Tungsten

lol i bet you get jump started daily thing is i don't want that big fat cable to yank out because if it does all the electricity will go through the MAF wiring

meh... I guess it works but I have a feeling that the cable can be yanked out from that clamp.

I guess I will just leave it like this:

Maybe so but I highly recommend getting factory mounting hardware as opposed to bolts. The factory studs have correct expansion/contraction coefficients ever since the revised studs came out so they are guaranteed not to break in the most PITA location ever. Initial post updated!

I picked up some vents on a visit to a scrap yard. Got extras in case I loose one again or if anyone else wants one.

I don't know about the pump, its not that old. What is even more weird is sometimes the pump would hiss like a cold air intake.

For best results, the shim on the negative side has to be lead.

So far my goal is to only replace that ribbed accordion pipe between the MAF sensor and the intake manifold because the OEM one likes to split apart for no reason. I just don't feel like paying ridiculous dollar for it.

FYI The 2010 Nissan Xterra, which is the redesigned version of our WD21, has the tweeters in the dashboard instead of on the pillars. Look right above the steering wheel...

Ok, I got a generic $3 lead clamp by Duralast. Looks like it should fit good and stay on better than the Nissan OEM one.

master cylinder, you need one

no Toyota for me ever

I have a cable cutter that can cut Master locks. Is there a particular recommendation on buying a special kind of clamp?

it's a common occurance that hose brakes from aging and any leaks after the MAF sensor are not tolerated

My battery terminals barely hold anymore due to wear and tear. I have to wedge them so they hold on to the battery. Does anyone know what would be a good replacement for them?

The battery fits fine, it is only a foot wide. However, I opted for group size 34 instead, which is a little narrower. It provides 880 CCA and same 135 minute RC. The stock specs on this truck call for a minimum of 700 CCA and a group size of 34 to fit perfectly into the box.

you can but lets just say you need an extreme body lift

OK so I got this battery and was wondering if the 70 Amp stock alternator will be able to fully charge this thing up. If not I could take it back and get something smaller.

One more question: Would the fernco fittings be able to withstand the motion between the factory airbox and the engine?

That would be awesome! Then I'm going to go with a high temp ceramic coating and some barb fittings for the small crap that comes into the pipe. It would also be helpful to know if anyone has had better luck with either a larger or a smaller diameter intake pipe as the diameter really makes a big difference.

It would help to know the actual factory sizes in case my measurements are not precise.

Can anyone please assist and tell me where the drain pipe is exactly?

nice pistol lol

I could not find any How-To's here on this but I would like to at least replace that silly accordion pipe to the airbox and have some questions. 1. What is the optimal diameter (ID - inner diameter) of the intake pipe between the MAF wire grid housing and the intake manifold? 2. What is the length between the MAF wire grid housing and the intake manifold? I can't think of anything else right now. Thanks! This looks like a good place to start: http://www.teamdelsol.com/technical/howto/coldAirIntake/default.html Here is what my bay looks like:

I got information on the O-ring; it is a regular O-ring that gets crushed into a cone when the fitting is put into the condenser.