Tungsten

i would have to say B

alright cool, mine is yellow for some reason but this one is blue, i'm trying to figure out wtf was done there

it would be possible to buy a spare frame and slowly restore it while still having a daily driver

OK I just got the part from the dealership, it looks like this: Can someone verify that this is the correct part?

while you are at it, take a look at the tension rod bushings, make sure your lower control arms don't fall out

Up to about an inch of play is normal, don't play with it, MY1PATH is dead on right on this one.

I just want to replace that stupid accordion style pipe from the air box to the manifold. I think a trip to The Home Depot can do the trick. All I need is some aluminum piping and some fernco fittings.

There is nothing terrifying about driving that, its not like the frame is missing...

I don't know what you people are complaining about, that looks perfectly drivable to me. Just clean it up and weld in some plates and it should be fine.

Well Doc, you choose how you want to do it. Should you choose either option, we will be here to help.

zip ties

there is no A/C line going through there the two lines are removed in a pair FYI, lubricate your steering shaft joint, you won't regret doing that

There isn't much room for the T fitting, it would create an unwanted long metallic sausage that will get in the way everywhere. I think that the electronic probe gets a much better reading than the mechanical T fitting.

Ok for redundancy, here is another idea, instead of doing a T-fitting, why not insert the temperature probe into the dip stick location? I think Precise1 is just being paranoid about it. I never heard of the ECU failing to get the correct reading.

What is wrong with my method of doing it? Just tap into pin 15 on the AT computer with a AA battery gauge and there you go. I think I will go this route. DoctorBill: Your idea is not bad but the temperature probe may not be accurate in that location.

happened to me before, the drain is clogged

FYI, you can do an engine swap without dismantling the A/C system. Any specific info on the high side o-ring on the condenser fitting for the R12 system would be nice.

Get a WD21

an o2 sensor is bad

check the How-To section for a service manual

1. As adamzan stated, that reading is what triggers the light. 2. The reason they want you to pull the plug apart is so that you can connect leads to the female connector to measure the resistance. 3. Tapping a voltmeter into pin 12 should not affect ECU performance. 4. You can find an electrical meter from any AA battery testing device. http://www.amazon.com/Sinometer-BT558-Self-powered-Battery-Tester/dp/B00067V1TG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1278301115&sr=8-2 That will point to GOOD when cold and RE-CHARGE when hot.

If anything I would not do a T-fitting to tap into the transmission for the temperature. It just creates another point of failure. The factory service manual tells you that you can tap into the AT computer (behind the quarter panel on the right side I think) and check with a multimeter to get a temperature reading. It will be much easier to improvise a temperature checking system like this just by implementing a voltage or a resistance gauge and maybe changing the face of it.

Thanks tmoore4512 and the rest! I will be getting the R134a drier then. Does anyone have any info on that particular O-Ring on the early high pressure hose fittings at the condenser? It does look like a special one and I have not heard anything from the dealer. They still haven't got the O-Ring so nobody can tell me anything about the diameter or type of it. I heard if you take stuff apart and mess with the O-Rings its better to use the "green" ones to replace the "black" ones. Yes, the EPA sucks, and as for Al Gore, he has a new inconvenient truth.

X2 on the ignition coil

I just posted this in another thread but here it goes: Just a quick word of warning, watch that pipe bend around the transmission cross member support. I had to trim mine as it caused the pipe to bang on it repeatedly and it made me think the headers were hitting the frame somewhere. It also triggered the knock sensor and robbed all my power.