adamzan

I've taken a couple of pathy gas tanks out and in both cases there was no "crap" in the bottom of the tank. I'm starting to think it is one of those automotive myths.

On my 95 there wasn't much done by the PO. But my 94 that I have now, the guy told me he had the manifold studs fixed at a shop. I looked and I can see bolts in there instead of studs, and some of them I don't see the grade stamped like you do with metric bolts but rather the three lines which indicate a grade 5 standard size bolt They also welded the rear bumper brackets to the frame because of the body lift, and poorly installed a 7 way trailer harness.

Sounds like your DRL module is taking a crap. It's a common problem, the solder joints crack.

How was it? I'm going to have to do the same thing soon, I've done regular drum brakes before but these look more complicated.

Actual metal patch? Or cheap bondo "rust out in one snow fall" repair lol.

They actually are very well supported, MY1PATH got rear ended in the corner where the carrier is and it sent a blazer to the wreckers while his truck had minor damage. I've installed a carrier on a non carrier truck, and the supports (that I got from nissan) were very beefy.

Grease the steering stoppers on the control arms.

These trucks are old, and some of had quite a few owners. While mine shuts straight, I'm sure over the years people have backed into things with the carrier causing it to bend.

I agree, mine is leaking at the flange right before the o2 sensor and it runs OK, but I can tell it isn't right and the gas mileage is reduced.

Or no oil.

Oem nissan shocks are made by KYB, and most last well over 200,000kms so I don't think they used the cheapest.

Did you put the timing belt on too tight? I know it can make a nasty whining noise.

I agree, your timing cover is completely sealed. Mine was mudded like that and there was nothing under the timing covers when I took them off recently.

There are 3 part sources local to me and the people that work there are decent but they never have any parts in stock for the wd21...There is a place here called CAPS and they have everything and if they don't they can get it in an hour or at the latest the next morning. I find the CTC in smaller areas (brockville, kemptville) are terrible especially with non domestic parts since most of the workers there are hicks who don't give a crap.

I think that is actually what you are supposed to do. Get everything set in and then tighten it down to spec. The smoke is the 2 dollar rattle can paint pacesetter uses burning off.

Look on your drivers door jamb it will say the month and year it was made.

It won't make any difference on yours. The manual hub swap is for r50s that have full time drive flanges so their cv axles are always spinning.

What kind of exhaust are you looking for? Stock replacement? You can get a new muffler/tailpipe assembly at crappy tire for 160 dollars. If you want something more free flowing you'll have to go custom but it's nothing a good exhaust shop couldn't do.

Agree with Simon 100% as well. All the stabilizer does take a lot of the feedback out of the steering wheel and keep it from wandering as much on rutted roads. I have driven my pathy with and without a damper, on and offroad. It sure feels nicer with the damper but my @!*% still wore out fast from wheeling.

1. You're probably right, I would check the ones that support the muffler as they have broken on me twice over the years. Replacements are only about 5 dollars last time I checked. 2. There is a small fuel hose that connects the 2 fuel rails you can see it behind the distributor cap. Mine was leaking a bit and I could smell gas. It's a 4" (roughly) piece of hose. 3. Could be the T-belt is a little too tight. I've been told that there is a break in period for the belt although I never noticed it on my rig. What you can do is take off all the accessory belts (one at a time) until the whining stops. Is it like a whirring kind of whine? 4. Mine used to do this too and it was intake boot that had small little cracks in it.

You know what works better is replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Then you won't have a "tired" ignition system. It's maintenance.

Check to make sure the drain hose isn't clogged, you can see it on the passenger side of the firewall.

I am 95% sure that the long ones are the starter bolts, but it has been a while since I've been in there.

Wrong. Mine was made in japan.

I've got one of those! Number 76 of 300 There was also a Warren Miller edition. Came with ski racks and stuff.