Tungsten

Can you give me some more details on that? Which part is it close to? That just might be it. I found out that it's not spark knock because I can hear the normal concessional spark knock come in on top of that sound. Can you give me more details on that? The sound also comes and goes and does get obnoxious under load. It's not rod knock or a stud tick because those can get loud and you always hear them and I heard those before and will definitely say that isn't the right sound.

Check that mount by the muffler. If the muffler is placed too tight against the hanger then you will have to lower the hanger to release some tension.

It should be somewhere between 1/2 and 1/4 way on the gauge. That would be considered normal.

You can also try one of these: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/steering-enhancement-package-p-2578.html

This is what I mean. You see how the mount goes around the round bracket? The hardbody I looked at had the mounts just perfectly straight.

Which one? I know many screw driver tricks.

I give up, I tried near everything. Double checked to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. Nothing ticks or clicks revving in neutral at all. I can rev all the way up to 6500 rpm and hit the rev limiter and nothing. My timing was set to perfect 15 BTDC by the marks and the balancer pulley is now in the correct position. Timing can't be off and I'm getting 20+ mpg on every fill. Barely audible when driving and it really comes on when the engine gets into peak load like going up a hill. I'm leaning toward worn injectors again. I still didn't try replacing the EGR valve but that seems to operate decently. It's a little rusty so it squeaks going up and down sometimes but other than that everything seems perfect. It's a stupid sound that I can't even catch in a video. I would say it's more of a fast clicking noise than spark knock too. It does not change frequency with RPM either. Just no idea...

1987

Does your frame have those round things sticking out on the sides? Or can you just slide a flat plate in there to use as a mount? I am now thinking the hardbody D21 trucks have the same style mounts as the 2 door WD21s.

That is really weird... Maybe it worked because you have a body lift? As far as I know both bumper styles will work on matching style pathfinder mounts or matching style hardbody mounts. If you have a bumper that has the mounts welded in then the mounts will not swap directly for obvious reasons.

Just a heads up that Hardbody D21 and Pathfinder WD21 front bumper mounts will not interchange. I tried to install a D21 tube bumper on my WD21 today and realized that the mounts would not bolt up. The Pathfinder has extruded bottom mounts while Hardbody mounts are straight and flat in the bottom section. Hardbody and Pathfinder mounts are also differently spaced from each other because the D21 bumper mounts would physically not line up with the holes. I was quoted $400 to fab new mounts to fit my Pathfinder so I backed out and scrapped the bumper for some cash. The bumper wasn't exactly in the best condition and it would not be cost or space efficient for me to lug around a 60 lb piece of metal even if I was to sell it. Pathfinder mount, old style: Hardbody mount, old style: Pathfinder mount, new style: Hardbody mount, new style:

excellent write up that cam looks scary

You can swap the cluster directly but have fun with the wiring.

Something seems to be killing your oxygen sensors?

A VG34 would require a complete rebuild of the VG33 enigne. The VG33 method is definitely more economical. You can do the timing belt with the engine out though!

yay spare parts

Was just implying that if you were to pick between hacking up a WD22 or a WD21 first you should go with the WD22. They could both use improvement to make them more off-road worthy though. SAS FTW!

Or you could just fix it.

I guess not engaging the front drive axle does keep those CV shafts from breaking if you go hard on it. It does pretty well in the sand for being only RWD. You have the LSD rear axle right? That should help you to keep moving on low traction surfaces like snow and sand.

The factory running gear setup in the WD21 is a whole lot better than in the WD22! Just something to keep in mind.

I am thinking it's an idle air control valve (IACV) issue or a throttle position sensor (TPS).

Just forget the heat shields and throw them away. I would replace the felt underneath the carpeting though. Try drying the old one out first. Maybe you can still use it?

The most fun is trying to route it around the gas tank and between the gas tank and the frame rail. It took me 3 tries to get that one right.

Ok now that you cleared that up... Are you really swapping VG33E over a VG30E then? If so you don't even need to swap anything else other than the accessories and the water pump. I would recommend using the VG30E cams over the VG33E cams for more power. The ECU you can leave alone.

No you don't.