adamzan

Those scratches are from running wipers that are broken or so worn that the metal parts start scraping against the windshield. My old truck had them and I could never remove them until I changed the glass

If you can't find a 24mm, a 15/16" wrench is the same, and what I used. If you take the tires back tell them you want them balanced to zero. Sometimes they need more weights and the tech just gets it "close enough"..

You could always make a line yourself. IIRC it uses the same fittings the brake lines do, and you can buy bulk line for cheap. It is easy to bend by hand.

I would love to take a trip up there sometime. Yea emissions tests here are ridiculous. The shop doesn't make any money off of the test so they try and fail you so they can get you to approve repairs you don't need just to make more money.

I just sold the rig recently to a buddy of mine who is going to use it for a plow truck/wagon hauler on his farm. The body was getting a little too nasty for me but the transmission still worked great. The truck has around 425,000kms on it. Original tranny AFAIK, bought the truck with 180,000km ish.

I agree, the wheels have more offset than the factory wheels which puts more strain on the system and exacerbates any issues that could be there. I had a hard time keeping the idler arm tight on my old wd21 and that seemed to cause it to wobble/shake unless you were on the most perfect of roads.

over 2k seems kinda high to me. All the ones I've seen usually start at 1500 and drop from there.

According to rockauto they are the same from 93-2000. The older ones had square teeth but the 93+ are round.

60 dollars for a rear main seal? Ouch, I only paid 40 or so and that was in canada (where everything is generally more pricey). It also came with the seal retainer gasket.

How many km's are on your engine now? My old 95 had over 400k on it and it never leaked. The new to me 94 I just bought, the PO had changed it when he replaced the transmission, though the seal was not leaking at the time. 30k later and it started to leak (it was an aftermarket seal, but I think it was installation error). I just had it replaced by a friend of a member here, we didn't have to fully remove the tranny, they just pulled it back enough to get the flywheel off. Personally I say if its not leaking leave it. But if you do decide to change it, I would use a nissan part and follow the instructions in the FSM to the letter.

Those torque converter bolts are a pain in the ass, and they are on there REALLY tight! FYI the crankshaft bolt socket size is a 27mm or 1 1/16" I believe. Good luck. There is also a plate that bolts to the engine block that kinda centers the starter. If you take that off it gives you a bigger area to access the TC bolts.

Someone had installed a ball joint on my old 95 like that. Only on one side so it sat lower on that side.

You're a baby.

How about no.

I did eventually get this fixed. It started just after I had my windshield replaced, turns out where the side trim bolts on, the little plastic threads that snap into the body were loose. Water gone in behind there and it ran down the pillar and I guess hit a connection point somewhere. Anyway I brought it back to the place and they put new clips in with sealant and it never happened again.

My old 93 had the rear side and hatch windows tinted but none of the doors. I think your rear window has been changed dude. But I miss my XE's non-factory tinted glass, so much easier to match.

If it was built in mass, it definitely wasn't packie88's truck. He lived in WA. Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

I run amsoil synthetic ATF and the transmission shifts great.

The G-power ones are just platinum. I've run both, they perform the same but the G ones last longer.

My dad has 2012 xterra, and while it doesn't have that many miles on it yet, we've noticed the construction, especially interior is not as good as the older ones. It does have a lot of power though, but I find the leaf sprung rear end will hop around a lot on the highway. It gets marginally better mileage than my wd21. Traction control is annoying as you can't shut it off unless you're in 4lo. Though this might not be an issue if its just a DD.

Tungsten your alignment is not right. Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

I did it to my old pf and it did nothing, don't plan on doing it to my current one.

I think it is under the dash, like look above the brake pedal, mine has these 2 connectors, one is for the abs the other for the ecu. They just kinda hang there.

That is a PITA! I hope you've got a couple of strong friends, or a deep wallet if you're paying to have it swapped. I got quotes to have my RMS replaced, and it was like a grand just for the labor. I ended up having a member here and his mechanic do it for me while I watched/assisted. Honestly I didn't think the job was too bad but this was on a hoist, with a trans jack, and every tool you could ever need. Btw, when you have the trans out, change the rear main seal. But use a nissan one only and make sure to follow the instructions for installing it.

I leave my automatic charger set on 2 amp, and if I put it on at say noon, it will say full charge the next morning. Takes a while. I was always told that it is better to trickle charge a battery than just boost the car and let the alternator do it.