Tungsten

Cool! My shop also recommended Gates belts so I think I might go with that. I had Dayco belts before and liked how they sank into the pulleys but don't mind trying Gates. I had great luck with Gates cooling system hoses too.

I will vouch for the VR38DETT as well. Stock N/A VQ35DEs will grenade with as little as 4 psi of boost. If you want performance, you have to actually take the engine apart and re-engineer it with beefier rods, a beefier crank, etc. The engine was designed for 250 hp from factory and that's it. That was done to make the rotating mass as low as possible for the factory power output for maximum efficiency. The VQ35DE has about the same power as the VG30DETT but only in factory form. The VG block itself can push up to 60 psi of boost! Anyway back to hopping up the VQ, you can't do much with bolt-ons except add a oily cone filter, which may kill the MAF sensor, and add a cat back exhaust. The headers are not available for the engine not because of clearance issues but because of the emissions crap like catalytic converters.

That's really good for a stock motor but you need gas. What size tires are you running?

I have no idea how you test the TBI sensors, only did MPFI sensors before. However not being able to rev past 3000 rpm is a common sign of MAF sensor failure. You can get the codes from the ECU to be sure. Check the HowTo section of this forum for more info on how to get codes from the ECU.

That depends on how you hook it up. Most head units have both a line level output and a high level signal output. I think the adapter uses the line level output of the aftermarket deck rather than attenuate signals but I don't know for sure. To whoever wants to keep the factory speakers: I recommend getting some better speakers if you want better sound because that BOSE stuff is junk.

How long does that last for you? All the A/C belts have had an average life of 20,000 miles for me before they started to make noise or lose chunks. The other 2 belts seem to last a little longer than that.

I don't know but it looks like the rear tires are spinning faster.

x2 Run 14 gauge wiring to all the speakers and bypass factory wiring completely.

Mass Air Flow Sensor

Say what you want but I would NOT touch that VQ in any way. They are really cheesy built engines meant to go into beige crapmobiles. If you do mod it, you are playing with fire. None are available for Pathfinders.

It looks like my V-belts are showing their age again... So here is my question: Out of all the V-belts, which ones do you run and why? I ran Nissan (Bando), Gates, and Dayco belts so far and all of them seem to last about the same before they start to go bad or show signs of wear and tear. I need something that won't shred in the 5000-6000 rpm range.

I'll take your word for it, that makes sense. You will be eating through gallons of gas with massive power though! If that's not a concern then I do recommend getting larger tanks along with the larger pump.

Not much is available for the Pathfinder's VQ because it's as good as it gets. If you put any boost in it then it blows up.

Why does that look like it's in 2wd?

So does that thing measure in miles per gallon or gallons per mile?

He tried that and there seems to be voltage interference. I suggested that he disconnects the alternator and takes the voltages again. Apparently the extra voltage is only present when the engine is running.

If it has plenty of power at 9 PSI then you should just stay there. There will be less lag with less boost and the engine will be more reliable and you don't need to waste money on a new pump.

There is no reason why the problem should be worse with new wiring unless the new wiring sucks. There is most likely some kind of an electrical issue that's interfering with everything else.

I use the Z studs and no issues with them yet although I have heard of those getting broken as well.

Don't forget: -Drive shaft -Ball joints -Bushings -U joints -Output and input bearings

Basically what happens is the ECU has a ground leak monitor and it compensates the reading to all the sensors which is why you can still drive around with codes for so many sensors. Therefore I think there is a ground leak and possibly close to the fuel line clamp. Why not pull some fuses and test until the voltage in that area disappears? Then you can check the wiring diagram to see what the things are you can check in that chain.

pics plz

So I just realized how in hell is it reading -12v or 12v with another ground and I started to question that pin 17 myself and see if I have any voltage in it. I checked and there is not any voltage there. I am thinking his ECU is doing something funny or there is a short circuit somewhere in that wiring. Thing is you can actually reduce voltage to a circuit if you hook both positive and negative wires to voltage sources. Let me give you an example... Suppose you have a 12v fan. If you plug the positive end into +12v and the negative end into +5v then the +5v becomes -5v and the 5 subtracts from the 12 and you get a fan that only runs off +7v. This can be done to regulate the voltage to the fan and reduce noise. If you subtract more than 12v then the electric current will go the OTHER way and make the fan spin the other way or destroy it depending on how it is designed. I was thinking that if you have +12v to the sensor on one side and some other voltage on the other then you could regulate the voltage to the sensor. However that does not make sense because there is only one common ground that goes off the sensor. So by regulating voltage to the sensor you would also interfere with the signal sent from the sensor and throw off the ECU. So it is confirmed that the voltage regulator and heater for the MAF sensor is built into the sensor. As to why the pin 17 is not actually a ground I think there is a chip in the ECU that has to sense 0v on pin 17 vs 1.58v on pin 16 to ensure a correct reading and that the sensor DOES NOT have a short circuit in it or some other crap. Therefore, grounding B does absolutely nothing to the ECU but if something abnormal happened to the sensor the ECU will not pick that up and instead the fault will just blow the ECCS fuse.

Are you serious? Did you not see my previous posts? They are specifying that it is a ground circuit in the FSM! Nissan even released a harness that adds an additional ground to pin B. Here is a picture for you in case you missed it: LOOK AT IT CAREFULLY!!! Now as to why pin 17 has voltage I guess it all depends on how you measure it.

If it was something like that then I don't mind but getting a confusing bit of info on a very critical ECU component is worth posting about. Like you said, I hope this helps everyone else trying to figure out what's going on. The letters are MELTED into the sensor so there should be no reason why those connections should not match. It was definitely a typo on their part. Whoever -1ed this can go die in a hole.