Tungsten

I just had the corrosion cleaned out of the connector, the truck runs way better now.

I forgot to say this but if you have any exhaust leaks before the catalytic converter, you will smell rotten eggs as well.

you might also want to get a new manifold because chances are it is warped if the studs are cracked fyi, the heat shields on them are not necessary as the spark plugs are placed on the inside of the heads so you won't melt the wiring off without any heat shields

Let me go try right now I have the ones with the holes...

I don't need to "glue" per say but I do need to seal a leak up. I think this right here should work good: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1275922770&sr=8-1 and maybe this http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Black-Silicone-3-Ounce/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1275922770&sr=8-11 Thanks for help!

I'm about to redo my front windshield and I was just wondering if I can re-use one of these silicone sealers I have... 1. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-12PK-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B001REZA1W/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1275881674&sr=1-14 2. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22071-6PK-Thermostat-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B001REV86S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1275881749&sr=1-1 I like that idea because they are made to withstand high temperatures. Or should I get something else?

I don't know how the r50 ones work but can you cut the pins and drill them out?

use vg30e cams on a vg33e if you get a check engine light good luck

i'm in NJ and have no rust in the frame at all

i like my bronze nissan emblem

Torque on a VG30E is really something to ask for... lol

auto or manual?

I do not recommend using the sub-harness, whoever thought of that is on crack. Just fix the wiring and you will be set. Ever since I removed it, the truck runs much better. I get better fuel economy and better throttle response and my startup issue just went away like magic.

$150 for a dealer one

I would take the R50 over an F150 any day.

its either MAF or O2 but most likely O2 as the R50 has a good MAF harness or your cats could be clogged

Was there any real gain from his experience?

those old grilles look better but they are flimsy

actually if you put a new connector in there with fresh wires and just splice that to the harness it should work just fine if you check EC.pdf page 10 from the downloadable FSM, you will see that the ground goes to the ECU to avoid a voltage drop

well ill just take good care of it in fact i may redo the entire harness and run it seperately directly to the ECU and ground it straight to the negative terminal on the battery thanks for your input guys, i'm happy with the truck now it runs amazing and picks up faster and sips gas not guzzle it down if your truck hesitates and if you have that piece of @!*% sub harness, delete it and get new wiring to the MAF remember to always remove the connector when changing the air filter, you will be fine

get a new window

What?! I just removed the sub harness and connected the real connector and now I'm getting better results but will do some more driving today to see what changed. What is wrong with the MAF ground on the stock connector?

http://www.redz31.net/camgears/camgears.html Use it or loose it? Looks like a fun way to add 10 hp.

So is the MAF connector actually a 3-pin with a common ground? MAF connectors usually have 4 wires.

I have this awkwardly done MAF wiring. Its one of those angled connectors piggy backed onto another one with a ground coming off the one connected to the MAF. The ground is hooked up to the intake plenum. Is this some factory remedy? The extra ground goes here... Why?!