MikeV

I think it has to do with the clockwise/counter-clockwise toilet flush theorum. -alcohol-

Wow< I thought mine was bad! Hit a pothole on friday and it broke the frame above the passenger side rear axle. I have about as much usable metal as yours :sniff:

No immobilizer anywhere in the manual, battery is toast?

Not available for my 95, damn!

Got it!

My throwout is new and it whines a little also, Get a louder exhaust and you won't hear it!

Thats the Pathy Joy, I might pay a little more in gas, but hardly ever need to work on it.

It's easier to pound the dents out of sheetmetal (joke)

I'm in WI, 45 minutes North of Commieland (AKA Flatlands or Illinois) Just south of Milwaukee. LAND of Salted, Salted, and Oversalted roads. We are the reason the Great Lakes will be the Great Salty Lakes. Ready to try to get stuck in the Mud or whatever we may have to drive over.

I know my 95 is rusty framed (only behind the rear wheels) where the WI-sconsin Winter Super Salted roads ate at my frame. Recently lifted it and noticed it was only behind the tires as the car wash wouldn't hit those spots. But it is an excuse to get a welder!!!! Mechanically I love it, as it starts every day and runs fine!

Thanks for the heads up! Just tore mine a few days ago, and since I have 225,000 miles on them I will look into replacements.

In the process of doing mine also; damn salt!

Took me a minute on the sheep comment!? Hey Matt is that a SCION Van in your avatar?

Will definately take your advice, going after work to take a look at the local shop. Thanks Again. Mike

Looking at getting this welder this afternoon from home depot Lincoln Electric Weld Pak 3200HD Wire Feed Welder http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US...dgnl.0&MID=9876 Sorry for the long linkie want to get this welded before the salt is spread on the roads!

I just lifted my Pathy and while "operating" I noticed what 250,000 miles of Wisconsin salted roads had rusted long holes in my frame(above rear axle that was behind wheels). I have read and searched the forum, but not much actual info on repairing. I glanced at the few frames at the local junkyards and they were MUCH worse. And retiring my beast before half a million miles is not an option! :Magic: I am going to weld the rusted frame as it is in a few spots I am going to purchase a new welder (figure I would spend more having someone else do it (and I have welded my 70 & 71 240Z's front ends together and that "uni-frame" was the thickness of a pepsi can)). I have por-15 and am cleaning the inside of the frame with air(120-150psi) and an air fitting with 3 feet of bendable copper tubing(think liposuction vacuum) :oops: I am running it in the inside to get rid of the pounds of rust, sand, mud... Questions I have: :confused: 1. I am wanting to treat the interior of the frame with rust treatment. (if I flood it with por-15 it will cost a bajillion) I am using por-15 on the external parts of the frame) any other treatment recommendations would be appreciated. Note: I need to weld plating over the existing metal 2. looking at buying a new welder, $400-$600 range, 120v, optional gas, wire fed. Just wondering what everyone uses? (I love this excuse to get a new welder!!! :cool2: 3. Any don't forget to's would be awesome (as in take the gas tank off...!) I will be documenting and posting pics soon. Thanks Again!

As 88 asked earlier "On Which side is your steering wheel?" -bounce-

I finished the rear suspension upgrades (3" lift and rancho 9000's) I am now ready to order UCA's RC more than likely; but I am also ordering replacement rancho 9000's for the front. My torsion bars are like new, I just won't crank them any higher until I get the UCA's (2.5" now) I searched and got a ton of info but; should I order the longer rancho 9000's as I am lifting 3"? Would a rancho steering stabilizer help the steering drift? If not what about the L&P Level 3 steering upgrade? (with bronze bushings) Just want to get ready for winter wheeling in the Northwoods! 88 how do you like your L&P and how do I find my proper taper to order? Sorry for the barrage of questions, but I want to order right the 1st time! Thanks Again & Again! Mike :bow:

Just did a 3" suspension lift and the sound is "gone" It's a total different ride with the quiet cab and rancho 9000's and 3" lift springs from 4x4parts.com. :cool2: I would recommend the flowmaster 50 (2.5") and the highflow cat for sure. Just following up; my rear spring sag kept the exhaust much closer to the ground and much louder echo off the pavement. Love it now, not loud inside at all. Thanks again guys(and gal!) Mike

I was kind of thinking something was up when I called them. Just ordered from 4x4 parts.com 3 inch lift springs with Rancho RS9000X shocks After you(88) said you get asked if something is wrong with your truck from the whoosh whoosh sound. I can imagine my Ol' Lady asking that about 15,000 times. are you sure there is nothing wrong with it? :furious: I was searching for JGC's but all I could find were fronts with 5 coils and from the write up's I have read they should be to be 9. So no dice there. I have your writeup on changing to JGC and Ford springs, but what is the track bar? I searched and could not find anything or should the coils go in okay. having a shop put them in. also the front is just stock springs and shocks. reindexed of course! I will replace the front asap. Do you think I will have any issues with the difference. Drives strait with the front up 3", logging roads and flooded trails are all I go thru (with trailer) so rear is sagging bad. so hopefully all will be well Thanks! Mike

called calmini, if I buy the rear springs and shocks(3" lift) I was told I will have to fab a brakeline mount and trackbar? any one have any pics of these so I know what I am up against in the fab dept. Not sure what the trackbar is? :confused: Thanks Mike

I'm in need of a a quick replacement for my rear suspension, sagging and looks like a 4-runner looking at Calmini's with the 3" lift NP12631 and was wondering if the 5116's would be the proper spring to use. Junk Yards around here charge $25 each fo JGC springs, So I'm buying new. I live in Wisconsin and can't find calmini anywhere, their website sucks and doesn't do anything but give me a pic and model #. If this combo sounds good where can I get it? I need to have them ASAP as I head north with ATV next weekend and don't want to bottom out the entire way. :help:

Do they make subs for treble? I'm going to aim it down as yesterday on the way home I was in the middle lane and it was quieter, My exhaust comes out at the back and is pointed toward the divider wall of the freeway, so hopefully it is just bouncing off the wall? If that doesn't work I'll get those bose headphones that cut out backround noise! Helicopter headset maybe? I'll let ya know! Thanks Again! MV

No K&N yet, still stock as I would drown a K&N with water and mud, I have the same exhaust set-up as yours skilla, and all my soundproofing is gone as I cut the rusted underseat metal out and replaced it. I am going to replace the insulation and see if it helps. Just gets nerve racking after a few hours of driving, it is also at 2500 rpm not 3500 as I previously posted. Thanks!!

Had a descent shop do it, no leaks as I crawled under yesterday to check; up to about 3500-3750 rpm she is nice sounding then when I get on the Freeway and hit 65 and over in 5th it gets LOUD. And driving slower is not an option Would extending the tailpipe or aiming it directly behind instead of toward the drivers side quiet her. Thanks!!!