Tungsten

nice trolling

Yes, M8 studs for the VG30E.

If you are reading 0.7v at the ECU pin 16 and 1.58v at the sensor on pin C then there is your problem.

it's kind of an error because they didn't flip the terminal label around but you can see why they could get away with it

As long as the fins aren't clogged on the outside and the coolant still flows well inside then I don't see a reason to buy a new one.

You bet!

I don't know why the temp on your truck rises so erratically. If I had to guess I would say it's running way too lean or the fan clutch is bad or maybe the cooling fins are clogged.

Just put in a 76.5 C (~170 F) thermostat from Nissan and now my temp is perfect even if the A/C is working. With a 180 F one, the needle would go into the middle and point straight up and sometimes go a hair over. So it looks like the factory temp one works better for my climate.

See this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31278

It's retarded, they clearly ask you to unplug and test the harness at the connector. Then they ask you to pull the boot and probe with the connector plugged into the MAF sensor. That's ok though, old Toyota manuals are even worse than this.

Yes but this manual will lead people to testing the wrong thing. It's psychologically misleading because how do you know what's A and what's C? Now if you look at the shape of the connector and how it plugs in this makes more sense: Here is what they mean by each graphic (note, I fixed the second one to match):

Possibly but that's just a layer of confusion then. At least they could have said c b a instead of a b c in the second diagram. Labeling both as a b c makes no sense what so ever. Also, you are testing for voltage in part A in the first diagram and THEN continuity in the following parts.

No, A is reference and C is signal. If you add an extra ground B at the MAF sensor you add an extra ground to pin 17 on the ECU at the same time. Pin 17 at the ECU is not exactly a ground but it works as one and sometimes doesn't if something is wrong or the wire is broken which causes funny MAF sensor issues.

They are labeled as A B C on the sensor.

No I'm not. The reference voltage is for pin A. Yes, definitely ground pin B.

Good thing I showed up here on time before this turned into a MAF sensor nightmare. Also, the reason why the reference voltage for pin A is taken from the battery is because the voltage regulator for the MAF sensor is on the MAF sensor board. These sensors are not like your ordinary 4 wire MAF sensors. EDIT: Clarification

After looking at some diagrams and testing procedures for the Mass Air Flow Sensor I have found an error in the FSM for the WD21. Here is the sensor: From the MAF sensor side, the layout is as follows: A pin = Reference voltage circuit, +12v or battery voltage to power the sensor (B/W wire on factory harness, goes to ECCS relay) B pin = Reference ground circuit (B wire on factory harness, goes to pin 17 on ECU) C pin = Input signal circuit (W wire on factory harness, goes to pin 16 on ECU) If you compare EC-84 with EC-133 the information does not match because C is the signal pin and not A. Note that they have not swapped the letters but flipped the view of the connector! The connector is in the correct orientation but the letters do not correspond to the other diagram. While the view of the connector is still correct, the wrong/new labels are very misleading. Now if you look at the shape of the connector and how it plugs in this makes more sense: Here is what they mean by each graphic (note, I fixed the second one to match): You can also see how the 2 important pin terminals that go to the ECU are gold plated.

It's a computer. Ever looked at your computer's power supply?

Once again, NO!!!!!! PIN 17 SHOULD READ -12v NOT +12v and that is a correct reading for the reference ground. Pin 16 however should read the same as Pin C on the sensor. Here is proof where Nissan screwed up: See this thread for explanation: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31278

WRONG!!!!! From the MAF sensor side, the layout is as follows: A pin = Reference voltage circuit, +12v or battery voltage to power the sensor (B/W wire on factory harness, goes to ECCS relay) B pin = Reference ground circuit (B wire on factory harness, goes to pin 17 on ECU) C pin = Input signal circuit (W wire on factory harness, goes to pin 16 on ECU) The MAF sensor wire shielding is also grounded. First, make sure voltage exists at pin A and it matches the battery voltage. Then check continuity between the B wire terminal and pin 17 on the ECU and then check for continuity between the C wire terminal and pin 16 on the ECU. There is an error in the FSM specifying to test terminal A voltage but you actually have to test terminal C voltage for signal. Check EC-133 and then check EC-84 and you will see why. The procedure on page EC-84 asks you to test pin terminal A when you should be testing pin terminal C. The signal at pin C should match to the table found on EC-133, which is less than 1.0v with ON and 1.5v to 2.0v with engine warmed up and running. The voltage at pin A should be battery voltage or +12v. Nissan has released an extra grounding harness for the B pin on the sensor, which shortens the path of the reference ground circuit. Sometimes the wires may be broken inside or at the connector from stress due to people failing to remove the connector prior to replacing the air filter. In that case you have to cut back around 3 inches on the harness and splice in a fresh connector. You can do what I did and splice in the grounding harness connector instead of just plugging it in.

You can go e-fan but I don't recommend it if you are using the stock alternator. Just get a fan clutch that works and that will be the best price to performance buy.

OK I found out why and apparently Nissan includes the year in the part numbers so the parts may be the same but the numbers aren't.

The tree won.

A component system is better for the following 3 reasons: 1. Component systems have better cross over systems. 2. Component systems allow you to aim the tweeters. 3. Component systems can usually handle more power.

Ok tried that and still nothing. I'm suspecting the EGR valve to be a problem now. I will get the timing reset back to 15 BTDC and play with the EGR valve. Anyone still care for pictures under the headers?