adamzan

When I installed my seal I used my old bearing race but that's because I changed the bearings. Try to find something round like that and tap it in slowly and evenly. As for the calipers I think that brake fluid changes as preventative maintenance would help. Like I said the bearing locknut should be just tight enough that the bearing doesn't have any play. When you put the tire on, see if you can move the tire in and out with your hands at 9 and 3. It's easier to check for play with the tire on. Once you do this whole job once you'll see it isn't that hard. I've done it enough times now that I can do the brakes and outer bearing repack in about 1.5 hours.

My crank pulley has 4 notches and 15 is right in the middle.

Not always. A timing belt is a maintenance item and my parts guy can get one for 15 bucks but Nissan wanted 50....

Clean the bearing with paper towel as best you can, then put a blob of grease into your hand. Then push the bearing into it repeatedly until you see the new grease coming out the other side. You can also buy bearing packer tools but I am cheap and this works perfect. Also clean all the old grease out of the hub and put new stuff in. Put a thin bit of grease on the spindle and the threads for the lock nut. When you tighten the lock nut make sure you turn the hub a few times to seat the bearing. Do not over tighten the lock nut or you will burnout the bearings. It should be just tight enough so that there is no play in the bearing. You can put the tire on so you can check for play easier. According to the fsm there should be 0mm end play.

For me it depends what I'm buying. I usually go to the parts store and get moog for suspension parts, buy once and free for life. Like stated above, with ebay you have to be careful and read the whole product description and look carefully at the pics. I've only had one issue on ebay, and it was with those aftermarket headlights for the pathfinders. 3 months after I bought them one filled with moisture. Of course, the guy told me tough luck I must have broken it installing them. What do you expect when you pay 70 bucks for a set of cheap plastic headlights. Timing belt stuff, I got from Nissan because I was scared that the cheapo belt wouldn't last the full 168,000kms.

It looks fine the way it is, you don't need leveling spacers. Pathfinders come from the factory higher in the back, it's for handling purposes.

I just used wheel bearing grease from the parts store its fine. If it's dark brown I would say to change it. If the seal looks good then I guess you could leave the inner bearing for now but definitely repack the outer, you have it out, you may as well. Especially if you've wheeled it in mud/water or have gotten stuck in water.

I pulled apart my parts pig one and the clips were pretty tough. I painted the surround white like jpawela did I should put some pics up.

Nope, wasn't me, I still have the original starter. I do remember the post you are talking about though B. Maybe someone can be a guinea pig and try it. If I had to buy a new starter I would probably go with Bosch, beck arnley, remy, or acdelco. All availible on rock auto and at most parts stores. At least here they are. 4x4pathy94 has been through 5 reman starters in the time I've known him and 4 of those were from napa. They were the napa "supreme" starter as well. The one he has now is from a company called visteon or something but it seems to be holding up alright.

Also while you are in there I would recommend re packing the inner and outer bearings. To do the inner you will need to remove and replace the grease seal. I would get new ones (one seal each side). When I did this on my truck the original seals looked like complete @!*% and water/mud and stuff was most likely getting in. The new seal is like 10 dollars and well worth it.

I usually help a few people out during the winter and they always seem so shocked when I don't want anything in return.

We should go and beat the 8,200 out of the kid. Just kidding. Hopefully it works out for you bro.

Yeah it should unless the stud is frozen to the hub inside the shaft too.

you could do that or just cut the head off with a grinder.

I had this happen and I found that if I hammered a 1/4 inch allen key (slightly bigger than 6mm) in it jammed in there well enough to break the bolt free.

You can buy that whole part (that welds to the frame) from nissan. I wonder how much one is...

Depending what you want to do with the truck. If you plan on lifting/wheeling I would get some rancho, pro comp or bilstein shocks in extended length. If you just want stock replacements for the street the KYB gr-2 is a good choice. The Monroe sensatrac is ok but if you go off road or tow much they won't last long.

Does anyone know what size those thermostat bolts happen to be? I kinda screwed one up when I did mine and need to get another one.

If it is shifting that badly you should be able to feel any play in the rear links by hand.

It pains me to see it like that bro, you've put a lot of time into it. What matters most is that you're ok. That kid will get what is coming to him. What I would do for now is put one of the front tires on the back and the spare on the front that way it won't mess up your rear diff.

I got stuck last winter, and another member here ruined his trailer hitch pulling me out. I was trying to move and I noticed that my temp gauge had almost gone all the way to the top, maybe a 1/4 inch away from it. This is what happens when you bury the front end in snow! Suffice to say I don't like snow wheeling, cause you can't see whats underneath.

when i did my tbelt i didn't do the tstat cause i thought waterpump and tbelt were all i needed and guess what that winter i had no heat and there i was doing the tstat in -20 weather.

Depends where you live dude....

From my experience a 170 was more than sufficient here in Ottawa ontario (The store only had that for a wd for some reason). But I don't live in Alberta so Idk what it's like there. Also just using the 50/50 mix is perfect for these trucks it seems. I have awesome heat in the winter and it never overheats in the summer. Make sure your fan clutch isn't staying on and not letting the truck warm up. Also you can block off part of the rad with a piece of cardboard and that will help it stay warmer.

Mine goes lower a bit too when sitting in traffic. I think my fan clutch is starting to bind as as soon as the traffic frees up it sounds like a bus for the first bit. Never used to do that at this time of year.