GoPathyGo

Hey, I'm planning to head to Rausch this wkdn. Wanna join me ?

Honestly, I didn't experience too much topping out. Maybe in the very first few days when going over stuff. But it's been fine since then. x2 everyone's comments on getting backspacing instead of spacers. Spacers = more stuff to go wrong potentially.

This is the only one I have seen. Sure there are others, though. https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=112

Before I get all fancy, let me go check my work. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=408281

Yeah, maybe I wasn't clear in my original post. I did refill the A/T via the dipstick tube. Think we're good on that. I may be confusing things on the transfer case. Gonna go back, open the hood and check everything to make sure I'm actually remembering everything and didn't just screw it up massively.

It was odd. The dealer (who gave me a stunningly good price on a bunch of replacement stuff) and his techs figured about 6 quarts would be enough for both A/T and All-Mode. BUT the FSM adds up to 9 on mine. Did the dipstick thing last night and it showed solid levels when measured at HOT levels. Gonna measure again tomorrow. May get the additional 3 quarts the FSM suggests tomorrow.

Here's what I got. Nothing up in smoke yet and I've gone through all the tranny/transfer case combos (yes, including reverse in 4Lo), but it was only changed last night... God willing, things go well.

Oh yeah, mine was def thirsty. I actually need to go get 3 more quarts of the stuff. Might be a VQ35 thing. My SM's for an 03 and it doesn't always have VG-specific stuff. It's like there are sections where they forgot to delete or include the VG33 info... Here's a pic for informational purposes:

x2. I rounded up to $200.

Oooohhh, nice! Lifts are a few hundred bucks at AC. GIT-R-DONE!

I'm going with the Nissan Service Manual on this one. Matic-D fluid for both. Filled from the same spot for both. I have the push-button All-Mode. Checking All-mode 4WD Transfer Fluid NAMA0047 Check for oil leakage and fluid level. A/T fluid is used for the all-mode 4WD transfer in the factory. Never start engine while checking fluid level. Filler plug: : 10 - 20 N·m (1.0 - 2.0 kg-m, 87 - 174 in-lb) SMA444B Changing All-mode 4WD Transfer Fluid NAMA0048 When changing all-mode 4WD transfer fluid completely, A/T fluid may be used. Fluid grade: NISSAN Matic “D” (Continental U.S. and Alaska) or Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid Refer to “Fluids and Lubricants”, “RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS”, MA-12. Fluid capacity: 3.0 (3-1/8 US qt, 2-5/8 Imp qt) I think, as 94extreme said, it's a bit different on M/T and part-time 4WD Checking M/T Oil NAMA0021 Check for oil leakage and oil level. Never start engine while checking oil level. Filler plug: : 25 - 34 N·m (2.5 - 3.5 kg-m, 18 - 25 ft-lb) Changing M/T Oil NAMA0022 1. Drain oil from drain plug and refill with new gear oil. 2. Check oil level. Oil grade and viscosity: API GL-4. Refer to “Fluids and Lubricants”, “RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS”, MA-12. Oil capacity: 5.1 (10-3/4 US pt, 9 Imp pt) Drain plug: : 25 - 34 N·m (2.5 - 3.5 kg-m, 18 - 25 ft-lb) CHASSIS AND BODY MAINTENANCE Checking Exhaust System MA- SMA439B Checking Part Time 4WD Transfer Fluid NAMA0026 Check for fluid leakage and fluid level. A/T fluid is used for the transfer in the factory. Never start engine while checking fluid level. Filler plug: : 25 - 34 N·m (2.5 - 3.5 kg-m, 18 - 25 ft-lb) SMA444B Changing Part Time 4WD Transfer Fluid NAMA0027 When changing transfer fluid completely, A/T fluid may be used. Fluid grade: NISSAN Matic “D” (Continental U.S. and Alaska) or Canada NISSAN Automatic Transmission Fluid or API GL-4. Refer to “Fluids and Lubricants”, “RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS”, MA-12. Fluid capacity: 2.2 (2-3/8 US qt, 2 Imp qt) Drain plug: : 25 - 34 N·m (2.5 - 3.5 kg-m, 18 - 25 ft-lb)

Welcome! Would suggest using the search feature. Most/all of those issues have been discussed - many in mind-numbing detail! If you don't find answers, feel free to post up again.

At $200 parts I wouldn't call em "cheap"... I now just keep a stack of remanufactured/salvage CVs. $90 apiece.

In my (limited) experience with Nissan's system, you have to essentially be at a dead stop and switch to Neutral before engaging 4Lo. The Auto tranny and the 4WD system share the same transmission fluid. Have you checked the transmission fluid level recently or flushed it anytime recently ? Just wondering if you're low on fluid and turning the engine on and off is giving it just enough extra startup oomph to engage. Dunno. Just a wild guess. May be a stupid idea.

One of the few items I'd suggest calling a dealer or Nissan NA about...

Mmmm... I dunno about that. He was on 38s and one of the reasons I didn't wade in was the air box...

That sucks, man. Maybe your mechanic should pay 75% of the cost for being a COMPLETE MORON!

$1,000 for an ALTERNATOR ??? I hope that's in Zimbabwe dollars. If it's in USD, have a friend bring a used one in a suitcase! Even if you pay 200% duty, it's less than $500...

IFS Except for a very small number of situations, I think you'll find IFS will serve you just fine on the trail. It requires more care and skill than the "1 gazillion inch tires on titanium super unobtanium solid axles" brute force approach, but for some folks, like me, that's half the fun. Folks here have done Moab and the Rubicon on IFS. It's fashionable to trash IFS. I say,"Baloney!" My $0.02.

Yeah, that or, if you don't want to worry about water while wheeling, get a snorkel!

on starting the thread. I learned a lot reading it. Sounds like your R50 is in the same condition mine was when I got it - you could press the strut down by hand and it wouldn't rebound! My experience was that stock worked post-lift so long as you didn't go much beyond the OE height/width. E.g., I had wheels with 4.25" backspacing, 255 width tires and a total height of approx 30". Stock width on my Pathfinder tires was 255 and stock height was 29" apprx Once I went to 31" and 32" tires, though, it was a different story. Rubbing everywhere and the tire was practically sitting on top of the strut. Shifting to 3" and 3.125" backspacing - which accomplishes the same thing from a distance to Hub and strut perspective as spacers - solved a lot of problems. Still had problems rubbing the plastic on the bumper and the front fenders. A set of heavy-duty clippers and an angle grinder solved that problem. Now, about those 34s...

I watched 'em swap out my audio stuff twice and messed with it myself. Depends on what you're changing. There is nothing special about the Bose system. There are 2 sets of components. Hardware - speakers, head unit, amp etc Wiring - connects the hardware together. You can change individual components without changing the wiring, just like you can replace the battery, headlights and taillights in your car without having to pull the entire main wiring harness apart. Head units are typically easy changes and fairly plug and play. Crutchfield will sell head units with adapter kits that will help connect everything up and snap into the dash for a factory look. You could also just buy the dash adapter kit or have a shop build you one. I had a double-DIN unit installed last night and they did a custom adapter. Any decent audio shop will have blanks, ABS plastic, a bench grinder and a file - which is basically what you need to create a custom adapter. Cost me like $20 or something. You DO have to mess with the wiring IF you change the Bose amp for something more exotic, add a subwoofer, add additional speakers etc. But this is NOT a very complicated task. Running the wiring is easy - requires popping plastic trim pieces and takes sometime but is not tough. If you're going to the trouble and expense of replacing the head unit, I would suggest spending the extra money if you can and getting new speakers and a new amp. It makes a big difference (Bose system is weak sauce, IMHO) and you can get quality components without breaking the bank. Audio swaps have become so standard and competition is so fierce that you can now get flat-rate pricing. Try crutchfield.com for components and adapter kits. Try installcard.com to buy a flat-rate card and get a list of shops in your area that accept install cards. I used it and found an awesome shop that I now use for all my electrical needs. They did a double-din install and a dual battery install last night. Hope this helps. Good luck. - GPG.

Yeah. Some of the items are very cool but a bit exotic and may only appeal to a very small group. My suggestions, in no particular order: 1. Lightweight swing-out tire carrier that doesn't kill visibility. The WD21 carriers and a lot of factory carriers are heavy and/or not set up for offroad tires. 2. Boxed front/rear bolt-in bumpers with winch plates. Nothing fancy or uber-expensive. Solid and functional. Heck, you could even just sell the blueprints and let folks find local shops. 3. True heavy-duty CVs. Maybe something cryo treated ? 4. SFD kit for R50s. Thanks, GPG.

Depending on how you use it, the 350z would be a fun swap. You're gonna have to pull the engine and drop one in so heck yea. Same corporate engine but different tuning and a few different parts. As laxman says, you could buy the replacements pretty easily and retune it. May not be as great if you do a lot of wheeling, though, since that thing revs even higher than our trucks. But you can solve the rev problem - and a whole lot of other ones that we don't even know we have - by tapping the huge Z aftermarket pool and, oh, maybe bolting a supercharger on... *cough*