MaritimeMan

Idler arm should remove with just three bolts. No problem there. As far as your pitman arm is concerned, I used a really bif pry bar, taking turns on all side to finnally get it to come off. I didn't have the proper tools, but made do, however, a proper sized gear puller from Harbor Freight (Plug) will do the trick just right. Cheep too id I remember right, mine was in peices, so it was hard for me to go get one. M.M.

Just a hint, remove it before you do what 88 suggested. When I have done mine, I just pulled off the rubber hose right at the throttle body, so I could see what I was doin, and have a more effective spray by getting it where I wanted to. Or...... you could remove it.......

Still lookin for a pair myself, but no money to pay for 'em so........ the search continues.......... Man, it sucks being broke.

200K+ here, so do I get 2 T-shirts?

When my thermo was in question, I took the probe and relay, and put it in boiling water on the stove. You should see or hear it click shut when you put it in the water. Good way to test it to see if it works right. M.M.

Pahtfindre

Not too sure of your mechanical aptitude, but as far as the average and it sress average, body lift goes, they are fairly straight forward. Simple R/R ( remove and replace) is all it takes with a bit of jacking, and some inginuity if things get stuck. Realisitaly, you will save yourself alot of money by doing it yourself, or finding some one around here with the know-how, who will only charge you beer to get it done.

/\ what he said

Moog makes some solid parts. My recomendation is to find one with a lifetime warrenty, keep the boxes and reciept, and take em back every time they go.

If you do start to see rust, steel wool cleans it up very nicely it if's not too pitted. After it starts to pit though, it's just a matter of time before you'll need a rechrome. Proper maintenence will prevent pitting though.

The main difference between the two is how they are propelled. A superchager is run off the engines own turning forces. Thus you get immediate pressure boost, which is great for low RPM boost. However, it is run off the engine's power forces, i.e. a belt or gear driven, so at the upper range of the power band, a bit, small, but noticible amount of the engine power is going into driving the supercharger. With a turbo, as was prior stated, lacks the immediate response, as the exhaust gasses have to spool up the turbine side, and therefore drive the compressor on the intake side. The advantage of a turbo is that they are usualy smaller than a comparable supercharger, and are more efficent in the upper rpm/ power ranges. Hope this clears things up a bit.

Room, room, room. We have very limited real estate when it comes to our engine bays. Good, luck though, take lots of pics, and remember: Question: How fast do you want to go? Answer: How much money do you have?

as well as the ECU. The auto is programmed with all the info in it if I'm not mistaken, so you'd have to get a manual tranny ECU as well.

Score! I love Cruise Control, it's the shiznit.

The one here is similar in ways. $3 to get in, set prices for things you can haggle, small stuff goes in the pockets. I've only seen 1 Pathy in there at a time, and they are usualy picked over very well by the time I get to em. Oh well.

Use the search function, you could answer alot of your questions about the swap pretty quickly. As far as a tranny swap, you'd need to change out the ECU, and assosiated wiring to achieve it. Ask away if you have any more questions (after you use search), and welcome to NPORA. M.M.

sweet, some times all it takes is a bit of :furious: -alcohol- :confused: and then some more

I'm on the other side. I wouldn't use an impact unless I have absolutely no other choice. I have snapped off waaaaaaay to many bolt heads with those darn things, and in the most in opportune places. I'd recomend PB blaster for a day or two (let it soak in, be patient), pound it a few times with a hammer to free up any corrosion, and use a wrench w/ a cheater bar. I'm a much bigger fan of cheater bars, just make sure you find one that slips completely over the wrench for safety's sake. Good luck. M.M.

Thats a sweet shade of green. I've always like Pathy's with that color scheme goin on. Welcome to the family. M.M.

Just remember, there's absolutely no point in getting the fancy expensive plugs if you do nothing to the rest of the electrical components. Even with upgraded wires, I'd just go with the slightly up from low grade plugs. Now if you achieve a full MSD ignition system, then those pretty penny plugs play a larger role. Just my 2 cents, people seem to like shellin out $5-6 per plug when there are minimal if not negligible results.

Factory manuals are the greatest. i don't even tough my Haynes or Chiltons any more. Keep an eye out on ebay, thats the best place to get em. Oh and 88, your's was mailed today, so it should get there is a couple of days.

Figured as much, thought I'd ask though just to be sure. Oh well, not a problem with tire wear, just annoying.

Use a knife, cut it off and replace it. Vacuum Hose is about 50 cents a foot if I remember right, if not cheeper. Don't even mess with trying to glue it.

Yeah, and make sure you use the right oil. Put GL-5 in without knowing any better, had it in about 2 months, including a road trip from Vallejo up to Seattle and back. Needless to say, when I found out, I changed as fast as I could, added the extra of the right stuff. However, she is gettin louder and louder with the whines, in all gears, and I fear she is headed out to the pasture. Oh well, another thing on the list, gettin nice, so I'll just ride my bike a bit more.

If you can go with aftermarket ones, it would be worth it. Stock the wires are 7mm, whereas an upgrade to 8mm would show some improvement. Not sure which brand would work the best. I know 88 runs Taylors, but he has TBI.