zonianbrat

Take some pictures of the radiators. More than likely one of them is the AC condensor. Then the actual radiator. Mine has a small transmission cooler on the very front. Without pics we are shooting in the dark.

Who are you talking to? I bypassed the cooler located internally in the radiator. It still flows through an external cooler located on the front of the condensor.

I dont know the answer to your question as far as how to install the external cooler. I just did the bypass part a couple of days ago. It is easier than changing the oil. I havent gotten it out on any long trips yet so I do not know if I will even need another cooler. It gets really cold here in winter so I would be worried of it getting too cold. I'm going to see what temps run this summer when we tow the boat with it.

I like the looks of those!

I completely agree. I just wasnt sure if it didnt involve something taking apart the front of the engine or something else stupid. I see this kind of thing more and more.

Thanks, for clearing that up a bit. I do have the auxillary cooler in front of the radiator. I talked to a dealership today and they recommended a new radiator and told me it is redesigned. They wanted to charge me 800 bucks total. Is a radiator hard to install in these R51's? I've done it on past vehicles and it wasnt much of a problem. If not I will just bypass the one I have. I seen one write-up but I will have to do more research as to make sure I dont screw anything up.

Would bypassing it cause problems during cold weather? I was under the impression the fluid went through the radiator to pick up some heat. Im not sure why this is designed this way if in fact that is true. I live in the mountains where it can get to -40. If I bypass the radiator and run a circuit of trans--cooler--trans will I see problems with trans fluid being too cold? I had a firend who installed a bigger tranny cooler because he towed heavy and a lot here in the mountains and he would have to cover the tranny cooler if it was below 20 degrees or it would shift really hard. I tow a small camper but it only weights 2k but it is up a lot of mountain roads. Just want to avoid SMOD.

Question about SMOD. Hi all I have a question for you guru's. Can you tell me where the failure is happening exactly? I assume that the fluid runs through the radiator to get warm??? Is this correct? then it runs through a cooler? I'm a bit confused I guess. Would a replacement radiator solve this problem completely? I do not want to simply bypass as I tow a camper and want the tranny to stay cool. If I get a B&M tranny cooler do I simply block off the lines that go into the radiator? I want this done correctly and will be doing it myself so I want to be as knowledgible on the subject as possible before I start. I have done some searches and always seem to come back to the bypass threads. So I figured I would just straight up ask so maybe someone can explain it all to me rather than looking at other forums. Thank you all in advance. Oh and the vehicle is a 2007 R51

Hey everybody it's been a while since I have been on here. I have a question for all you WD fans. I am thinking about buying this 95 pathfinder that needs new injectors. Can somebody tell me how labor intesive or how hard the job is and what is needed? Any and all information about this install/fix is appreciated. I can get the truck for a hell of a good deal but want to know if I am getting in over my head by needing to install fuel injectors. Thanks

You could be opening up a can of worms by doing the studs. They tend to be seized and break off. I have a buddy who was changing his out his exhaust manifolds for new headers. Easy enough right? Well 3 studs broke off. First two came out with the easy out then we broke the easy out inside the stud. What a PITA. If your worried about flushing then just change the oil and be done with it until you have more cash and time to do the gaskets and studs.

That's what makes this site so great. The HUMAN aspect. If you want straight shop talk then you might be better off going to a mechanics forum. Either way you got the suggestions you needed and it worked out and you will have Lockers at the beginning of the year you lucky bastage!. Bri

Go to a farm supply store. They have straps that are rated for like 80k + lbs for pulling stuck semi's and tractors etc. 15,000 lbs is really not alot for a tow strap. I have a cheapo (kinda like a harbor frieght) nylon flat weave strap that is rated at 12,000 lbs and I would not rely on that to pull somebody out from being stuck in mud/snow. I trust it to tow somebody a short distance with no obstruction of being stuck. They can get kinda pricey depending on how much they are rated for but if you go ahead and spend a little $ on a good one then you wont have to worry about it ever. Here is a website containing good tow/recovery straps. http://www.uscargocontrol.com/recoverytows...CFQrFGgodGiIeiw I'm just throwing this out there becuause you said you are willing to help people any time they need it which I think is a good thing. If you think your going to be doing it often enough then why not buy a strap that you will never have to worry about when pulling somebody out, or when you get stuck yourself. I have been using an old semi strapping strap for the last 3 years that I got from work. It is rated at like 16,000lbs or something like that. It was old and last year when I pulled out my father in law's ranger it broke. I had enough of it where I just tied another loop and it still works. I will be buying a nice one here one day when I get actually get back to goin wheelin once in a while. I will probably not buy one rated for less than 40,000 lbs+. I have a small flat tote that I keep mine in also. It helps out cause even a strap will get wet and covered in snow and it makes am mess just being in the back of your pathfinder. Chain on the other hand gets to be a pita after pulling out just one person cause it gets wet and extremely cold. Not to mention it is heavy! Plus if your roads use alot of salt it just makes it rust 10 times faster. you can prolong the rust by rinsing them off with warm water every time your done using them but that sucks too! I have used both chains and straps. My buddy only used chains in his K-5 Blazer to pull people out. I helped out a few times and it was just a pita. Not to mention I forgot gloves like an idiot so my hands were absolutely frozen to the core after handling that chain.

Good on ya for helping people out. I did it two years ago when we got like 3' of snow over 3 days. My opinion though would be to get a nice tow strap. I've seen a chain brake and it is scary. I am not saying that it would break as it sounds like a somewhat stout chain. I just believe in being safe. Plus chains gets to be a pita after you have used it a few times in the snow and it's all cold and wet. Not to mention the rust factor.

If indeed your getting 21mpg on the highway then that is pretty good and you need to keep that truck!! My R50 was in tip-top shape and I never got that good gas mileage. I know it got even worse dealing with the wind out here. After all the truck is as aerodynamic as a port-a-potty. And trust when I talk about the hills here....there is no way to "coast" up the other side. I would try to gain all the speed I could on the downhill before. There are a few hills I can think of that I would get going 90-95 and even so if I tried to coast up the other side I would not make it up!! It's all good now though my Xploder climbs the same hills at speed most of the time not even coming out of OD. And if it does it goes into a mild passing gear (it doesnt scream). And I'm getting 21-22 mpg going 75-80 depending.

I owned a 97R50 with the VG 3.3 and 31" tires. When you factor in your mileage you have to factor in the terrain you drive. I live in Colorado and when I used to commute to Denver (120miles round trip) I would never get more than 16. The drive from Ft. Collins to Denver is mostly flat. Granted in order to keep from being run over by semi's in I-25 you have to do atleast 70 if not 75. When I got my current job it involved alot of highway driving either south down Colorado or East across Wyoming. Both drives included alot of steep sometimes gradual inclines. My gas mileage would really suffer because I would have to make that VG scream to get up some of those hills without being run over. It was pathetic at times as driving east across Wyoming sometimes I could barely keep up with Semi's going up gradual hills with my foot to the floor. After having that truck then totalling it, I have come to the conclusion that I will not own another pathfinder (as a DD that has to run on the highway's up here) unless it has the VQ. So when deciding if it is worth it to own a VG I think you have to look at your driving habits and the terrain. On flat land the VG handles things and can keep up without much problem while actually getting "par" fuel mileage. On hilly/gradually elevating terrain or quick steep hills the VG is just not really up to it unless you keep your foot buried and the rev's high therefore getting sub par mileage. Perhaps a re-gear would have "helped" but I just do not think the VG has the power to keep up with the terrain and the increasing maximum speed limits up here. Now if the speed limit was still 55 then you would have no problems with the VG.

NaPORA is how I say it.

I believe I heard the same thing the guy at discount was saying. I think you have bigger brakes so a 15" does not clear them. I am not positive but pretty sure.

I thought you had a buyer for the other R50. Did I miss something? Oh and that is a nice truck Lax, Congrats and have fun with the VQ. After riding in Isaac's R50 I have decided that the next pathfinder I buy has to have the VQ.

There is a place in Cheyenne Wyoming that does those conversions. I briefly checked the link but did not see where they are located. The Cheyenne location has a Jeep Cherokee fitted with a set sitting out front. They look like they could be fun but definitely cost prohibitive.

Being that they are part of the unibody structure I would not think you could just cut them and use standard sliders. Seems like if you twist and articulate the suspension that you would permantly twist the body. But you can read up on AK's build thread on his WD21. He cut his rockers out but integrated sliders where they were. A brilliant idea from a 4x4 guru.

I voted for the Locker. Everybody is right though it really depends on teh type of wheeling you do. Personally I like trails with mud. A locker I believe can help out more depending on the trail. Plus you already have the compressor installed. Get the locker and save up for Lift and tires later.

I agree with pezzy on this one. The Sandstorm is really blah. But it's your rig so do what you think is right. We can only give opinions here so hey feel free to prove us wrong.

I have not done any research on the Kumho's but I had a set of the BFG's and loved them. I had like 45,000 miles on them and they would have gone another 20,000 easily. I am getting another set once I wear out my current tires. As far as the Kumho's like I said I have not heard much or done much research but I did have a set of I beleive Z-rated ties on my SS Camaro and they handled fantastically but wore out kinda quickly in my opinion but they are ofcourse a softer compound. Nice looking rig btw.

Very nice Alex!! How much lift does that have? Congrats. I plan on making it back to the pathy world in the same manor you did. R50 as long as it has the 3.5.