zonianbrat

I did not stay on the website long enough to find out what the life of those plugs are either.

What do you guys think of these? I'm not looking to buy them since I just replaced my plugs like 12,000 miles ago. But I saw a late night commerial and figured I would do a little research on them. Kinda pricy huh? What do you guys think of the theory of actually burning fuel more efficiently. http://www.pulstarplug.com/

I will attest to the BF Goodrich AT KO's. Ive had mine for 2 years now and they do not show much wear. They have handled the winters here in Colorado with ease. Even the past winter where we had a blizzard that dumped 3 1/2 ft of snow then it stayed around for like 1 1/2 weeks after. I was able to just drive through it. I even pulled out a few people (yes I am quite proud of it). For what I am using my truck for which is quite a bit of highway and really rough dirt roads and minor trails they are a good tire for the $$.

Thanks that was my main question and concern. I am going to buy the lift, might be a little bit, hopefully before winter truly hits. But we will see, I do have a baby on the way!! And csutke I could definetly use the help thanks!! I might start buying the parts individually. I was thinking of getting kyb struts up front not sure of the shocks for the back maybe bilsteins, then AC's coils. Do I need anything else?

Thanks for the replies so far. I do want the lift, I just was not sure if it affected highway driving to the extent that I would regret getting it. I have not done any research on air lift bags. I know of a couple people who installed them on their big fords so they could pull real heavy goosneck trailer filled with foundation forms but that is all I know about them. Could somebody explain them to me ina bit of detail? And maybe how they coincide with the lift? Because now that I think about it I am presently toting a bunch of gear and will be carrying more in the future. Please keep the ideas coming!!

Yeah there is definitely something suspect with my guage then. I drove with the gas light on for i believe 37 miles actually trying to run out of gas (I was trying to figure out how far a full tank would go being driven very easy on the skinny pedal) I had my 5 gallon gas tank with me. I made it to like 306 miles with the needle burried and the gas light on. I gave up and filled up and it only took like 17 galllons wtf? was there seriously like almost 4 gallons left? Well I guess I would have been getting like 20-21 mpg. that has never happened afaik.

Ok as the title says I am looking for opinions here is my situation. I have a 97 R50 XE pretty much stock with 31x10.50 BFG's. I'm a geological consultant and I work on oil rigs out in the boonies. This job requires me to use my own vehicle. So far not a big deal but these rigs are in truly remote locations. And getting to them has already required 4x4 more than once. It also requires quite a bit of highway driving as well depending on where I have to go. I have wanted to put a lift on my truck for a while now but having a child 2 years ago and now another on the way has postponed that. This job looks much more promising as far as me being able to modify my truck. I am not sure whether I would go with the AC 2" or OME lift. The question is with the highway driving would it be worth it to get lift tires etc or would it bu a dumb idea. I already get some crappy gas mileage so that is not a major concern. One thing to think about it during the winter I have been told the trails to get to some of these rigs in the rocky's can be horrible. I already know I will need some chains. So what do you guys think? And which lift would you recommend if I do lift the truck. All your responses are truly appreciated.

Can we do a poll for R50's next?

Mine was sitting for 9 days until today and she fired right up but when I do let it sit it fires up fast then the rpm's drop low for like 1-2 seconds. By low i mean they drop to like 600rpms not low enough to stall but just lower than usual.

Yeah as slick said loosen the belts and take them off then I believe you have to take off teh idler pulleys if you havent already. But I am not positive as your working on a 3.0vg and mine was the 3.3vg in an R50 I just do not know if and what the differences would be. If I recall I took off both idler pulleys, you will know when you take off the water pump as it might make a mess when you pop the seal and all the left over coolant in the motor comes out. definietely replace the water pump thermostat coolant bypass hose and belt tensioner. And ofcourse you will replace the seals if youare changing the cams. Oh and be careful taking off the crank pulley! If you already have then dont worry about what I said. I broke one of the grooves on mine and had to buy a new one.

Good luck on the cam job. The t-belt should go smooth the worst part for me was the stupid crankshaft bold. You will know it because you try to losen it and the whole crank turns. Some people have taken out the starter and wedged something in the flywheel so everything does not turn but I did it another way. I can tell ya how if you need it but I have a safety meeting to go to now so maybe a bit later.

Cool, clean out the fins and flush out your radiator real good now that you ahve it out. use low presssure water so you dont bend the fins. Oh and have a beer it helps trust me

Ok glad you have calmed down a bit. Once you get teh fan shroud out, the radiator out,and the fan and fan clutch off. then you will take off the timing belt covers once those are off everything is exposed and you will see that there is more than enough room to do the t-belt job. As far as the camshaft I have never replaced them so I dont know. How much did you pay for bothyour euro spec cams? Also what else are you changing beside the t-belt?

No no, the fan shroud is in two pieces look down around the middle and it should be clipped together I got underneath and unclipped it then just jiggle it around and you should be able to get it. I know it is frustrating but just keep trying.

Are you replaceing the actual camshafts?? Or the camshaft seals? If your just changing the seals then once you take our the radiator you have enough room to work on everything trust me. How far have you gotten now? If you have had trouble with the radiator dont get discouraged when you get to the crankshaft bolt just post up your progresss and somebody will be here to help ya out. I will keep checking this thread periodically as I dont have much goin on right now.

Dont give up it is really not that hard. Have you printed up the write-up found on this site? Originally from "Post Deleted, Sorry.. I don't know how to delete the post"

That's scandalous (spelling?) uncc but I like your thinking. pawn shop is just a good way to get some cordless tools for cheap too. I got my 18v dewalt there with 2 batteries (one kinda sucks and does not hold a charge very well) for 65 bucks. And it has done every job I have needed it to with no problem.

Craftsman steal tool chest at home Craftsman plastic set of 188 pc 3/8,1/4,1/2 metric and "americana" rachets, Along with a "doctors type bag" of mis craftsman stuff like screwdrivers,plyers, duct tape, JB weld. I did have problem with the plastic case in that your sockets would fall out of place if turned over the wrong way and it would rattle a bit but I just cut a piece of carpet to match the shape and all is perfect it does not make any sound even if you shake it violently. If you cant tell I like craftsmen stuff as if it breaks take it to sears and get a new one. Like Dan said though for one time deals harbor freight awesome.

If his sway bar needs new bushing already then there is a deeper problem.

That's weird mikeysentra, my 97 is just about to hit 132,000. Anyway can you hear your squeal if your just reving up your engine in N? If not then i would suspect something along the lines of wheel bearings but I could be wrong as I do not have much experience in that department. Try spraying belt dressing on all your belts then take it above 40 and see if you can hear anything.I have just notice a annoying squeal when I am going under 10 mph it started after my last trip to train in TX. JB3829, I doubt your timing belt is squealing just because it has notches that mesh with your crank and cam pulleys but stranger things have happened. When you say your belts are tight.. how tight are they? can you deflect them at all? because belts can squeal when too tight too. Mine did when I first replaced them and I losened them up just a bit and they were fine.

Might wanna change your fuel filter too.

Ok I went out and checked my pulleys I can move mine like maybe 1/8 of an inch or so. So compare that to how much play you have in yours. Then if you have the same amount of play your either ok or we both have bad bearings in the idler pulleys... Have you heard any squealing lately?

My wife

Good lord I hope they would not put a 2.4 in a pathfinder. Atleast not a gas powererd one. I know they put diesels in them overseas maybe that is the 2.4 your thinking about. If you did put a 2.4 ltr gas engine in an R50 Granny would be passing you in her hoveround all day long.

Off the top of my head I would not think there is any play in them if the belt is on there with tension.