Tungsten

The filter stops garbage from traveling through the evaporator core. That's why they are placed BEFORE the evaporator core and on some cars before the blower motor. Something fell in there and punctured a hole in it. My A/C was leaking from the evaporator for that reason.

Did this happen right after you replaced the alternator? I ran my truck with the alternator disconnected before and it didn't do that. All it did was run with the Battery and A/T Oil Temp light on.

If that little thing is protected by the skid plate and you have an access hole in your skid plate for it then that's really handy.

the panhard bar is there to keep the axle from shifting sideways but if you run the panhard bar at an angle it becomes less effective than if it ran parallel (or close to parallel) to the axle

this is why you don't shop at crappy parts stores get one on rockauto and return that one for a refund

I really suggest installing a filter there if you don't have one. The WD21s don't even have that luxury and that filter would have saved me from having to replace the evaporator.

It all depends on how much you use the starter. If you drive on long trips it will obviously take more mileage for the starter to fail than if you drive on short trips. I think they have around 4000 usable cranks on average before the brushes wear out. That's if you consider driving about 50 miles after every start up and if it lasts about 200,000 miles before needing a rebuild.

Just don't knife the evaporator.

As far as I know they should all (all R50's) have them behind the glove box. Check again! If not, you can always install one and Nissan even tells you how.

Don't forget to change the cabin air filter! Chances are if your cowl is full of leaves then that filter is a brick too.

yep they can still break you have to upgrade the tensile strength and not the size

yeah nissan used some of the weakest fasteners possible in some areas exhaust studs could have been one of those but they were revised later on anyway

I would have to say that the 3M injector cleaner is probably what made it run good again. I used a toothbrush before and it worked fine. This is not the VQ engine, it can tolerate a little cleaning in the throttle body.

VG33E engines use 10mm studs instead of 8mm studs. He wanted to say that you could drill the heads out to fit 10mm studs instead. I think you can leave the heads alone and should be fine with 8mm studs or bolts, they were never an issue for me. The original studs probably broke because they weren't strong enough.

Check! Not a big deal to run overvolted as long as you don't pop all the lights on the dashboard. The ECU should internally regulate its own voltage too so it won't get hurt. You are less likely to melt any wires with higher voltage. I doubt the fusible link blew up. Drops in voltage will screw with the sensors, especially the MAF sensor.

If you want to spend the extra effort then that's fine but the best part about switching to the 90A one is that it's still an upgrade and a direct bolt on. Those extra 20A will make the difference if you convert to an e-fan.

They actually exist? Amazing.

^ The EXACT reason why I extracted one out of a actual Nissan. Genuine factory parts that come with the car are usually (but not always) the best. That was a 150k something miles Maxima and I took the alternator to a highly reputable re-builder. I put in a lot of effort to make sure that the part worked from the first try.

You will have to get someone to stand on that spring putting it back together. Or you can make a spring compressor with some bolts and plates.

Check the cable first, make sure the teeth aren't stripped.

You can use the same headers, you will just have to drill them out to 10mm because of the studs changeover.

No overheating for me. I was just trying to get some opinions.

Only the round dash pathy owners think like that... On the older models, the fuel gauge does not work unless the fuel pump is running or priming.