GoPathyGo

$750 is bs. I got the same quote from a local Midas. You can cut the resonator off and straight pipe it without any problems. I ran it like that for a couple of months before I got an exhaust. I didn't notice too much difference but these things are subjective. An exhaust on R50s should be straightforward. 1 Y-pipe, available anywhere. 1 Muffler. I used a Super 44. $90 at Amazon with free shipping. 1 section of exhaust pipe, available anywhere including your local auto store. I used 2" width. 1 reasonably competent welder. Whole thing, soup to nuts, cost me $250 at a local independent. There was/is a noticeable difference.

02SilverPathy bought mine. They rock. Made by a local shop called Appalachian Offroad (www.appalachianoffroad.com). May want to ask him for his opinion. Mine cost like $450 I think. Rocky Road also makes a set but their turnaround time is spotty, their customer service doesn't get rave reviews and one guy ripped his right off the truck when he got stuck on a root. Though that may have been because he used self-tapping screws to drill into the frame. (Mine used pre-drilled frame bolt holes and were secured with washers and nuts.)

Google Nissan Pathfinder fender. You can get primered ones for under $60. It's pretty plug and play in concept. In reality, a number of those tabs/screws may be stuck and a real pain to get out. I found it easier to remove the tabs with the wheels off. OEM replacement plastic splash shields are <$20 at factorynissanparts.com so I just ripped the drivers side ones off. Wanted the tiny extra fraction of an inch for the larger tires. The fender itself unbolts from a few spots, all easily visible. I know newegg.com well, having built 2-3 computers using parts from them. But Pathy Fender Flares ??? http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/20036641...es-_-2003664180

Heck, for the amount of money involved, I'd take it apart myself and see what was wrong. If it couldn't be fixed, I'd put a used tranny in. Sure, it's a pain. But $3,400 buys me a lot of advil!

$3400 ? And they decide this without even doing an in-depth diagnosis ? Just a "Oh, there's a noise from the tranny. Eh, why bother investigating. Just replace the whole thing." Are you kidding me ???? For that kind of dough I'd get a used tranny and wait for it to fall off.

What're you all so worried about ?? The purty lil white letters will get muddy and dirty ? Awwww... My vote's white outside and muddy, dirty and scratch the *(&(# out of 'em. It says,"I am a bada**" in a hairy-chested, gravelly-voiced manner. I think I put too much Jack in my coke...

WHAT ??? Why didn't anyone tell me ????

Are the frames welded or bolted together ? I could understand higher rigidity with the former, not sure about the latter...

I nominate the diagram to be pinned. Worth several thousand words.

x5 on the comments above. Positive camber has been known to occur after the AC springs are installed. Happened to me, too. I wouldn't worry about it. But DEFINITELY get it aligned at a good shop. I wasted $69 at Pep Boys. Took it to a stealership and it came out very close to straight. You don't have to go to a stealer, but definitely a good shop.

New is always nicer. But look at the bright side - with the $150 you save over buying new, you could buy a 2nd set of used! Besides, suppose something else goes and now you have a non-working Pathy with brand new struts that only fit it ? Not that I'd know anything about that kind of situation. *cough*

Oh, how many miles do you have on right now ?

Try www.car-part.com for salvage yards across the US. If you're lucky, you may find a salvage yard in your area that has it. Given it's a 1996 and we have had this infatuation with new cars drilled into us by the manufacturers and marketers, 1996 is now considered "old" so parts are cheaper. A quick search revealed some for $50 apiece. Some of the listings are shills designed to get you to call but many are real. I've had good luck with the site.

75W90 is often manual tranny fluid. Depending on the truck and the diff, 75W140 is often used for diffs. Tranny fluid change intervals vary depending on make, model, who you ask, time of day, phase of moon etc. I've seen everything from 15,000 miles (24,000 km) for heavy use cars to 30,000 miles or more. What about clutch fluid ?

When was the last tranny fluid and clutch fluid change ? Not saying that's the cause, just useful info to have as we narrow it down.

Oh I know. It wasn't really directed at you. You're too chilled out for me to have takent aht seriously.

Costco Kirkland Dish soap for 90% of things. Orange Boraxo for Herculiner.

Wow, this thread really went off the rails fast. I don't even know who's arguing about what anymore. Comparing an H1 to an H3 is comparing apples to oranges. One is a military-derived vehicle that debuted with a massive turbo-diesel engine (TORQUE, folks) that put out cr*p hp but has outstanding features like parts of the drivetrain and tranny mounted inside the cab for maximum clearance, the ability to ford 30 inches of water/climb a 60% grade/climb a 22-inch vertical wall/make it through a 40% side grade fully loaded, central tire inflation system, axle shafts mounted towards the TOP of the hubs (for additional clearance) and a very powerful diesel engine. The H3 is built off the GM Colorado pickup platform. Yeah, it's been gussied up and made more "offroad oriented" but saying it is able to navigate trails the H1 cannot is not particularly relevant. Why ? Because the core of the H1 was built for the ARMY and they have COMBAT ENGINEERING BATTALIONS. That means THIS: (Yes, those tiny stick figures in the foreground are people.) The whole "VG or VQ" thing is impossible to resolve using the highly sophisticated "butt dynometer" tool. The widely accepted method of comparing 2 engines from a power perspective is to graph their respective torque curves. If you want to use more exotic things like how much oil your truck consumes, that's up to you but is not empirical or valid unless you're trying to save $1 on oil changes. (And Adam, if your truck uses ZERO quarts in 5k miles, get a new odometer.) WD21 vs R50. Let's not kid ourselves here. One is a body-on-frame vehicle. The other is a unibody with a carlike (not coil-over shock) front suspension and no true frame. Whether you prefer one or another is up to you. Let's leave the whole "I like my car so I will defend it to the death" thing out of this.

Jesus... Not in 20 years would I have dreamed that one up. Wow. How stable is it ?

What's a frame stack ?

Sorry, just a poor joke caused by lack of food. Ignore those posts. Do NOT attempt to put your oil filter in the gas tank. Also, there is no secondary oil filter. Seriously.

Just making sure the secondary oil filter cleans all the gasoline and doesn't allow sludge and carbon buildup to degrade it from 93 octane to 67 octane, which could damage the engine.

Just to be sure, check that it fits in the gas tank before installing it.

x3. I thought about getting another R50 to replace the current one. Also looked at building a cage, SASing and so on. But as others have pointed out, everything is custom and very very expensive as a result. Also, most folks don't have any experience with R50s so they're kinda learning as they go along. Translation: dead-ends and learning curves on your dime. Unless you're like tmorgan, mookie or one of the guys around here with a great deal of experience, skills, access to parts/tools and ba**s, it's hard to do. Just to give you an idea of how expensive an SAS can be, an excellent local shop (who have VERY reasonable prices) would charge $3k on labor alone to do the whole thing soup-to-nuts and do it right. Oh, that quote was for a Tacoma - which has TONS of aftermarket support. At a core level, I learnt the hard way that we can't make up entirely for Nissan's marketing and brand strategy. The WD21 is a tank. I've pulled parts off them and checked them out. Awesome machines. The R50 was meant for a different market and the only path most R51s are going to find is to the mall via the freeway. I don't agree with Nissans decision but it is what it is. For example, 32s on an R50 required considerable trimming, a lift, custom backspacing on the wheels and careful tire selection (not all 32s are equal). By contrast, you can bolt 33s onto a bone-stock 4x4 Tacoma... WHY, NISSAN, WHY ???