MaritimeMan

Ditto, does summit offer such an item?

Headers will increase performance. If you still drive like an old lady, then yes, it will improve gas mileage. It you drive pedal to the metal, you will go fater, but no gain in gas mileage.

Yah, but that would completely defeat the purpose of what I am trying to achieve here. Its the outter one, so there is no chance of support ffrom the rest of the flange, and it would eventualy leak again. Might as well get it done while I can, and create less problems down the road.

Would that involve the timing belt at all? Don't want to do it unless I have to, and I'd like to avoid the timing belt.

The first and most important step to this process: Spray PB Blaster on any and evey bolt, nut stud you will be removing and let it soak fo at least a day. I let mine soak for 3. Well, the manifolds came out easy enough, but still the SNAFU. The top rear stud on the passenger side was snapped, and sitting inside the heat shielding. Only problem, it's busted about a 1/4" inside the block. Ok only one, fair enough, still doesn't explain the full blown exhaust nois, besides the tick. Then the tri (three bolt) flange from the man to the pipe was removed. Took apart the Y pipe connection, and the whole darn pipe came out, rotted at the tri flange. Hmmmm nice touch, explains the noise. Problem is now that darn busted stud. Any suggestions on gettin it out? Realisticaly, the only way I see being able to get at it with any precision is to remove the engine. There is absolutely no room back there for a drill and easy out, plus all the rest of the studs are a PITA to get out, so might as well save the time by takin it out. Oh well, had a feelin it would end up this way. Wish me Luck. M.M.

Just for the data, Thorleys are 2.25 out. I just got a set and am keepin it 2.25 all the way through. Changing too much creates pressure drops, which in turn, create turbulent flow. Plus for our tiny engines, 3" is too big, I'd say 2.5 max. M.M.

My suggestion is to keep looking. Wipe everything down as clean as you can get, use some degreaser if you can. The trouble with diagnosing the starter area is that it sits right below the fliter in Nissan's flawless design, when you change it, you are gaurnteed to spill some oil, which attracts dirt, etc. Clean the erea the best you can, and se if the oil returns before you change the filter again. You might just have a bad seal on it. Good luck M.M.

firing order is 123456

http://www.car-part.com/

On removing the pully, if you have a manual, just put it in 4th or 5th gear. Otherwise, and impact gun or breaker bar with a strap wrench like 88 showed.

THose look sweet. I definately like the white with black, how about a black with white too? If a large enough order is placed, should be about 15 bucks a shirt. Thats just from my experiences. I'd definately be in for at least two, one white and one dark, either black or blue whichever whay we go.

Summit lets them go for $440. Keep in mind those are ceramic coated, inside and out, so the regular ones would be less. Yep, as usual I will be doin the install of everything myself. I've gotten in over my head before, but I have a couple buddies with vast amounts of experience in this kinda stuff, so I'm not too worried about this project, its just gonna take a day or two to do.

Well good luck to ya mud, thievery is always a beotch, don't approve of it at all. Hope all works out for ya in the end. M.M.

Oh you didn't know? its their lattest mod, Calmini pool tables. Alloy slate, custom felt, machined pockets, and of course, space rubber rails. Or just toss a sticker on the side like I did. Heh, yeah install pics are soon to come. This is gonna be a weekend project, and well this week is gonna be rough. 28th is Megadeath concert, 29 is my 24th B day, 30th is day o rest, and 31 is Halloween, so no rest for the weary, or college student, whichever you want to look at it. M.M.

And so the project begins. Thats right ladies and gentlemen, what we have here are a brand spankin new, ceramic coated set of Thorley headers. Took a while for summit to get them in, but they are here, just in time for my birthday present to myself. Along with these bad boys will be goin a high flow cat, followed by a Flowmaster, 2.25" piping through out as that is the size of the header Y pipe flange. Should be a fun project, as once again, I am doin it myself. Gonna have some extra fun with the studs, cause I'm pretty sure one side is completely wasted. Oh and bending the pipe to fit, and attachin the oxy sensor, but I have the tools for that. Any how, wish me luck, heres a pic of the new goods. http://www.geocities.com/crazzycroatian/Pathy.html

ANy one have any pics of this operation? I have to the same and pics would be great. I'm just a visual kind of learner. M.M.

5. Crossmember to frame bolts Thats where I would start, I had a similar noise, check Jim's web page for the how to and how much, and did it myself. Turned out 2 of them wereso loose you could spin the bolt inplace, so I tightened them, problem solved. Think its about 100 ft-lbs if I remember correctly. Good Luck M.M.

Ok here's the scoop. I tried AC's and was far from satisfied. Just put in the Calmini's, couldn't be happier. Just by taking them out of the box they came in I could tell it is a far superior product. From the sleeves, bushings, arms, to the new set of ball joints they even toss in, it is a great kit. It may be a few bucks more, but trust me, I've had both, and Calmini's product is Quality. I can't say enough about how good it is. Just don't make the same mistake I did. M.M.

Yah I second the Hub change, get rid of those auto POS's install of Warn's is pretty easy, as long as you keep track of the order the parts came off.

You got it, I'll take them after classes, don't have a camera with me, and need to go get align done, class at 1230. Check in tonight.

Oh yeah lol, thanks for pointin that out. heh

Oh by the way, I'm runnin 31's for tires

Today I finished up installing the calmini steering upgrade, and well, lets just say those are some beefy replacement parts. However, on the driver side, the tie rod adjuster hits the sway bar when the wheels are cranked full right. The measurement I am looking for is from the ground to the bottom of the attachment point on the spindle, where the tie rod connects to. I measured mine, and Passenger side: 15" Driver side: 14 3/8" I think my spindle might be jacked, as the control arm spindle, and tensioning rod, were both bent to heck, most likey due to a wheelin incident, thanks for the help and the measuring. M.M.

http://www.car-part.com/ good used part search engine

Hey 88, still want those AC UCA's? I'm back in Vallejo, puttin the calmini ones on this weekend. They are yours if ya want to play with em. Lemme know. M.M.