Tungsten

No.

These are custom ported Z31 heads from redz31.net. The Pathfinder uses the same design/style heads on its VG block too.

That's an exhaust manifold leak. Also, this engine is a SOHC not a DOHC. Source: http://redz31.net/pages/headwork.html

Yes, do it. I'm planning to spin mine around as well because for some reason my pulley is way off too. I tried to get away with it by starter bumping the engine to TDC and putting new marks with a highlighter but that didn't go too smooth and the timing was still off. I think all you have to do is remove the 6 bolts, loosen the belts, and rotate it.

That settles it then but I don't think WD21 blowers ever had that special cover. I can try cleaning the blower motor blades but I think the ticking is from the design of the motor itself.

No! Do not set your timing using a different cylinder. You can figure out where the marks should be and translate them to the new location with a nice yellow highlighter and a protractor. Or rotate the pulley around. Also, I had a running hot issue before and the solution was to just buy a new radiator.

Maybe... I know R50s do it too and they should have a filter but I'm not sure if the filter is before the blower or after the blower.

Was there ever a TSB issued to solve the ticking blower motor at lower speeds? Every Pathfinder I can remember had this issue.

The reason why those marks can be way off is because there is 6 different ways to attach the pulley to the harmonic balancer. I have no idea why people would separate them but it may happen during a timing belt change or factory error. The pulley completely separates from the balancer via 6 bolts by design for reasons specific to how Nissan does things. The balancer is keyed to the crankshaft so it can only be put on one way. To make this matter even more interesting, the balancer is not keyed at TDC. Also, if you ever pull that balancer off make sure that it did not slip and strip the crank key which can also throw off those marks. So you can either make new marks or loosen the bolts and rotate the pulley into proper position.

Yes I did and performed all the mode diagnostics. There were no malfunction codes, which is why it drove me nuts.

Just inspected it again and did not find it to be leaking. I did however found the Y pipe flange was still leaking so patched that up and everything is quieter now. The other noise I have is spark knock and I will see what a new MAF sensor does there.

Trying this first:

I have headers so I don't have either grounds. They didn't change anything for me. The real ground goes from the engine to the chassis directly to the negative battery post. The heat shield grounds are really useless just like those stupid heat shields that I like to just rip off and recycle for scrap. Not having heat shields on your exhaust manifolds will cause the studs to live longer without breaking in half.

Is there a specific reason why you want to do twin turbos? A single turbo can make you more power over a twin but the only advantage to twin is less lag. You can always trade the DETT turbos for a ET turbo.

That just might have been a coincidence but it doesn't bother me right now.

My EGR valve doesn't stick or leak. I can move the diaphragm up and down without issue and rev the engine when it's warm and feel it bounce. An interesting observation though is upon playing with the distributor and putting in 93 octane gas, the spark knock has got a little quieter and reduced the range of rpms it happens in. Another weird thing that happened after playing with the spark plug timing is the engine now runs much cooler, stays around the 1/4 mark on the highway, and I can actually drive the temperature all the way down to the C mark if I go fast enough. The thermostat isn't very old so I doubt it failed and the temperature goes back up fairly quickly when I slow down. The last thing I noticed is that the truck starts much nicer than it did before. There is no longer any detonation on start up. Here are my suspects which I am going to have to check now: 1. ECU for blown resistors 2. MAF sensor 3. Fuel injectors for flow rate 4. TPS (throttle position sensor) for dead spots or spikes 5. CAS (crank angle sensor) for rust 6. Head gaskets for breakage between the cylinder walls Is there a way to see the actual data from the ECU other than the blinking lights thing? I am losing my mind.

Ok, I am going to revive this thread now. The noise went away and came back and upon further investigation, it is not the fuel injectors either. It is not an exhaust leak and it is not a rod knock and that is confirmed. I rotated the distributor to 10 and 15 and everything in between. It really sounds like the ECU auto advances and over advances the timing. The engine spark knocks either because of the timing or because it is running super lean. I am thinking the ECU is blown now. Here are some of the things I have done: Timing Belt Full Tune Up with Plugs, Wires, Cap, and Rotor (all genuine Nissan) Headers with 300ZX turbo studs and Full Exhaust (leak tested) Coolant Temp Sensor replaced MAF sensor wiring fixed and MAF sensor cleaned Oxygen Sensor replaced BPT valve replaced Basically name it and I probably have changed it... I'm running out of ideas here.

No.

No! SEs have factory tinted quarters which make the white letters appear golden.

It's a good idea to change the oil in the transfer case and differentials every now and then. The fuel filter is most likely fine and if the injectors start failing you should get a check engine light code. If you have the clunking sound, it is from worn out U-joints.

1. First of all, check the transmission fluid. Nissan recommends to use Nissanmatic C transmission fluid to smooth out the shift. Since Nissanmatic C is no longer made, you can substitute that with the newer Nissanmatic D. 2. That is normal behavior, the transmission is geared to make sure that the engine stays in the peak torque band. 3. Have you done a tune up? Change the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and the air filter. 4. See 3.

Now you have to move the rear axle back. Every time you post a picture of your truck it's always higher by a few inches. Looks good though!

now get a relay harness to prevent another burnout