MaritimeMan

Ok, pulled it all apart today, rear, both sides. Interesting stuff. First the right side. Pulled the lower bolt, and couldn't for the life of me swing the caliper up. Had to get a 2' pry bar to get it off the pads, but once off, slide pins slid smoothly and freely. The outter pad was down to about 20% while the inner was around 50%. OK so that points to the slide pins not workin right. Pull the whole caliper off, then the rotor. It was blued on the inner ring where the e-brake engages. Checked the e-brake pads, no real signs of wear. ok, wierd. Also, the brake pads were worn at an angle, evenly matched on each pad. You put em together and they were straight, but the pad surface was the angle. Once again, slide pin. Inspection of the caliper itself didn't show anything untill the brake hose was removed. Piston stuck in place pretty solid, at least with just hand pressure. Ok, caliper shot, on to the next side. The left side released just fine, but still needed a pry bar to get it up out of the way. Upper slide pin stuck. Normal wear on the pads, but that pin wouldn't let go with a solid beating. Taking the hose off that one led to smooth piston operation. Tested the E-brake with the calipers and rotors off so I could see the pad movement, and everything moved freely, and returned to it's normal location when taken off. This had led me to believe that for whatever reason, it stuck on the right side, causing the bluing of the rotor, and just needs a bit o WD40 fix. As for the calipers, they are original, and being 212k on her, they just might be due. Found a new "loaded" (Brake job in a box) for 84 bucks a side, so not as bad as I would have thought. Was thinkin about 100 a side, so I'm happy. A nice big 900 mile road trip up to Seattle here in a couple days, so this should solve the problem. I hope. M.M.

Just to give you an idea of what I got into My fun times

Uhhhh, make that 2 sets, I'm in for a pair as well. All trouble paid. M.M.

Nah, it was dry out, no noise. I'm gonna take it apart tomarrow and check the pads/ calipers. I checked em about a year ago, and they were at about 60%, so the might be due, plus the caliper is original, so I think they might be shot. I'll check into that as well though 88.

Ok I haven't had the time to take the wheel off yet, but just as a preliminary symptoms. I was drivin on the freeway today, and hit some medium- light traffic, no biggie, stick, so minimal brake usage. Get off the freeway, and smell a burning smell. Friend notices same and asks if it's commin from me. Not sure at this point, but the smell is definately brakes. When we stop, the right rear wheel is smokin. Nothin major, but a thin white, whispy smoke commin from the caliper area. So... Just a quick check to verify things to look at when I go get the wheel off, as well as anything I missed Slide pins Amount of brake pad left Emergency Cable play Anything else? There was no mush whatsoever is the pedal, but it did seem I had to feather the clutch a bit when stopped to get started, and keep on the gas to keep her rollin. Any input is much appreciated, I'll let ya'll know how it goes. M.M.

You can pick up OEM aftermarket ones for about 150 a pair if I remember right. After that swapping them out isn't too hard, you just have to change out your brake fluid, as your old stuff will all drain out.

I lifted my suspension before I put on the headers. The old muffler had brackets attached to the body, but I just attached to the frame instead. That only would have affected a body lift anyhow.

You'll see sensor wires commin out of the main exhaust pipe, just after the Y connection. Mine was located on the top, slightly on the inboard side.

are you talkin about the pitman arm hole? Ironicaly enough, I had the same problem with my 91. Great service though, they shipped me the new one right away, and just said mail the wrong one back asap and gave me return postage. Here's the side by side of my old pitman arm, and new (wrong)

No idea on the gaskets, other than the dealer. I have a good friendship with the local dealer here, so they give me parts at a bit above cost, but way discounted off regular price. On the Air filter, have you tried resetting your ECU? try disconnecting your battery for a few minutes, then try reconnecting. Otherwise, I'd say O2 sensor, might be goin bad.

slide pin stuck maybe

Yes, I swapped out for a high flow cat, I picked it up at a local muffler shop. ASk around in your town, one should have one. I think I paid like 75 bucks for 2.25" in/ out. Cams are a project down the road, but alot further down the road. I've been rippin her apart enough lately that I just wanna play with her for a bit. Jim Wolf Tech makes a performance cam for our engines, as well as the only place to get a ECU mod (AC just sends them to him, and adds a sur charge). I'm really happy with the motor where its at now, plenty of power on and off the road. I am looking to move into the cam and ECU upgrade, as well as a P&P, but like I said, later, doesn't need it right now. My philosophy is if it needs replacement, might as well upgrade it. Right now, runnin fine, no need to mess with it. M.M.

Here here Mr. P I agree 100%

Nah, loosen the header from the block so you have some wiggle room. Attatch the EGR tube to the header first, the with that extra play, it should thread right into the EGR assembly. Once you get it goin, go ahead and tighten the header back down.

NPORA FAQ

Look in the common problems/ fixes. The voltage reg is about a 35 cent item from an electroncis store, at least thats what I paid. Had to resolder the threee wires, but other that that it was cake.

There's a number of brands out there for our rigs. Smittybuilt makes some, but from what it sounds like, the install in a bit tricky. You basically have 2 options, weld on or bolt on. I'm comfortable enough in my welding skills to weld mine on when I get em, but a straight bolt on, if properly designed, can be just as sturdy.

I welded mine using a little ol Lincoln welder. Proper way to do would be a TIG weld, but I coudn't get to ours at the time and I needed it done. Definately would not clamp it. Its a snug fit, but still some play in it, so a clamp will just leak. Right under the rig is not a good place for a leak my friend. If anything, bolt it all up, mark it for alighnment, and take em to anexhaust shop and have them do it.

Sliders are just burlier. And any time you add some thing to your rig that is burley, it has a tendancy to make your truck too burly. Not to mention functional as well. Sliders are commin up for me as well, bent the crap outta the factory nerfs, didn't even hit em too hard, but wasted em. Let us know which way you roll. M.M.

Lucky, Lucky Lucky. Mine was the furthest one back on the pass side, so even a 90 degree drill wouldn't have been able to get in there. I ended up PB Blasting it over night, drilling it, pounding the crap outta it , heating it with propane just to be sure, and still had to put a bit of elbow grease to get it out. Grats mans, you'll like the thorley's alot. Are you doin a full exhaust swap, or just the headers? If you have any questions, lemme know. M.M.

Basically what Bernard is saying, is that yes, you have to take it in. I'd imagine that turning a rotor in a lathe would be a most difficult task, as you would have a PITA of a time trying to get the thing to spin on its true axis. Only way I've ever seen it done is one a special rotor/ drum turning machine. Not to say its impossible, as I know better than to present that challenge to you Bernard, just difficult. M.M.

I'd go 3" just to keep from havin to do it again. Its alot easier to change the size of your tires, rather than go install another lift when you actually do need that extra 1". Besides, shouldn't look bad at all with 31's. Just a body with no suspension, 31" actually look good, as I've seen it on some trucks that way.

I have a similar problem 88, cept mine will retract almost all the way excpet for the last foot or so, and you have to push it just above the retractor to get it to go in. Spay some lube in there or what?

Really depends on what you're gonna be doin. I'm bent the crap outta my factory nerf bars off roadin, and well running boards are just a step, nothing more. Rock sliders are just that. They take the weight of the vehicle and slide over rocks rather than crunching your body or frame. With that in mind, selection of the proper application will help you decide which way to go.

Precise, I think as an Engineer, I might be the only one not thoughly confused with your explination . Well put , you have done your homework -study- , and from your analysis, it should work fine. It you happen across a second proto type, you know I'm right down the road to do some testing.