adamzan

Sounds like you either need new plug wires, or if they are new they are defective. But glad it's fixed.

Buy a new distributor.

If the bearings look good, there is no need to replace them. Just inspect, and repack them with fresh grease. Properly maintained roller bearings will go a LONG time.

Well that makes a lot of sense, why didn't I think of that lol. Now IMO buying a new stock part is the absolute right way to do this. I can't really wait the week it will take to get from the online dealer, or the 4 days my local dealer seems to take to get parts. JY might be an option if not rusted too much (doubtful up here). I had a gift card to a local store so today I went out and bought a flaring tool. Yay new tools! Also picked up some unions, flare nuts, and lines. NEVER! Yea stainless is out of my price range lol. I ended up getting the kind with some green corrosion proof coating on them. They look like stock lines. I bought lots of line I'm going to practice flaring (its a PITA but I've got a few nice ones). I think I'm going to try flaring the stock line and using a union to join the two, and if I can't get a good flare on the existing line I'll do what ahardbody suggested and use my tube bender to recreate the stock line with the coils. Good thing I already had the bender.

I'm doing some front end repairs/mods to the truck (new UCA's, cvs and ball joints [for who's curious]), and we broke the front drivers hardline. Now I noticed that the brake lines are coiled, what purpose does this serve? I'm sure it is there for a reason, otherwise I would just replace the whole section of line from the master to the flex hose with some universal brake line. So far I think my options are: 1. Buy a new line from Nissan - probably most expensive and I'd have to wait a few days. 2. Replace with line from the parts store - will eliminate the coiled part of the line, which is obviously there for a reason. 3. Splice in a piece of line with a union below the coils and run it to the flex hose - I think this would be the easiest way, not sure if it is the "right" way though. Would love to hear your input on this.

Another thing to try, will it start in Neutral?

Autozone and napa both list a torque converter: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dacco-Transmission-Torque-Converter/1994-Nissan-Datsun-Pathfinder-4WD/_/N-j0puhZ6o2ll?itemIdentifier=263436_408242_0_ http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Torque-Converter/_/R-PMTDA36_0227528486 Hope this helps somewhat.

Even more nuts is the price difference between the canadian napa and the us one. The same thing happened to me, I emailed them pictures, they responded the next day saying "a new one is on the way, feel free to dispose of that one" I was able to fix the broken one eventually, so I have a spare now.

Forgot how much napa cost. I got mine on rock auto for about 80 shipped to me. Brand new not a re-built one either.

Sweet!

New rear brakes and shocks installed tonight.

You need to hold the black cap thing on the outside of the window from spinning, then use a 10mm wrench and it should unscrew from it. Mine were tight also.

You may be able to see more of the flywheel if you remove the starter bracket that mounts to the block. Its only 2 bolts so not hard.

Check your vacuum hoses as well. A leak can cause a high idle.

If it isn't the hoses, it could very well be the o-ring on the top of the tank that seals the sending unit. Just another thought.

No offense but to anyone complaining about the filter placement, I can name several that have way worse filter placements. My old grand am was 10 times worse, the pathfinder one isn't really bad at all.

It was the exact same size as the one in my truck. The dimensions are the exact same. I know they say 15 gallons/57 liters but I'm pretty sure they are mis-labled

If the tank leaks just buy another one, those patch things never seem to last. I got a tank on rockauto for around 100 bucks...And it even came with new screws and a seal for the sending unit.

I'm sorry to say, but if you didn't pull the windshield to fix a leak up there, if there is rust, it will get worse under the seal and silicone. I know it sounds like a pain in the but and expensive (its not actually) but it is the only way to do it right.

I only had to replace my starter because I freaking dropped it when I removed the tranny for the RMS replacement, and screwed it up. The truck was on a lift so it was quite the drop. It's not hard at all with a body lift!

Darn. Removing the timing belt completely slipped my mind!

You're pretty much there. Now you just have to remove the head bolts. Do you have the service manual? There is a link in the garage. No you do not have to remove the engine.

Actually the later models come shorter like that. My 95 had the short tube and my 94 has the long one like my old 93 did.

Does your hood wobble at speed or when you hit bumps?

Mine does this too, but it isn't the handbrake sensor, and it also gets slightly brighter when you press the actual brakes.