 as far as spline count goes but someone else will know. I have never touched the front so Idk

Do it so I can do mine lol.

how is it more work. if anything it is less because you don't have to source a light to put there. Although magregors truck has one that was swapped so im pretty sure it is pre wired.

Most SE or LE pathfinders came with footwell lighting btw. You can just grab them from the JY.

It is really hard to find someone to align these trucks properly. I've taken mine to 2 places so far. And they can do the toe fine but not the freaking camber. Next stop dealership.

Hey tmoore it looks like you could just stick your finger in your cv to put some grease on the steering stops lol.

I'm pretty sure its supposed to be at 750 rpm warmed up idle. At least that is what all mine idle at and I've never messed with them. It goes up like 100 rpm with the a/c initially then falls down back to normal

That I am not sure about. I recall when having mine aligned (at stock height at the time) that the camber on one side was completely out of whack but the guy never touched the tbars. He also said that my caster was out and that adjusting it would make my steering heavier. Maybe someone else will know the answer to your question.

That manager is an asshat. I would keep going back.

What they did was lower the tbars back to where they didn't have to add shims (or just adjusted the tbars till the camber lined up) You need to make sure there is a note for the mech. that says do not touch Torsion bars.

750

I believe 93+ has the tubular ones.

This is what I removed: 4wd hub snap ring upper ball joint tie rod end shock absorber. Be careful the cv at the diff is attached with 12 point bolts. That other stuff should come apart in minutes if everything isn't rusted together.

15 dollars from fleurys.

Yeah an 18,000 GVW should be sufficient.

Here is mine. Thank you to fleurys for making them!

I rattle canned my passenger front fender with matching spray paint. Then I sanded with 1200 grit and put like 4 coats of duplicolor clear coat on it. I still have to sand the clear a bit with 2000 grit but it is NOT bad at all for the time I put into it. Plus it matches the rest of the 15 year old paint.

Wow that is a small cooler!

You need an alignment if it did that.