5523Pathfinder

Congrats! Im a former UTI graduate myself(aug '96). I went to the Phoenix campus and I had a blast. I went in barley knowing anything about cars. Now, Im a Infiniti/Nissan master tech. Now, when they tell you you dont need to study much, dont listen. Study hard and take it seriously. Its hard to not get caught up with people partying and stuff, but this is your future. Its not high school anymore. As for meeting up, some were talking about that in the NW section, but, I think interest died. But, hey, who knows. Good Luck!! Derek

I vote for locker. Best bang for buck is the locker. With the winch, you are going to need a mounting system of some type(bumper or custom), it will make your front end a bit heavier(possible more steering issues, dont quote me on this), you may need to modify it if you run a body lift or wanna SAS. Next to my tires, my locker has been one of the best investments I have made on my rig. I run a Lockrite, but a Air Locker is still a good choice as you can unlock it when driving on pavement, lock it in when off road. My Lockrite ratches and pops from time to time, but I chaulk that up to personality(It doesnt bother me at all). Ultimately, its your choice. I would look through the member pages and see what others have done. Derek Here is my first video. A few minutes in, I go up a trail and a Jeep then follows me. I have locker, he does not.

The old Nissan Motorsports catalogs used to list different speedo sensor gears that you could swap out to help correct your speedo. Now, this was several years ago at best, and I have been searching for an old catalog, but its been tough. yes, you could remove the tailhousing on the transfer case and removed the drive gear on the output shaft and reinstall it as well, if they are different. Not tough, just more work.

yes, they should swap easily. To be 100% sure, you can count the teeth on the gear and see if it matches. If it doesnt, just swap the gears. They way it "bolts up" shoudl be the same.

The mast has a plastic cable inside of it to raise and lower the antenna. That cable can break, causing the antenna to not go all the way down, or not all the way up. Removed the nut at the bottom of the antenna and turn our radio on. This will push the antenna up and you can remove it and inspect. If there is a piece broken, you may need to remove the antenna motor and remove the nut on the back of it. This will allow you to remove the broken piece. Reinstall the motor. You will need to get a new mast, then you can feed it back into the motor buy turning off your radio. Push down and you may have to move the cable around until the teeth grab and it pulls the antenna in.

I bought my 93 harbody for $2000. It was a 4cyl, 5 speed, King Cab with no options. Good deal IMHO.

I have a buddy that is going through the same thing right now. His 2000 Frontier was hit by a guy who lost a wheel and tire off of his boat trailer. The wheel came across the median on I-5 and hit my buddies truck right smack in the front. The insurance company of the guy at fault is trying to only give him $2300 for his rig. I told him, and others told me, to get prices on replacing your rig with the same model. Add up all the stuff you have put on your rig, and present them with reciepts if you have them (Obviously, if you say you had a Mona Lisa in the back, they are not going to believe you without proof.). If you are going to keep your rig, well, the overall amount you get might be less. Thats what I know. Derek

Just got done searching and got 8 pages of info just by searching LOCKER. That doesnt include the writeup in the garage section how-to's. Yes, I will admit that our search function is a little goofy, but you got to at least try a few times. I do no mean to come off mean, but you will find more information searching sometimes than what you will get in one thread. Lots of infor from people who dont currently post.

Sorry, not trying to be difficult. I have a rear Lockrite locker and have answered a lot of questions concerning handling, tire wear and overal driveablity. Im not trying to be difficult. I will even search LOCKER and see what I find. I will post what I find....

Yep, typically both the outers snap. The problem is that one typically doesnt snap until ou try and take it off. Fun times.

I wasnt trying to be rude B. Just stating the obvious and cutting to the jib!

Lockers in general have been discussed in great detail including pros and cons. Use the serch function and see what you find. Get back if you have any questions after that.

Read this.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19755 I would try reprogramming your fob. Also, make sure no door switches, hatch switch or hood switch is disabled or broken.

When you change your oil, pick up a few cans of brake & parts cleaner. After you change your oil, clean that whole area really with the cleaner. I do this to mine and any of my customers. You could also poke the filter with a screwdriver first before you take it off. This will allow the oil to drain out and less with drop onto your starter. Check your valve cover screws and make sure they are tight. Oil will leak from the back of the cover and leak down near your starter.

Its even easier you pull the cable from your transfer case, put the end in a electric drill and give it a spin, just not too fast. Have someone else see if the gauge moves.

Is your rig a automatic or stick? If its a stick, try smacking the interlock relay next to the battery while trying to start it. If its a auto, there is a wiring fix for your starter that, I think, is in the how to section. Or just search for it...

Hey, I never said it was going to be a easy job. You tackled your timing belt pretty well, you can do this. Yeah, the higher price for the parts suck, but, you dont want to do this twice. The nuts and washers you have missing, are probably the broken ones(lemme guess, the very forward and very rearward). Hope you got good and long drill bits. If not, your tally is going to go up. Call your local machine shop. They cant charge you more than $50 to machine the manifold(our place here local is $35). Good luck and keep us updated(you do a great job doing so!!)!!

Unless you have it protected, you let all the factory smoke out. Its a nasty beotch to get it back in too.

There is a topic pinned in the garage section you should read... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711

Clean out the plug hole and make sure nothing is by the plug. Spray some lubricant(PB Blaster-rust penetrant), down onto the plug and let soak. No need to get carried away, but dont spray too little. Try and loosen and then tighten the plug to let the penetrant do its work. Then try and remove. When you put new plugs in, put some anitsieze on the threads to keep a frozen plug from happening again.

Hmm, maybe the tension was set incorrectly. Gonna need to hear it. I would recommend taking a long screwdriver, and using it as a stethascope to listen around your engine. Just put the end of the handle in you ear and touch components and see if you can trace the noise to its loudest point. Be careful around moving parts. Can you feel the noise with your hand on the distributor cap?

The pulley and damper are bolter together. Once sperated, its a beotch getting it correct again. The damper is keyed to the crank snout, so no changing that. Did you have the belt changed recently?

Take a video or two and let us hear it. Maybe timimg belt loose?

Well, the first thing to always to is to check for leaks. I recommend doing this with it not running. Inspect everything from the injectors and everything all the way bacjk to the fuel pump assemlby. Maybe you have a exhaust leak and on startup ou get the smell, but Im leaning to a small leak somewhere. Oh, keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

Just noticed last night a customer in a Hardbody pickup, with Isuzu P'up wheels on it.