MaritimeMan

bummer, pics crappin out, well here's the link to em Just Filter Set up

oh yeah completely forgot that factor duh -alcohol- This is about a rack and a half if working solo, add more appropriately for buddies cause we all know we only work on our trucks with one hand cause a beer's in the other.

dunno, but you can buy the salvage reights from them and get your truck back. Use the left over cash to fix her, or let her ride and go buy a new pathy.

tag

Want a motor pull tip? Get at least 3 of those magnetic parts trays, one of the big ones, 2 small, and an electrical numbering kit available at Home Depot in the electrical section. Use the latter to label EVERY hose, harness, wire, etc that you will be pulling off. Trust me, I have pulled my motor twice, and it saves alot of headache trying to figure out what goes where. Good luck, hope you know some good swear words :furious: cause you are gonna run into SNAFU's, just keep at it, you'll be happy when you are done. M.M.

Here's the whole set up, as viewed from the Pass fender And just the filter

Ok, intall itself was fairly simple, but bear in mind, I had to pull the motor to get to a broken stud. Thorley's are a bit expensive (more than the Pace's any how) but with this type of install, I'd say its worth it just going off of past experiences. IF you don't have any studs busted, a shop worth its salt would be a reasonable way to go if you don't have the time and tools to do it, as you do have to weld the Y pipe together. This also might be kind of tricky as you would be doing it under you vehicle, as I did this phase while my motor was out. Even so, bolt them up snug, tach weld em, then unbolt then, and finish the weld. A bit time consuming to bolt and unbolt, but the job you can do is much better and easier. I'm not sure if the Thorley's bolt up to stock exhaust, as I replaced it all with 2.25 piping and high flow cat w/ flowmaster. Hope this info help, lemme know if you have any other questions, I put a link to Summit's Thorley's in the 90-95 section, and they took just under two weeks to get them. If you do go summit's route, tell them you wanted them shipped directly to you from Thorley, should save a couple of days. M.M.

Went with the perma-cool kit, summit part number: PRM-10695, and on a scale of 1-10 difficulty, I'd say its about a 2, maybe a 3 or 4 with the engine in place, just due to gettin the adapter plate onto the engine. The kit comes with everything you need and you use the same filter, so here are the tools you will need: Crecent wrench 3/8" wrench Flat head screw driver Channel locks Thread Sealer Drill w/ bit Ok install is super easy, but the best way to do it is with the motor cold. First attatch the two nipples to the adapter plate using some thread sealer. Use the crecent (not sure proper size wrench) to tighten these down while holding it in your hand. Next, take off your old filter, but do not discard it. Set it aside. The kit comes with varying nipples find the one that easily screws onto your existing filter nipple. And I mean easy. It should slide right on, just like a filter. Now take that nipple off, it should have knurrled first few threads, and thread it into the adapter plate, non-threaded end into the adapter first. Now take the whole assembly making note of the IN and OUT stamped on the perspective hose fitting,, and use the supplied o ring, placing it in the groove of the adapter (oil it like you would a filter), and screw the unit onto the old filter location. Once in place, put the wrench back on the nipples the make sure everything is tight. This is where it may get a bit tricky if the engine is in place. I cut the length of supplied hose in half, and attatched them to the nipples, tightening down with the suppled hose clamps. Hard part done. Now for the relocation. You want to keep the hoses away from the exhaust at all costs, so I ran mine forward, between the battery and power steering reservoir, and mounted the filter adapter just behind the fuel filter. Attatch the nipples to the filter adapter in the same manner as the engine one. This adapter has a special nipple different from the others in that it is knurrled about 2/3 of the way down. or 1/3, half empty half full. Screw the short end into the adapter, I used the channel locks and a rag to make sure I got the knurrled part in there good. Screw the filter (new or old, uses stock filter) and boom done with that. Now to mount the bugger. Since there are three holes to drill, and only one can be reached with the braket in the filter adapter as a guide, I used that one to start off. The three holes make a triangle with the long bottom being 2" and the outter two to the top, 1.25" (make sense?) Just measure from the first hole, draw a triangle where you want it to go, drill away. Use the 3/8 wrench to mount the filter bracket with the supplied screws. My hoses were a bit long so I trimmed them down, but be sure not to kink the hoses in any way. This is your oil we are talkin about, so don't cut them too short. I used the extra hose as rub guards any where the hoses touched something. Now make note of the OUT and IN on the filter adapter. OUT from the engine goes to the IN of the filter and vise versa. Once again DO NOT mix these up, it will result in no oil to your engine. Once the hoses are attatched, use the last two hose clamps to secure them. Done Check you oil level before you start your engine, just to get a reference. I simply used that last 3/8 of oil to make it round 4 quarts once I saw it go down a bit. Start the motor. If you did everything right, feel the filter and it should start getting warm after a minute of two. If not shut down the engine and check you hose routing. Other than that its a simple install and easy filter changing. Gotta love that. Hope this helps. M.M.

Ok cool, figured as much.

$440.99, free shipping from summit, put a link in the 90-95 section

Summit Thorleys Just omit the C at the end for the Nickel ones.

uhhh, I got my Thorley Ceramic coated off summit racing for $440, free shipping. FYI.

I couldn't help it. Stayed up till 0400 last night putting everything back together. The rest of the exhaust needs to be fabbed up, but with this much effort, I could resist firin her up. Oh boy does she rumble, these are gonna be nice. Took her for a quick spin, could barely stand the noise at 2500, but ramped it up to 3500 any how just for S & G. This project is hittin crunch time, as I'm drivin home to Seattle on Sat. morning. Wish me luck. M.M. Oh, and pics commin soon, Maybe a short video as well.

Help, guys, once again. Eveything is back together, but I have one little wire left over. Its a back wire, approx 9" long with a forked connection at one side, and a cylinder with an attachment tab on the other. If I remember right, it came off my alternator, but I'm not sure how to wire it up. Project is almost done, just need to get this thing in to make sure to alt is charging. Thanks M.M.

Link to Pics

Ok todays update. Clutch kit, new plugs, motor mounts, thermostat, fuel filter, mocked up the Y pipe and ripped the rest of the exhaust out. I had to cut the muffler out, just behind it, so I could get the tail pipe out. Cat unbolted, so I have three crappy lookin sections to model for my pipe bending fun. Engine on the hoist with the headers all mocked up really got me excited. Was workin kind of slow today, but lookin at that really got me movin. She's gonna be bad arse when I'm all done. Oh and took some pics today, so I'll update my Domain page tomarrow and link it so ya'll can see. and the fun continues....... M.M.

Sweet, thanks guys. Figured as much, but wanted to make sure. M.M.

Oh and lgranch, I'm a college student. I don't sleep, just work till its done.

Well, just a quick update. The motor is out. The relocation kit is on its way, 45.99 from summit. New clutch kit, timing belt. One of the motor mounts was busted so a new set of those. and the best part; I GOT THE FRIGGIN STUD OUT!!!!!!!!!! The one that was busted in the block, PB blasted it last night and center punched it . This afternoon, drilled it, heated it with propane, used an extractor, and out she came, little fuss or muss. As far as the P&P goes, I did some research and askin around on the matter. What I found is that i8t will add a couple of HP, yes, but it is usualy the last thing done to a built up motor. While "Burping and Farting" is definately a good thing, I really don't have the time or money right now to build her up, or perform a P&P (even though a buddy has the do-it-yourself kit). Right now, I just want to focus on getting the exhaust work done, as I'm gonna need her in about a week to drive up to Seattle. Thanks for all the input though, I will keep the motor mods in the back of my mind for a later date. M.M.

Help, when pullin my starter, there is a little yellow wire that broke and I can't tell where it went. It looks like it goes to some sort of sensor on the passenger side towards the of the block, but I can't tell. If any one has an idea, it would be great. Thanks M.M.

I will never deal with AC again. Period. Thier products are crap, and even if they are made by some one else, I will not go through them as a middle man, even if I have to pay a couple of bucks extra somewhere else.

Yah cosmetics I'm over, just gonna get dirty again next time I go wheelin. What exactly is a port and polish? I know it has to do with the intake man and heads, but how is it done? Is a reliable machine shop capable of performing this? The relocation kit will be ordered tomarrow. How about the EGR valve? Machine the Flywheel? I have all weekend to work on this crap, but I'd like to have her back together mid week if at all possible, so if I have to spend a few buck to have some one make me something, wait for parts, etc, I'm sittin ok.

How is the 30' cheeper than the 20'?

2.25 for cheepie in Vallejo, about 2.56 to 2.74 (still cheepie) in the bay area

Spent a good 5 hours last night gettin the motor ready to pull. Only thing left to do is motor mounts and unbolt the tranny. Timing belt is a gimme, as it has about 40k on it, but anything else I should tackle while I'm in there? Water pump, thermostat, or any other items that are a PITA to get to, much easier with the motor out? A filter relocation kit was suggested on a different thread, but where can I get one? I'll try summit and see what they say. Thanks for the input. M.M.