adamzan

Did you get the antenna adapter cable? Mine grounds through that to turn the deck on. For the amps you should be able to use the amp turn on wire from the deck and there should be a wire in the adapter harness for it to signal the amps to turn on.

Sounds like the motor is worn out. The same thing happened to me. You can take it apart and clean it and it will work for another little while but eventually will have to be replaced. Just do it before it fails in the middle of the winter like it did for me

I got the poly ones from a member on here and they were very easy to install. Getting the old ones out sucked but the new ones with some grease and a vice slid right in . It made the truck feel tight again.

Crawl under your truck and take a look? It will be pretty obvious. I used a screwdriver and a hammer to remove the inner ones. It's easy.

I just did the transmission side joint on my 95, and wow did it ever make a difference, the truck feels a lot smoother now. When I pulled the shaft I checked both and the one at the rear end felt fine (no play and no binding) but the one at the tranny was a bit stiff on one axis. I just used 2 sockets and some blocks of wood with a hammer in my driveway and had it done in an hour. No dry cups for me which is good. I don't know if these joints were original or not because they had a screw plug where a grease fitting would go but I didn't see that in any of B's pics. But they may well be original since grimgreg says they have a plug. 350,000kms or 216k miles out of the oem parts, not too bad. I only hope the acdelco replacements I used last 1/4 of that! I'll post up my pictures when I get a chance.

Looks like you need a new Y pipe. Also might have to replace that midpipe too depending on flange condition.

If the fender is that bad it might be faster/easier/cheaper to just replace the whole fender rather than spending hours working on it. New fenders aren't too expensive.

Just put a new universal joint in. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

The only time I think you would really notice when driving is on a hot day with the air on and the truck sounds like a bus, with the efan it wouldn't drag in that scenario.

re index torsion bars replace egr or bpt valve replace a/c compressor with quiet one replace drivers door, hood, and tailgate with rust free ones (have them already) install headers (sitting in garage) new tires take it back to the glass shop because the windshield leaks change lifters remove AT from parts truck and tear apart fix rust under rear seats and rear quarters figure out what to coat frame with new center link install idler arm brace (have already) alignment paint trim replace rear bumper (again) with spare or build custom sliders skid plates winch lower control arm bushings install volt meter and new trans temp gauge install oil filter relocation kit replace heater core and possibly radiator if funds allow change universal joints change rear upper link bushings change pinion seal full fluid flush figure out what im going to do to utilize the arb mounts that attach to the factory bumper spot Wow that is a long list. There is probably more too.

Try tightening the screws a bit to see if that stops it. If not you'll have to replace the gaskets, they're not very expensive and shouldn't be too difficult on the vg30I.

You know that is funny, when I bought my second wd21 in mid 2007 (previous one was given to me), it had a perfect frame. I kid you not there was not one hole or soft spot in it. I must have washed it at least once a week in the winter spraying out the frame and stuff. Ask pezzy she will tell you because I was whining about my doors freezing shut lol. Anyways, 4 years later I have patched the bottom from the spring perch on the drivers side to the bumper, the inside beside the perch all the way to the lower link mount on the passenger side, the part the rear tires cover on both sides, where the swaybar link mounts all the way to the perch on the drivers side, and a 6 inch section from the panhard back on the passenger side (obviously). It is good and solid now but I was kinda disappointed that my many dollars spent in fluid film and pay n spray car washes didn't pay off. On the other hand, some people, including nige, have said mine isn't nearly as bad as theirs, so maybe it did help a little.

Well that didn't take long, I'm pretty sure the compressor @!*% the bed today. It makes a loud groaning noise and really labors the truck when it turns on. I got out and looked at it and it smelled like burning...something!

Swaybar links wouldn't really cause a wobble, they would just allow a lot of body roll to happen.

Sounds like you have play in the front end that when the hubs were lock it was keeping the front end running true. I had this problem once and it turned out to be loose wheel bearings.

Don't listen to him he has no real experience with the 3.5l (I don't have much either, but I'm not spouting off). I would say it would be a sweet project if you got 25 more ft-lb out of it, that's worth it IMO

I have driven all three as well, wd21 and r50 mostly (i've also driven the 3.3 and 3.5 variant of the r50), and an r51 a few times. The r51 definitly had the smoothest ride but then again it was the newest. I found the 3.5 r50 to seem a little faster than the r51 but maybe thats just because the r51 is a lot bigger. I thought the handling was best in the r50 because of the monoframe. The wd handles well stock as well and the adjustable suspension on the sport package made it very nice to drive. I get comments on how well my lifted wd21 drives for what I've done to it. I liked how roomy the r51 was though, not nearly as narrow as the older models which is kinda nice for a bigger person like me.

Looks like your front swaybar links are worn, they are only like 8 bucks a link and take about 20 minutes to replace.

When you post, click the media button (it is the one in the same row with the smiley button, it has 3 little boxes as its symbol), post the youtube link in box that appears and click insert.

You need to adjust the drums, I had the same problem after bleeding my brakes, adjusting the parking brake cable doesn't affect how close the shoe is to the drum. Like nunya said there is a rubber plug covering a slot on the backing plate and you can use a screwdriver or a special tool to adjust it. What I did was adjust it untill I felt slight drag on the drum and backed it off one click.

I know slick has been running 10 wides for a long time but I have heard that it puts more stress on the wheel bearings, but then again they are extremely tough on these vehicles. I say try them on and see if you like them, and if not swap them to your other wheels.

No kyle, it isn't. Sucks about the pathy but glad you're ok.

Time to get another pathy

You guys better settle down before the man in pink (nunya) comes in here to clean up.

You took a dodge stratus to the track ahahahahhahaahah