5523Pathfinder

Im so there Jim! From Lacey/Olympia, you bet. If the meeting starts out small and gets bigger every year, that would be cool! It would be nice to drive up that way, being I never have a reason to. Good Idea! August would be good...

Do not touch any of the little adjustment screws on the throttle body! If you do, you may off set the throttle plate and cause damage. You do not want to buy a new one! Hows that for advice?

What fluid was installed with the new pinion? 80-90 gl5 if its lsd. Ive heard some very interesting noises from just the wrong fluid.

Heres a little part help with some help from skrillaguerilla. These are factory part numbers, but you dont need to use them if you chose! "Hey D, i was just at Paul Coffey Nissan this morning and picked up a bunch of parts for the timing belt replacement. The parts guy actually gave me a nice 20% discount of all these prices Here is the list for you to post in your awesome timing belt thread: I just picked up most of the parts to do this job. These are all parts and dealership list prices for the VG30E. I'm assuming they are the same parts for the VG30I as well. -All prices are in Canadian dollars- 13028-0B785 - Timing Belt $53.85 13070-42L00 - Tensioner $82.42 13042-D0101 - Cam Seal $11.35/ea 21010-12G28 - Water Pump $94.99 21200-0B000 - Thermostat $25.23 The one part I need a number for is the coolant hose that runs from the water pump to the radiator. If anyone know the # please post it for myself and the other people planning to do this job. " Remember, if you replace the cam seals, you will need two of them. Also there is the crank seal. I will try and get the part numbers and post them when I get a chance.

There is a difference in the boots, physically. Also, they usually have a different kind of grease in the inner joint. Ive rebuilt mine, Ive rebuilt others several times. If you can get the boot kits cheap enough and do the work yourself, you save a ton of money. If you want to clean dirt and debris out, usually some clean rags will do most of the work. I have used a parts wash machine to clean the joint a time or two. You may be able to use brake clean or some degreaser in a bucket. Just remember bare metal does not like water and oxygen for too long(Rust). The other choice is you can get a remanufactured axle assembly for under $100. Check the local parts house. And they sometimes warranty them!

Well, heres my take... Thermal wax/element? Im guessing the TPS, usually need to be adjusted, sometimes replaced. Can effect shifting among other things. Tires? Look at your tires. If you need them replaced, shop around. And actually the dealers are trying to be competitive so, make them work for it. Vavle cover leaking oil..easy fix. Get a long phillips screwdriver and tighten the screws! They love to back off and leak. Clean and go! Drive Belts are easy to do yourself. The price is about right for the dealer. CV boots, if thats what they are charging for the parts and labor, its not a bad deal. Rear main seal...I would crawl under and look to see how bad its leaking. Sometimes it may not be the rear main. It may be the oil pan rear seal leaking. Make sure if you have it done, go look at the leak once they have it apart! The rest is basic service work. If you havent had any of those fluids changed, its a good idea. The oil flush, I would ask exactly what they do. Some are a poor in and then change the oil. Others are a machine you hook up to the engine and it pumps a chemical through the engine. The one we use at my work actually does a really good job of cleaning varnish and carbon. It backflushes the oil pickup to clean the screen and get sucked out of the drain hole. Oh, and some guys just dont want to do the exhaust manifold. Its actually not a very hard job, just takes time and a lot of patience! Hope this helps!

It was a TSB to extend the warranty coverage to 10 years, 100k miles. yeah, Superson, your out, sorry! Time for headers!

Upon leaving my old job on Friday, I inquired about a web discount for NPORA members. I was told that the deal all web customers get is cost+24%. Thats not too bad. As a employee there, I got cost+15%. Now, I was told anyone who was interested in a group purchase, they can get a even better discount. I wasnt told exactly what kind of discount, but I was told near cost. So, if you need dealer parts you can go here... www.nissanparts.cc If my new work has a better deal for internet customers, I will post it. Oh, and mention that Derek sent you there!

Getting into a Pathy or Hardbody is a piece of cake. I have a generic slim jim bent in like a J. Slide it down and pull up. I did it front of a customer one time. Took me 10 seconds. His jaw hit the floor.

See.....

Well, I think the best advice here is to get underneath it and do some inspecting. A whining noise could come from just about anywhere. My first guess is brakes. Either peek through the wheels and look at your brake pads, or remove the wheel and do the same. If the noise only happens when you are moving, then its a rotating issue. Try to be a little more specific with where the noise is coming from. I know it can be tough, but it helps us help you! As for performance, well, there are a few intake options. Exhaust, you are on your own, no bolt ons. You can always get a recalibrated computer. Do some searching in the R50 thread. You should be fine pulling a mustang. Heck, I saw a R50 the other day pulling a lifted Wrangler! Oh, and a regular tune up may be in order.

If anyone has any questions about this procedure, feel free to PM me. If anyone has additional photos or tips, let me or RedPath88 know to post them and keep the thread clean. Thanks!

All 3.3's should have the belt changed at 100,000 miles as far as I know. I will double check tomorrow. But if they say to change it at 60,000, then do it so it dont break!

Look behind the left rear tire. Use a good flashlight.

I hope you read the timing belt write up in the How-To section. Yes, TDC is the very left mark on the crank pulley. The dimples dont line exactly up perfect, actually off about a 1/2 tooth. Thats why its noted to mark the side of your new belt to help line everything up.

Double check all of the hoses back at the canister. The vacuum cut valve is white with four ports on it. There is also a vacuum cut solenoid, make sure its plugged in. Probably a cracked line or port. Small evap leak I believe is a P0440.

Yep, there is a light behind the control panel. You will need to remove the trim around the contols and radio. Then, of you have manual contols, remove the blcke switch pulls by pulling them straight out. Pop the panel off and you should gain access to the bulb. You may need to remove the screws and loosen the assembly for better access. On my '95, my bulbs not replaceable. I have to replace the whole unit. Luckily, its cheap.

First of all, double check your owners manual for what nissan recommends. As a dealer employee, what nissan recommends and what we do, during a service, can vary. We charge a flat fee of between two services. Our basic service is $399. Most of that is draining and filling the main fluids(Oil, Coolant, Trans fluid). Then it includes the following.. Rotate tires Replace Air and Fuel filters(if applicable) Clean, adjust, inspect & service brakes New wiper blades Toe Alignment & lube chassis, door hinges and completely inspect the vehicle for any needed repairs. There is a Preminum service that includes everthing above, but, inclues fluid flushes instead of drain and fills. Also get a oil system flush, Intake Induction service and brake fluid flush. This service is $699. We dont change spark plugs in a regular service anymore due to most of the new cars dont need them till 100,000 miles(and some are a b@#ch to do). We also throw in free roadside assistance with the Premium service. Everthing else is broken down into smaller services due to longer service intervals. Now there is always the exception of the person who beats thier vehicle a little harder, more maintence may be needed. Wow, I sound like my boss after all of that!

Fluid after....

Fluid before....

Thought I would post this for everyone to check out using this tread. This is the machine that I use at my work. We hook it inline of one cooler hose. Old fluid pushes into machine and new fluid goes in. Has automatic bypass, so its pretty hard to mess up. For some, its the best $149 ever spent. The vehicle I flushed was a 97 Pathfinder with 249,500 miles on it. You get to see the fluid before and after. It shifted so nice afterward!

The motor attaches to the regulator by a square "gear". The regulator cable winds around the reguator side. My bet is the cable is chewed up from wear or the white plastic elbows at top or bottom of the regulator is broken.

This post will not help you at all. I have been wondering the same thing for myself. I used a aluminum flywheel in my 300zx and made a world of difference. I have heard though, on the trails you car really overwork a clutch with that flywheel. I have no idea if thats true, but someone with more info will ring in. I might be able to check the fidanza part number on monday through my work.

Some of us with body lifts could use lots of things, like.... Front bumper brackets as mentioned above E-Brake drop brakets Rear bumper relocation brackets for those without the extra holes Misc brakets for relocating the P/S pump and Fuel filter Others.... Decent, cheap, billet battery holddown I like the billet shift knob ideas (that would just look cool) Im sure I could come up with more, just not right now.

How about some progress pics? And one of the fat lip!