KovemaN

I was able to get a wrench on there. The torque measurement would have to come from the head side unless you use a crow's foot on the nut side. Not sure how that would throw off the torque reading though. I hate to say it, but a lot of mechanics give up on the torque wrench unless you're working on engine components.

I ran 3+3=33" for a long time on my '91. The only time I ever had an issue was when I lost some alignment shims up front.

I cut the bolts off, bought new ones and installed them in the proper direction.

I used a '95 high line on my '91, but I had to modify the fittings.

Try finding M18x1.25 reverse thread. I'd be better off shopping for unicorn teeth.

Late to the party, but the 12x1.25 is in a few places on the WD21. Lugs, front tow mounts, rear body mounts and t-bar adjusting bolts. It might even be the same thread as the UCA bolts, but I'm not sure about that.

Awesome. That's a hell of a list to burn through.

The rear shocks should be longer and it would also help to remove the rear sway-bar. Removing the front bar just makes it wobbly and the travel doesn't ever go beyond stock in the front with IFS.

Shocks should be identical as well. Frame to LCA measurements are the same for D21 and WD21. There isn't really a "Lift" shock for the front end on either one. The overall travel doesn't change. The rear is where you can really get the "flex" after you remove the sway bar.

Ralph stole mine from my D21 and then decided to SAS.

They are identical.

My $10k figure was $2k for the truck and $8k to have it built properly by someone else like TME.

I always expected $10k to be a reasonable price point for something to be built to spec. Otherwise, go buy something you may not like.

http://cad.timken.com/item/all-product-types/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-28644 I think it's just a catalog number for Timken. I didn't see any dimensional correlations.

Quick follow up: Dead/No pressure: Vacuum, wait (a couple of hours), confirm vacuum, charge on the LOW side with the recommended amount of refrigerant. (A flush is recommended if replacing a component). Some pressure and unknown leak: Pressurize on the low side. Find a chart for pressure vs/temp and fill to correct pressure based on temp. Use dye only if you know you have a leak and know what to look for. Don't use sealant or most shops won't touch it. If you did use sealant, don't tell them.

If you know a chick named "The Beast", you should get on that!

So there are at least three on here that are called "Beast". I've never changed a given name for a truck, but I'm considering it now.

I've had the axles for a few years. Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but this heavy stuff is best kept local. No ad out and I wasn't actively trying to sell the stuff, but it's time. My project isn't happening.

No existing plans. Nothing has been posted. Just sold my 5.13 H233b gears.

I've got two d44 low pinion axles here in AZ. Both are Waggy's. One is a bare housing with chromo shafts, 3.73+ carrier, lock-rite and nothing else. The other is a cleaned axle that hasn't been opened, but has discs, calipers and hubs. I also have some 6-lug Chevy take-off hubs with rotors that are practically brand new along with some flat top knuckles (not machined).

I believe my bearing races were LM67010. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36792-broken-compression-rod/?p=697589

http://s730.photobucket.com/user/koveman/library/Compression%20Rod

It looks like a mount for an alarm siren.