adamzan

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23822&view=&hl=manuel%20trans&fromsearch=1 And I know this is for an r50 but it should be more or less the same. http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmission%20Conversion%20Manual_final.pdf

What I have done is gotten some of that rust converter from CT and it seems to have worked as my rear frame near the bumper is bad but it has not gotten worse over the winter. All you can do is just keep plating it eventually you'll have the old frame encased in new metal and you'll be good. I know its a bitch but they are too good of a truck to let die like that. X2

That's awesome. Sounds sick dude!

If you've got that much work into it I would keep it as they last forever and if you can keep ahead of the frame rust (keep the frame clean inside and spray with fluid film) you have a very very cheap vehicle to operate other than fuel. If you can keep the inside of the frame clean for the oil to reach you should be ok. I have considered filling mine with some moisture resistant foam but I am not sure yet.

So sometimes the truck takes like 8 turns of the engine to start. Usually when it does this is when it sits over night or when its warm. Also when it starts the idle kinda wavers back and forth a couple times then stabilizes. When you shut it off and leave it for like an hour and come back it will start up with less than one roll... It has all the tuneup stuff done, including fuel filter. It's been doing this for a while but its starting to get annoying. The ecu has no codes and the gas mileage is still good. I'm clueless.

So wheres the driving video.

Your starter is going out.

OMG that sounds awesome.

Both my 93 and other 95 have sunroofs and maplights.

I agree with all the above statements but have something to add. If you put it in drive, then quickly put it in reverse, does it engage? Mine started doing that a month after I bought the truck almost 3 years ago. I've put about 60k miles on it since then and after a flush, filter change and adding an external cooler AND filter it has seemed to get better. In mine if you get it to go in the first time it will engage 50 times after that. But if it doesn't engage at all it is usually cheaper to just get another known good tranny from another truck. The autos in these things are very strong just the stock cooler clogs and no fluid = boom.

It could only be one or the other kyle..

Wow that is low mileage for the first alternator. They usually last quite a while. Looks like she hasn't treated you bad at all!

What I wanna know is how the hell will you access that grease fitting once the new bj is in.

Forgive him he is slightly retarded.

Break the other two off or remove them, get a new ball joint and install. It will come with new bolts. I have only 3 on one side but it worries me daily.

If the relay clicked but jumping it with wire worked I would think your neutral safety switch is bad.

I use the Valvoline synthetic when I can as well. Other than that I use mobil1 or whatever the oil change place around the corner uses (during winter I'm lazy). 5w30 usually and sometimes 5w50 in the summer For filters I use OEM nissan, purolator, or a motomaster (store brand in canada).

Beck/Arnley usually makes pretty good stuff.

The Bosch ones suck. I would get a Nissan one if possible. I'm on my 2nd Bosch one after the first one failed while I was far from home and running rich all the way home killed my cat as well.

He doesn't drive a TBI pathfinder.

Check your maf sensor wiring. Like wiggle it while the truck is idling funny and see if it helps. I had this problem.

That right there is bull@!*%. Fram filters are crap. The best filter for the wd21 is the oem Nissan filter. When I switched my wd21 to synthetic 2 weeks after I bought it the difference was immediate. It ran smoother and the lifters never tick. Also I regularly get 20mpg+ on the highway. Another member here who lives near me experienced the same thing when he switched. Also with the fram filters they have ****** cardboard end caps that are glued on. Yeah I'm not spinning that onto the side of my engine. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html#fram

I would start on a Saturday. Give yourself a few hours just in case you run into seized bolts or something.

This should help you out with the wiring: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1638.html

Actually to do the ball joints you don't have to touch the half shaft at all there is more than enough room to get them out. For the bearings, I just did my drivers side after thinking it was gone (turned out to be tires) and it is very easy to do. I would inspect/clean them and if they are good repack and re install. To install the new race evenly I took the old one and put it on top and tapped evenly all around. If you remove the inner bearing you need to remove the grease seal and like it says in this how-to, get a new one. I was gonna re use the old one but they are cheap so just buy a new one.