zonianbrat

That is quite ghey.

Thank you......

And it also looks like Barney and Kermit the frog barfed all over it. :oops:

I was thinking the same thing... What is the point of those lights

Sorry.

I look to buy a truck also but what is the point in buying a "truck" that weighs 5000 lbs but has a weak motor... You have look at other things than what it is besides the fact that it is a truck. Duh

Yeah I do actually look for more horsepower when buying a truck. And 10 more is 10 more.

There is a ton of good info here so do your research. For what you are describing I think an R50 would be up your alley. As you have read, the R50 is more comfortable at higher speeds off-road, and cushy on-road. If you are just going to be off-roading occasionally when fishing or hunting then an R50 will get you wherever you have to go. Vengeful is right about underbody protection though, you gotta have it. It truly depends on what terrain you need to go through. When hunting or fishing you usually do not need to so hardcore rock crawling. When I go wheelin it is all about 4x4 trails in the rocky mountains. Vengeful know's more about the "rating" on certain trails. I probably should but do not pay any attention to that stuff. I find 4x4 roads on my Colorado Gazateer and off we go. I am here to say that I have impressed a few people with what a R50 can do off-road.

Sorry to hear that ticker, Sounds fishy to me though, anytime a shop brings something up that is wrong first in my opinion means they had something to do with it. Especially since it has nothing to do with your alignment. Then again I could be wrong but.....I wonder if it is shattered or just spider-cracked?

I say go for it!! I will buy one when I can afford it

Yeah not a fan of AC anymore..

Thanks Dan for sounding so professional, It is true though both wd's and R50's excel in certain areas. My 97 kicks as$ but one day I hope to get a Wd mainly for off-roading ( once I can find another job closer to home so I can sell the accord.)

I have a K&N cone filter. I noticed a tiny bit more throttle response about 1 to 1.5 mpg gain if you drive like grandma. Main thing I noticed is that it sounds alot better when you give it some throttle (so much for mpg gain ) All in all I like it, but keep your stock air-box for when you do decide to go off-roading.

You might be opening up a can of worms there buddy. People who own wd's (94or95) are going to be partial to their own rigs. While people who own R50's will also be partial. I own a 97 and love it. It has taken everything I have thrown at it and more. I have a buddy who has a 95 pathy I must admit it is pretty sweet. I know there is limited after-market items for the 96+ pathy's although this is changing as we speak. As long as you go with a pathy your headed in the right direction. And welcome to NPORA!!

As pavelow says go to some of your local tire shops, they will either have the key for it or be able to get them off for you, or in worse case they will order you the key you need.

To find out if you are on compression stroke I took a piece of paper towel, (I had removed all my spark plugs because I was going to replace them anywya) wad up the paper towel and put it on top of no. 1 cylinder where the spark plug goes, then turn the engine over by hand, when the piston starts teh compression stroke it will blow teh paper towel out of the hole. Then line up the marks and your at TDC. And while your replacing those parts go ahead and replace the cooland bypass hose. really easy to replace and you are already going to be right there. If you do not have an impact gun to get the 27mm bolt of the crank pulley (this bolt can be a bitcY) do what I did. I put my 27mm socket and my breaker bar on the bolt then positioned the bar under the frame-rail thingy and "bumped" the starter make sure you just bump it. Other than that it really is a pretty easy job. Oh and make sure to be careful when prying off the crank pulley, I broke the lip on mine and it cost me 250 bucks for a new one. I would definetely get a harmonic balancer puller and tow 6mm bolts. Good luck.

Great write-up Quismo!!! Thanks. This should be pinned up in the how-to section. I think I am going to have to do this job in the near future. I got the 1447 code like 2 months ago found out what I was looking at but the light went out like 3 days later and has not come back on since. I even ran the codes again at VATO-ZONE and had no codes so I am ok for now but the Evap cansiter is suspect.

I wish I was at home I would take some pics for ya, And I can not visualize exactly which bolts to tighten. YOu do have idler arms for two of the belts, the power steering belt is tightened by it's own bolt underneath. Best bet is to check your FSM. Or just get under there, I know once you find the power steering pump it is just on the driver side of it close to your fender-well. And yes it is kind of a bitc* to tighten as there is not much room in there. The other two belts are easily tightened. If you get under the hood and look at the idler arms you should be able to tell which one tightens it.

I am willing to bet it is one of your belts. I had a similar problem it started just like yours but the problem got worse. I tried to cover it up with some belt dressing because I knew I was going to be replacing the belts soon when I did my t-belt change. it is an easy fix if your belt is loose. To check it just push on your belts and see how far it "deflects" I am not sure of the exact measurment of deflection but I think it is like 1/4 inch? Do not quote me on that. Just remember that the power steering belt is down below. That is the one that was loose on my truck. After I installed the t-belt it would squeal for like a second or two at startup then stop turns out it was the PS belt being loose. That is the only one that is kind of a pain to tighten. Good luck

Check out craigslist.com, There are usually some pretty good deals on trailers. Or just go to harbor freight and get a "trailer in a box" (assembly required) it is a new trailer you put together not bad at all if you just wanna haul that boat around and smaller stuff.

Or just buy the compressor from Harbor Frieght and then buy the air tools from lowes or somewhere else. That is what I plan on doing, I know two buddies that have HF compressors and they say over the last couple of years they have had no problems, granted I would not use it for work but for shadetree mechanic type uses it will be just fine and save you some coin.

Sorry I was wrong I guess they do make an impact that is cordless...

your truck is just winking at ya!!

I am not sure if they even make cordless impact wrenches? I do not have air either YET? So I bought a electric impact from harbor freight. Problem is it is huge and bulky but does the jobs I need. And it was like 30 bucks so when it burns up I will not be do disapointed.