zonianbrat

Just had the rotors replaced less than 20,000miles ago along with new brakes. No shaking when applying the brakes just when I go between 60 and 70. And it seems like when I hit soft turns going that fast in the canyons you can feel and hear it better (it is kinda hard to explain but I can hear it too kind of like I had some serious mudders or something like a wa wa wa wa wa.

Thanks for the replies. I think it is a balance issue too. As far as dust on the pads it might be as all the jobs I drive too are on caliche dirt roads. This job I am on is the worst as we are drilling with air and not mud you would not believe the dust. I can not tell what color my truck is right now. But this problem has been there awhile. The squeal is at low speeds after 8-12 hour trips. And since I have not personally checked out the bearings I think that is where it is coming from. I would just do all this work myself but it looks like I might only get 3 days off this time so I want to spend time with my little girl and preggy wife instead. Simon I will take your advice and just have whatever shop I stop at check for tire movement up-down and side to side. I will be taking it to Sam's club as that is where I bought the tires and rotate and balancing is free. So these days off I will get balance-rotate maybe alignment done even though she tracks perfectly. Actually now that I think about it my rear driver tire is showing a tiny bit more wear than the other three. I have gotten them rotated and balanced every 7500 miles so I am not sure why that would be. Next time I get some time off I will get teh bearings and probably some other stuff done. Any suggestions on what other front end stuff should be replaced along with bearings?

That was my plan too red. Noise remains while brake pedal is depressed so I really think it is wheel bearings. I would replace them instead of repacking them. My uncle had one seize up on his van once. So I figure I do not know how old they are and they are not expensive. If in-fact that is what is squealing it means she is pretty much dry. But I do need to research the issue more. Seems like the squeal is only after long trips of highway driving. Thanks Red.

Ok quickly searched to no evail as to my specific problem. I have been doing alot of traveling lately. Over the last couple of trips to TX I have noticed a slight "shimmy or shaking/vibration) in th steering wheel. This last trip from TX to NM I noticed it is getting worse. I have also noticed a bit of a woble noise kinda deal from the front tires. The steering wheel starts shaking right at 60 mph at its worst the hole truck kinda shakes at 65 mph. Below 60 the truck is rides great no shaking/pulling of any sorts. Then at 60 it the wheel starts shaking 65 you can feel a shimmy in the whole truck, then at 70+ it seems to plain out and ride smoothe again. Do you guys think this is a balance issue? If not what else do you guys think it could be? It only happens between 60-70! I have to replace the bearings too I think as after a long trip when I am driving slow I get a slight squeal from the drivers front (brakes are pretty new and last time I checked they were fine so they are not causing the squealing. I am going to be heading home for only like 2 days. I gotta change the oil and I was going to have it balanced and aligned. I would get bearings and some other front end work done if I had more time but I dont. Any opinions are appreciated.

Just call any brake shop around town. Most usually have them in stock and can tell you what size they are.

Have you checked your spare tire air pressure lately.

I think it would be better if it had some sort of cowling included but nevertheless it might be a good deal. I have an electric fan out of a taurus that I have not installed yet. I would do a search on here with the topic of electric fans and compare what the cfm on taurus fans are etc.

Air hog has almost the same wire mish that K&N has but the Air hog is more of a darker orange where as the K&N looks like a deeper red to purple. If it does not have that wire mesh then it is not K&N or Air Hog. No worries though about air flow. If it was designed to be an air filter then it should have enough air flow for your truck plus it does not even look dirty yet.

Yeah but that was "GM" back in the 80's Alot of what they did were miserable failures. I believe with the right research and some $ you can do it better.

You should get the dimmensions of that!! I want one

In my opinion it kinda depends on what your using your truck for and how worn out are your old tires. If you wheel alot then I'd say buying a 5th is a good investment. On the other hand if you just do highway and city driving and your old tires still have decent tread left then just use one of those.

I would start by taking the radiator out yourself and flushing the system. It could still be anumber of things but that is a place to start and it is easy. While it is out you can inspect the fins flush it out etc. Then you might as well replace the hoses while it is out. Does the temp go down any when your riding along and you turn on the heater?

Yeah mine does not have the screw in the top but the I do need the bottom gromet.

Thanks 88, I figured that but I just wanted some reasurrence.

Just wondering if anybody has any literature or a blown-up view of what the side marker assembly is where and how it connects to the truck. Reason I ask is like 3 years ago I rolled my truck on it's side so the doors and front fender had to be replaced. Well the work was done quite well I am satisfied but I recently took a road trip and noticed that my side marker was hanging on by the bulb and wires. I had to totally remove it and I got to looking at it and tried to see if it just popped out, but it turns out that when you go to put it into the fender (for lack of better term) the bottom stub thingy is supposed to go into some kind of gromet or something I presume but when I went to install it I looked and there is a big hole instead of the gromet thingy. I just assume it is a gromet but am not sure since it is not there. So my light will not stay in I have to get a new side marker lens anyway since I had to rip it off and when I did I broke the molding that attaches it at the top. Before I get flamed and told to just take out the passenger side to look I litteraly do not have the time. I am working on location and it would not be a good thing if I was out working on my truck when I should be creating logs etc. It is just not a good idea.The search function did not help much So I am asking for help here. That way when I finally do go home I will know what I need exactly. So does anybody know what this gromet type thing is I need to hold on the bottom stub portion of the side marker light? Thanks

I have been driving in alot of hilly terrain lately and she has been getting around 15-16 mpg. So Dan, you think the snorkel has really helped out your mpg? Well there is a good reason to get one. I was not going to get one since I usually avoid river crossings, lakes, ponds that come up to the door because A I like my interior and do not want it ot stick like poo B I do not want to hydrolock. I might have to do some research and find your how-to and part # on your snorkel install Dan.

I drove for 2 1/2 hours without an alternator charging once.

Just tonight I have been checking into this myself. I am in the middle of nowhere but the rural highway has mile markers and I determined tonight that my odo is exactly 1/10 of a mile off or 10%. I am running 31x10.50 BFG At's. And I also have a 97 XE 4x4 with 132,000 miles.

You might try emailing "Runnerman" as he is Black Panther. I have not heard any updates in a while but last I heard he was going to keep making the skids. I sure hope so I want some soon too. I heard that AC's skids suck-a-big-one. But, if that is all we can get then it is better than nothing. Let us know if you do manage to get in touch with him.

Congrats!! We should have had you take copius notes and pics so you could have done a write-up. Oh well no worries. So you can really tell the difference in power? Is it that noticable? I might need to look into doing this soon.

X2 If your worried about the ride put on some new shocks and struts that are built for comfort. Then get some spongy road tires with big honkin' sidewalls. Then if your still not satisfied do a front end job with TRE's, bushings new ball joints, etc. It'll cost ya quite a bit of $ to do a front end job if you dont do it yourself. But after that she should ride real nice. I need to get all that stuff mentioned above done to my truck...

The orange sticker is from Nissan and I would recommend only using LSD oil. Now worth ruining the diff.

Kinda like the snake-oil of spark plugs> I just bought spark plugs so I am not going to be the guinea pig.

Just a shot in the dark here but I would guess cluster. I am having an intermitent problem with mine. When I go over really bumpy things at a slow rate like cattle guards my speedo and odometer will quit working for a while. Usually I can hit the dash and it comes back so I think it is my cluster. I have never checked to see if the cruise works when this happens though. Plus I have a R50 so I do not know how much difference there is in the cluster wiring etc. But I just thought I would give ya my .02.

www.automotivecustomizers.com is your place to order the coils for the 2" lift. You can shop around to find out what kind of struts and rear shocks. I plan on using KYB struts up front and maybe some bilsteins in the back. Good luck and keep us updated.