5523Pathfinder

If you crank the t-bars too much, you may have problems with the cv's or boots. I lowered mine about 1 inch and quit having issues.

Look at the second page of the second TSB posted. It says to check the "Room Lamp" fuse....

Ok, so maybe you want to add the factory VSS to your 87-90 pathfinder. This is the installation TSB. It does not give the exact part numbers used for every component. I would use the parts list from above. Or, if you know a older Nissan parts guy who can remember that stuff, they should be able to help you figure it all out.

Sorry, what I meant was they will remove and reinstall a new programming chip that is soldered into the board.

It would have to be a whole new unit. Our ECUs are not reprogrammable/reflashable. Well, at the the WD21 model anyway. Im sure its similar to J/W, removed yours, send it in, they programm it and send it back.

Glad I can hep out, again. No sweat off my back. There was one other TSB that had how to add all this stuff to the 87-90 Pathfinders that didnt come with it. I wasnt sure if anyone would want that though.

here you go!!! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry338813

Next to help you diagnois common problems.... And some hard to find part numbers....

Ok everyone, there has been a lot of trouble figuring out and repairing your Vehicle Security Systems(or Keyless entry). I copied some TSB's that are a little hard to find. Hopefully this will help as there are wiring diagrams, component locations, wiring colors and even a few replacement part numbers. This stuff is not printed in the Service Manual! Hope this helps.

If it isnt found, I will print it off later today and copy it onto my computer at home, then post it up.

The wiring diagram and wire colors are in a TSB. The number is NTB93-036. I know its not much help, but you may be able to find it.

Well, its a possibility. I would believe that he would also have several other issues, like low on power and smoking badly. I would recommend to check the oil level for the heck of it. Im still thinking a PCV issue.

You might want to check your PCV valve to see if its stuck open. Also, there is a spark arrestor in the pcv tubes across the front of the engine that can clog or deteriorate. Easy checks really. Just pull the hoses off and check in the tube with a flashlight. The PCV will need to be removed and give it a shake and good visual inspection. There is a possibility of something worse going on, but go with the easy, most common stuff first.

You can alway pull the pan and see what kind of debris is in the pan, if any. I have flushed several high mileage, burnt fluid, poor shifting transmissions with no problems(mostly Nissan). Now thats not to say something could happen, every unit is different. But if you pull the pan and identify any issues, then you can put it back together, with a new gasket, and fill it as needed. If all is good, call around and find out what kind of machine some facilities use. Do some quick homework and make a choice. Ive used BG and Snap-on machines, and each worked very well. Know that flushing the trans will not get the transfer case fluid out. That, you will need to drain and fill seperatly. And getting that trans cooler installed would benefit you as well!

I cut the pinch seam to lay flat then installed buytle(sp) tape to prevent movement ,chaffing and leakage.

I just installed my CB also. Go to my members page and I took pics of the install. Hopefully that will help. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry334422

Yes, there are some options out there. Do some searching here as its been talked about alot. Also see the memebers pages as some are installed on some peoples rigs. I know you can get one version from Stillen. I installed it on my brothers 99 QX4.

Another thing that we do here at Infiniti, and we also did at Nissan, is that we perform engine flushes. We do this with a machine that uses a mineral oil based cleaning solution(actually not sure what is all in the fluid, bear with me), that is pumped backwards through the engine(backflush). I was a skeptical of this unit I performed it on my old 1981 Cadillac Coupe Deville. That engine had nearly 100,000 miles on it and it ran kind of goofy. I had tried the transmission fluid cleaning trick with little results. On a whim, I hooked up the machine and flushed the engine. New oil was added(non-synthetic, IIRC) and I was amazed how much better it ran. It had much smoother idleing and accleration(well, as good as it could get for a 8-6-4 engine) and no longer smoked out the tailpipe. After 3000 miles I changed the oil and it was a light brownish color, not black. The oil stayed like that until I sold it about a year later. Just thought I would share as I was sold on that thing from that moment on.

So why use a additive with the synthetic oil? Mobil 1 is one of the best synthetic oils that is out there and they have there own additives already installed. We used several additives at my old Nissan dealership and I found no evidence that what we put in helped, or hurt anything. I was taught, and I believe in strongly, that you need to keep your vehicle well maintained to achieve higher mileage. Thats not to say something wont fail along the way. I think you are just wasting money which, at this day and time, is what I would rather have more of right now. Now, if you are bad about maintaining your vehicle normally, maybe a additive will help keep you on the road longer, but maybe not.

That Recall is explained here... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...;hl=fuel+filler

Here is what it looks like in the manual...... Yeah, they were there.

Look to see if the dimple is on the crank sproket itself. You can make a mark there. Now this is why I like to use a factory belt. Use the white lines on the belt to align the marks. You can see how I did it in the later steps. You can move the crank a little, just dont force it.

Correct! The speedo does get its input from the speedo sensor. The ABS uses sensors and tone rings to know how fast each wheel is moving and that output is sent to the control unit to activate the ABS, hence the light. I should of stated it better

Maybe they damaged a sensor when removing the old axles. Need those to know how fast you are going. Take it back!

Sounds like the regulators are done. See if you can pull up on the glass. If you can lift up the window, its time for regulators. I believe all of the regulators have been updated but, all things wear out. Oh, dont be afraid to introduce yourself to everyone in the New members thread!