Tungsten

Sometimes the pump would whine for a few seconds when the steering gets tough but for the most part like 99% of the time I don't even hear it.

lower mpgs

so what was the problem? care to share? lol

*cough* rice *cough*

I have this really weird problem on cold starts and only while the engine is cold. Just before the temperature gauge reaches the C mark, if I rev the engine slightly or try to take off in D, the engine bogs down a little bit just before it revs back up. The problem instantly goes away after the truck warms up. Also, for some strange reason, the truck doesn't do this if the fan clutch is locked up while the truck is warming up. It only happens if the fan clutch gets free-wheeling on a cold start. I am still trying to figure out what is wrong here. Maybe it could be this way because the exhaust system is flowing better (or worse lol). Or the timing being off during start-up? I replaced the coolant temp sensor and the O2 sensor. I did a complete tune-up with new wires, spark plugs, cap, and rotor. Also, I fixed the MAF sensor wiring. I found out that when the engine is cold, the O2 sensor output is ignored. So I guess the O2 sensor kicks in and solves the incorrect mixture problem. What can cause the incorrect mixture? Is there anything else I can try?

I can't decide which is better; that Audi or the Z.

No one ever needs more than 1 cat.

That is a bunch of bull@!*% but then again I do have a 91 when the emission standards were more generous.

Yes I read the How-to on that. The bumpers are stuck to the carrier when you remove it I was just wondering if its worth replacing them.

I am replacing my tire carrier bushings because I am tired of the rattling noise in the back. I already got 4 bushings and 2 pins and was wondering if there was anything else I had to get before starting this job. Should I get the bumpers too (part 57284 and 57214E) or is that not necessary? Thanks

Fill up, note the amount of gallons filled, reset trip odometer, when you get to empty again fill up and see how much gallons it takes to fill and compare that to the trip odometer. I get around 19-20 mpg with variable driving using this calculation.

If you can tell me the group size then that would pretty much say everything. The battery I posted is $180 at Sears.

Meineke sucks indeed Rear engine seal is a good idea though but forget the flywheel I would say it is around 5 hours of work, not 10

Your problem is caused by the poor grounding to the ECU and MAF sensor. The problem is fixed by adding a sub harness to the MAF sensor, which adds a new ground path. You should check out my MAF wiring thread here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26778 This post here is the answer to the problem: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26778&view=findpost&p=505236 The way I see it is that the sub harness not only adds a ground to the MAF sensor, it also adds a new ground to the ECU. I think the problem here is that the ECU has a poor ground connection through the body to the battery which causes a voltage drop and this sub harness actually fixes that. Run the ground wire directly to the negative terminal on the battery for best results.

There are two separate alert systems: 1. Door chime to remind you that your lights are on and/or the keys are still in the ignition when the door is open 2. Seat belt reminder beep and light to tell you to put your seat belt on (pretty much just annoy you to hell)

The way I see it is that the sub harness not only adds a ground to the MAF sensor, it also adds a new ground to the ECU. I think the problem here is that the ECU has a poor ground connection through the body to the battery which causes a voltage drop and this sub harness actually fixes that. Run the ground wire directly to the negative terminal on the battery for best results.

Well I am tired of cleaning the every now and then corrosion from my battery and was thinking about upgrading to an AGM type battery. Does anyone know what the biggest size/type is of the battery that can fit into that location or box? Will this fit? It is a Group 65 DieHard Platinum, which is an AGM type battery with 930 CCAs.

OK, so I re-attached the MAF sub-harness back and grounded the MAF sensor straight to the negative terminal on the battery. Doing this resolved the intermittent flooding issue but the truck does seem to accelerate a tiny bit slower. Less fuel going to the engine?

the filter isn't sealing inside the box

No, the MT radiator does not have the two bottom fittings but it is the same radiator.

If you travel 16.9 mi 5 days a week then yes it is normal gas mileage. Do a tune-up if you want slightly better numbers. You can always start with a fresh air filter.

Yes, you can remove the lines from the bracket. It is a good idea to replace them both but I have only replaced one of them and left the old return line there.

It probably looked like that, which is the 89 part number. I think those sensors were updated. That is what the old one looks like. This is the later year part number but I think it can also be used with the VG30I. Note that it is equipped with a copper washer to provide a tight seal unlike the other two which require the use of thread sealant to prevent leaks.

After a closer inspection the problem seems to be a poor ground signal rather than a broken wire so it looks like I will have to re-install that sub-harness there but instead of grounding to the body I will ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Or should I run another ground to the ECU? I'm getting a complete loss of power followed by an engine flood when moving from a standstill; the engine bogs down and then springs back up and gets going like nothing happened. I think this is MAF related as I already replaced my coolant temp sensor.

That part fits fine but unfortunately did nothing for me. It runs just like it used to... Maybe ECU? MAF? On second thought, it did kind of help, sometimes the truck would surge for no reason but it isn't doing that anymore after I replaced this sensor.