MaritimeMan

Here's a suggestion from Jims page http://www.jimbennett.net/axlenoise.htm I had a similar problem of a clunking noise when turning, when the weight of the vehicle transfered from one side to another. Checked the bolts, 2 were loose, tightened them, and the noise went away, problem solved. Hope this helps. M.M.

I have been a fan of the ARB's since day one. But thier price is a bit spendy. The next big project is to design, assemble/ build one, similar style. Any ideas would be great, as they always help. The jig is almost ready, materials are availible, welder is ready to go. M.M.

Well, I've been lookin about, but the problem has gotten somewhat worse. Now on occasion, they like to unlock after a lock attempt. It seems that the movement is restricted, and the locks are held back, causing them to return to which ever position they came from. I'll look into all of those ideas, and let you know how it turns out, however, I am very hesitant to take her to a dealer, as one they charge way too much, and well, its just a pain. I'll keep ya'll posted on what I find, thanks, M.M.

Ditto on the welding

Ok, before I did anything, I researched using the search option, and found a few posts, but no solutions. Now for the problem. It is a typical door lock problem, when I go to unlock the doors, the locks seem to struggle up at times, and then pop back down. Even times when they don't struggle up, they still pop back down. At fist, this problem was rectified by unlocking the doors again, but now, they will do it three, four times in a row, and is rather annoying. My next step is to check the connection to the switch on the driver door, but is there anything else I can do to clear this up? I remember seeing something about relay contact cleaning on a post, but don't remember if that was even door related. Thanks for the help, as always. M.M. P.S. I'm back for good now, my travels were a blast, but its good to be home.

This is just my 2 cents, but I own a 91 and went with the AC upper control arms, and now that they are in place, I really wish I haddn't. They fit is far from par. Ya sure they go in easy enough, but they leave a gap in the spindle when tightened down that makes alignment a PITA. You have to get the gap just right on each side to make her drive straight, hit a solid off road bump, and it's all buggered up again. Also, the AC A arms, even though I followed every direction that came with them, including grease on the bushings, squeek over the tiniest bumps, making the most annoying sound in the world. Right now, I wish I spent the extra cash for the calmimi ones, rather than the cheeper AC ones. Or just stick with the stock ones, new T bars, and crank away. Any one want to buy a set of AC arms cheep? M.M.

Summit racing, from what I've seen has had the best prices. I've been lookin into them too, and they have to order them, but shipping is free.

I think I just found my next upgrade. And the list grow, and grows, and grows.......

Welcome, you will find this is the best group of guys and gals around. M.M.

Yah, I thought of that too. The Pathy was pullin before I did the brake job, which was where I decided to do the brakes after checkin all 4 corners. The back ones are almost dead even, with about 60% pad left. Seein how the front ones do all the work, thats more than reasonable. I haven't had alot of time lately to check into her. Schools wrapin up for the semester, and I'm about to head off to sea for 2 months, then over to Europe for another month, so it will probly just have to wait till then. Any how, input is appreciated, as always. 9 time out of 10, its the one thing you didn't think of. M.M.

Another place to check might be your tie rods. If these get worn, play can occur, and cause shimmy in the steering wheel at higher speeds due to thier looseness. An alighnment shop should be able to check them out for you, and I think they go for something around $100 a set. If they find that one is loose, I would recomend replacing the inner and outter rods, as you might as well do it while you are there. Hope this helps, let us know how it turns out. M.M.

Yah,, i came across the same thing when I was pullin mine out. I just pulled the wiring out the best I could, and cut the rest. There are no live wires, so no worries there either. Funny note though. When I was wiring my piaa's, I went with a straight wiring (not connected to the headlights) and found a wire in the harness to the shock switch which was live with ignition. I just spliced into that one, and installed my light switch on the console. M.M.

At 250 bucks, you are half way to the Calmini upgrade. Maybe its just my mentality, but why not go all the way if you are already 1/2 way there? M.M.

How much do Thorley's run? I see on thier site they have a local shop, but have been too lazy to call them. Just lookin for a ball park figure. Thanks. M.M.

Wow, that is a good write up. I will definately try that as soon as I can, and let you know how things went. M.M.

I have some american racing rims. Mine are the non polished alumium type, and have done me just fine on and off the road. Yah they are a little beat up here and there, but so is my truck. Hope that helps. M.M.

Oh yeah its great, I don't have to touch the wheel to change lanes. It wanders to the right due to alighnment, and pulls left when I hit the brakes

I recently changed the pads of the front of my Pathy, and bleed them upon completion. However, when I step on the brakes, she still pulls hard to the left. She was doint this before I changed the pads, and the left inner pad was almost gone, while the other were in fairly decent shape. (about 50% pad left) Any idea as to what might be causing this? There are no leaks in the system, but the vehicle has over 200k miles on her. I'm thinkin I should bleed the right side some more, but not sure. Thanks M.M.

I usualy go with the Napa Gold filter. It has done just fine. I have used Frams before as well and those work well too.

Maybe a torque converter? Thats about the only drum thingy in a auto that I can think of.

Sweet thanks for the info guys, they are installed and work perfect.

Ok, I recently scored a pair of 520's and I am wondering how exactly the wiring should be done. The lamp portion is fairly obvious, but the smaller diameter wires is where I'm confused. Also, do I have to use Piaa's standard switch, or can I use a different one? I emailed Piaa, and there should be a wiring intruction on the way, but I'm too antsy to sit around with these awesome lights hangin off my bumper.

Standard Please

Dude, your steering wheel is on the wrong side. What coversion kit is that?

Well green fluid is coolant/ anti freeze. Check your Hose connections to and from the radiator first.