GoPathyGo

Free snorkel hole! Just kidding.

Scissor jacks suck. I had one fail as I was lowering my car. Luckily I was turning it by hand; if the handle had been in there I would have likely bust a few bones. Probably a good chance the drums are bent or something on the inside's bent. But as others have pointed out, it's not worth losing sleep over. Avoid driving it till you get a replacement part, check the hub while you're at it, make sure everyhing is tight and then run over the jack a few times.

May be able to use Wrangle rear lift springs to match the front lift from an SFD kit. That's what we ended up doing for my SAS. Took it out on the highway with no problems. I'll see if I can find the specific model and year data. One thing to consider is the driveshaft angle when doing the front and rear.

Wow, I just realized I'm only a week away. Maybe, if I'm lucky, I'll have my Pathy back by then. Doesn't feel like it's been a year!

Just saw this. Really sorry to hear it. But glad you are alive and can tell the tale. As others have said, look into legal action and get expert medical care. But most of all, get well soon man.

Nice!

Hmm... It's possible but usually happens after a lot of wear and tear. You should be able to hear and feel it; balancers that are falling apart will allow vibration and noise. The belt sliding off may or may not be linked. Was the belt properly tensioned ? Were the pulleys tight ? How many miles and how worn are the other components ? Here's a video of a bad balancer. I put the link because the first two comments are just priceless.

Sorry to hear that, man. It's like losing a small furry member of the family. Hang in there.

I've used both the spray and the washer fluid. Only good things to say about them. The washer fluid's been particularly useful in the snow and ice - melts the stuff right off. The wipers seem to be a tossup. I had one pair that did a great job and another pair that were just terrible.

Uh yeah... If the rod end nut is not flush and tight, hundreds of pounds of pressure could be released...

Thanks nunya! Yes, I really am 100. It rocks.

Lose weight, take the Pathy all over the map and stay financially solvent!

Nice gift! Thoughtful. As others have pointed out, 2.4 cfm @ 90 psi with a 12 gallon tank will have the motor running regularly on most (but not all) auto-related tools. I tried an air impact and air ratchet with the 10-gallon compressor they sell at Home Depot. The motor was running all the time. It also got annoying because the tools would run out of air at precisely the wrong moments. If possible, I'd swap it for something with a larger tank AND motor. Craftsman makes a nice 1.5 hp, 30-gallon model that goes on sale from time to time. If you don't mind used, you can usually find 'em cheap. If you have a 240v connection in your garage, you could get a used commercial compressor. Wouldn't have as much life as a new one, but would have a big 60+ gallon tank and, if you're lucky, a 3 or 5 hp engine. Finally, the gas-fired compressors have wicked high output. Small tanks though. If swapping it isn't an option, I'd suggest either the mini-impact or a ratchet. I have a $30 Lowes/Kobalt air ratchet that puts out 45 ft/lb and gets all the medium-duty work done just fine. Really handy for tight spaces, specially in the pathy. If I was getting air tools and ignored compressor size, I'd get Tire inflator (yeah, I know, but just saying...) 3/8" Ratchet 1/2" butterfly impact (really useful for tight spots) Air hammer 1/2" impact Drill Sander Good luck! Air tools rock.

Ah, good to know. I found this on blowouts. Looks like my "slashing" thing was just one of many reasons. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=13

Yeah, a lot of the time things like nails essentially plug the hole they create. It's when you effectively puncture slash a pressurized tire WITHOUT plugging it that you create an imbalance and experience a blowout as the pressurized air rips its way out. Apart from that, treads may separate and then, well, it's just all kinds of things happening at once but blowouts are amongst those things. At least, so it's seemed to me when I've witnessed it happening. I don't know why the tires on semis seem to experience so many blowouts. I've had to dodge 'em a couple of times. Sheer number of miles ? Varying terrain ? Sloppy maintenance ? Reason for edit: clarified the point I was trying to make. Bad pizza and little sleep last night make GPG a fuzzy-headed boy

Howdy! Welcome to NPORA! There's tons of info all over the site. Don't worry about not being able to contribute immediately; all of us started out with little or no knowledge. We have a bunch of members in the NW. As far as parts go, some of us (self included) have had a great experience with Rob over at McKinney Nissan (www.factorynissanparts.com). Hopefully you continue to enjoy the site. Cheers.

All depends on price. For $500, sure why not ? For $5,000... Hmm... How many miles ? Did he wheel it ? When did the t-case bust ? Does the truck look good/bad/ugly otherwise ? That kind of info will help. R50s have dropped in value enough that, depending on where you live, you might find a better candidate nearby. As Fueler points out, it's not the end of the world but more info will help us help you.

The stock air intake is the definition of restrictive. White plastic with small air holes/inlets. I used rubber radiator pipe from (I think) a Chevy HD pickup as a test piece before ordering the steel version. It matched the diameter of the hole in the air box. So it's pretty much as big as you can get without replacing the air box itself.

I bought that snorkel. After a week of trying, I flung said snorkel into a dumpster. Thing is just plain awful. Instructions aren't that helpful. Stuff doesn't line up. You have to drill holes everywhere and it still won't fit. Doesn't come with all the hardware you need. It feels and is the flimsiest cheapest plastic they could find. Oh, did I mention the connection between snorkel and airbox doesn't work ? Like, literally won't fit ? Save your money. Get $100 worth of stainless radiator tube and run it behind the sheetmetal (or outside, if you like) and bring it out near the driver door. The stock airbox has a neat hole for the radiator tube to fit into.

No prob, man. Hope it was fun!

AWESOME! 2 thumbs up!

"rolf" ? See, you don't really need to go anywhere - you can get drunk right at home!

1. Place with most free samples 2. Place with cheapest beer 3. Place with hottest staff 4. Home, cause if it ain't free cheap or free and the staff are ugly, you could just crack open a cold one and make out with your girlfriend...

Dear Santa, All I want for Christmas is World Peace and... What ? You say you've already tried that ? Ok then; here's an alternative list in no particular order. Contribution to NPORA instead of a physical gift. Moderators and SC88Pathy can verify. Pet hair trimmer. Mine was borrowed months ago and never returned! Blu-ray of any/all the Bourne films with Matt Damon. CB radio for the truck (used fine so long as it's in good condition) Anything else you think might be fun or amusing... Signed, GPG. PS: I have been a good boy all day... err year...

I would suggest checking the following and replacing as necessary. (Some of these have been covered above.) While the list seems long, a lot of these can be done fairly quickly visually or by touch. Some, such as the valve cover gaskets, take more time. 1. Belts 2. All hoses 3. Plugs 4. Fluid change (assuming you haven't done this very recently). Oil, tranny, t-case, diffs, brake, coolant and power steering 5. Radiator and fan (leaks, fan clutch bolt) 6. Filters (air, fuel, cabin) 7. CV boots 8. Brakes. Rotors, pads, calipers and hoses 9. Suspension. Ball joints, springs and shocks. Might want to replace these depending on when you last replaced them. 10. Electrical. Alternator and battery. 11. Valve cover gaskets 12. Cams and cylinder heads (if you're replacing 11) 13. Exhaust and heat shields. Visual inspection for leaks, tears and loose clamps and bolts 14. Sheetmetal and body. Visual inspection for rust, specially around the fenders. I'd suggest taking the flares off to see what's going on I'd also suggest running some diagnostics while she's on. See if all the measurements and readings are in line with specs. E.g., vacuum, ignition, voltages etc. This might seem like overkill. But worth doing to get the most out of the next 200k!