GoPathyGo

Ah good to know. I don't mind paying something but $20 for 24 hours ? OUCH! The Tradebits thing I got seems to be the factory one. Very useful learning tool for me.

Hi, I ended up using 2 bulbs. One behind the Speedo and one behind the Tach. Autolumination just calls 'em 5-LED bulbs. So far, no probs at all. SuperBrightLEDs.com also has 3-LED bulbs that are almost but not quite as bright. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Forget it, kid. I had noticed your attitude earlier, but you had what seemed to be some interesting points so I still read 'em. This kind of immature personal attack confirms I should just skip your posts. Fortunately, for every person like you, there are dozens of mature, helpful folks on here - including many much younger than you. You keep doing your thing and feeling puffy. Cheers and have a great day.

An excellent question! When I got back home and saw what was going on I was like," ???? ". Going back to the shop this am.

My point simply was that the guy should have been tipped off and done a professional job and that camber matters. That I started grumbling a bit is admittedly besides the point. And grow up. Adults don't spend their time insulting folks on bulletin boards; they try to be helpful. If you can't be civil, don't bother saying anything.

I just had my AC lift installed. No camber bolts. Both 255s and 235s (which are a good 10 MM NARROWER than stock) have serious positive camber issues. The bolts are clearly critical. I'm going to have to take it back to the shop which put the 235s on. I don't get how they didn't check it. Guy even said,"You know it's creaking a bit ?" Yeah, it's creaking 'cause it's OFF CAMBER and there are no WHEEL SPACERS. *sigh* I was a in rush so I didn't stop to think about or check. Figured they were professionals. Yeah... Right... Incidentally, had an alignment done at Pep Boys and that didn't help the rub issue. This seems like one of the things where you'll have to tell the mechanic what to look for instead of him figuring it out or being professional and checking his work.

I've been trying to find the Nissan Service manuals. Called the 800 numbers. Prices run from $75-$185 depending on year, dealer status blah blah. After I finished choking, I did a bit of research. 1. Authorized Service Manuals from Nissan can be "viewed online" at www.nissan-techinfo.com. This site carries manuals for 2000+ model years. Company called (I'm not making this up) Tweddle Litho at 800-450-9491. But prices are really really high. $20 for a 1-day viewing! Older manuals are available from 800-247-5321 2. Downloadable PDFs are available online from a variety of sources. $20 gets you pretty much any kind of factory (not Haynes/Chilton/knockoff) service manual you want for any make, model and year. Try tradebits.com Download window is open for 72 hours. HTH, GPG.

Ok, so I have new and potentially important (from an electrical point of view) info. Asked about the bulbs at Nissan dealer today (was there for some other stuff). There are TWO different instrument bulb types for the 03 Pathfinder. The Brown Base for the Turn Signals and Full Beam uses a 74 Bulb but is rated at 1.4 W The Black Base for everything else is rated at 3 W. Luckily he had a pair of Black Base ones in stock. I took a look and, amazingly, the bulbs detached from the socket easily. Bizarrely, the Brown Base costs $18 (dealer price) and the Black Base $5. Both with bulbs! I bought 6! Maybe this is why that guys board started smoking ? He overloaded the bulbs or something ? I don't know. I guess it doesn't matter as much with LEDs (which are low power draw anyway) but may be important for incandescents.

Cool. Yup, I only used one package. That's because the odo bulb in my pathfinder works fine. For reference: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wc...|GRPLAMPAMS____ That's what the bulb should look like. It should be in a teal colored pack. 2 bulbs/pack. Big fat 74 in white written on it. Pulling the bulbs from the twist lock bases was a (*&$#(*#&%(R@ So I jury-rigged a solution. The bases in my Pathfinder had two colors. 3 Brown Bases held the Fullbeam, Left and Right Turn signal bulbs (up top behind the Fullbeam and Turn Signal lights, right where'd you expect 'em). 3 Black Bases - 2 for general gauge illumination (basically set towards the top of the Speedo and Tach) and 1 down near the Odo. For some bizarre reason, the bulbs were practically cemented to the Black Bases but pulled out really easily from the Brown Bases. They looked the same and I didn't read anything alarming online. So I just swapped 'em. Brown Bases went behind the Speedo and Tach, complete with the spiffy new LEDs, while Black Bases went behind the Fullbeam and Turn Signal lights with the original bulbs still in there. There was enough light left in the Black Bases and the Fullbeam/Turn Signal bulbs are small enough that it didn't really matter that those bulbs were kinda dim. That was my setup. You may have to experiment a bit to see which bulbs pop out of the bases easily and which are practically glued into place. Then just swap 'em around and see what happens. So far, no smoke or problems in my setup... Good luck. Let us know how it goes. Cheers, GPG.

Flowmaster's Delta Flow may be a candidate. I'm going to local shop tomorrow to have them see if we can do it. http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/products...roducts_id=3372

Yup, the white is the incandescent bulbs. Got those for something like $3/pair at Advance Auto Parts. Sylvania 74 in a teal-colored package. Pep Boys and Autozone carry them too. They were way brighter than my 6 year old stock bulbs. If you want colored #74 bulbs, Autolumination has 'em for $0.99 each.

What he said. If you just want to lift it, you don't need to Solid Axle Swap (SAS). If you want to do hard-core offroading, a solid axle swap, a mild lift and some good tires should be plenty unless you're doing competition stuff. Keep in mind ride and handling change a LOT with height, especially on such a compact truck... If by "have a lot of trucks" you mean you can pull from salvage or very old trucks, I'd suggest being careful. Some of those parts may not be in great condition... I guess the point of all this babbling is: what exactly is your goal ? We can probably help more if we understood the goal.

Who was Colonel Fred ? Different from the KFC Colonel, I hope ??? Thanks for clearing that up. One of the rare occasions google was no help.

Hey, thanks man! Donations or invitations to parties with attractive single young women should be sent to this address... I've learnt a lot from this site - as recently as this weekend, when I got an annoying Check Engine Light. So I post these things as a way of giving back. Right now it's just small fluff stuff. The real project I'm going for is a CV joint replacement. The parts aren't that expensive - and it's a heck of a lot of cheaper and easier than busting it on the trail. Picked up a Haynes manual at Advance yesterday and trying to get up the nerve to do it. Should be fun! Will post pics once that's done.

Ok, so today I tried the Autolumination 5 LED, the LEDWholesalers.com 3 LED, Sylvania Incadescents (available at any auto parts store) and SuperBrightLEDs.com 3LED lights. As you can see, the 5LEDs were plenty bright. Lit up the entire gauge cluster. The Incandescents were very very impressive. In fact, I'm going to see if I can find colored Incandescents cheap. See 5LED vs Incandescent below: The SuperBrightLED.com 3 LED lights were impressive and easily beat the pants off the Autolumination 3LED. But they eventually lost to the Autolumination 5LED. Still, a good fight. (Autolum 5LED on left, illuminating speedo and fuel, while SuperBrightLED.com is on right.) LEDWHolesalers.com units were DoA. Overall winner: Autolumination, with the SuperBrightLED.com a close second. Incandescents totally different category but great showing. I also swapped my dome light for an LED. While not as bright as the incandescent, you would be amazed by the heat given off by the incandescent. My dome light assembly is thanking me right now! Cheers, GPG.

Maybe it's an R50/VQ35 thing. The K&N Filter just gave me fits - literally! Installed a week to 10 days ago. Seemed to work great. First warm air rolled in today. 85 degrees+ in the DC area. We all know what happens when air heats up - it expands and fuel/air management becomes even more important. Whether that was the cause or just a simple coincidence is not clear to me. Started the Pathfinder up, loaded the wheel&tire combo I sold on eBay and headed to UPS. All fine. Exited UPS and the engine suddenly refuses to go over 2,500 rpm. Every time I get up to 2,500 RPM it cuts out and the Pathfinder jerks back and forth. Check Engine Light comes on. Drove back home. Tried starting and restarting several times. No dice. Drove around the house several times - still cutting out above 2,500 rpm. The way it was throttling back made me think about that filter. Swapped the stock filter in - thank God I didn't throw that thing away! At first, seemed like I hadn't diagnosed it correctly. Still herky-jerky. Stopped by Pep Boys, picked up the Scan tool I'd been intending to buy for months now and sure enough - Code 1130. Reset and voila! I have driven another 50 miles and not a peep. Pathfinder is zipping along in different modes (2WD, Full-time, 4Hi) and different RPMs (800-4,000). This is apparently quite a common problem with VQ35s. A search on Nissan 2,500 rpm or 2,000 rpm produces problems in Altimas, Maximas etc. While there are any number of causes for the problems other folks have been having, from filters to ignition coils, the sheer number seems to emphasize the sensitivity of the fuel/air management in the engine. BTW, I found an exceptionally helpful DTC list for Pathfinders: http://www.pathyoffroad.com/ Don't know who built this site but it rocks! Time to RMA that K&N junk. Cheers, GPG.

And what is a Fred Chair ???

I had a similar experience with 255s. Require enough flex and the brackets will bend. I have a little bit of bumper damage on the passenger side from a berm. One of the reasons I'm going with pizza cutters (235/85s) is to get my Pathfinder as high off the ground as possible (eliminating the whole bracket thing) without going to 265s (rub issues and so on). There are other reasons but this was one of 'em. For reference, a 235/85 will get you essentially the same rubber height as a 265/75 - 7.86" vs 7.82" on the wider tire - and essentially the same overall height as a 265/75 - 31.7" vs 31.6" on the wider tire. Sure, it doesn't look as cool but for my purposes - mud, burrowing through stuff, lower rolling resistance, reduced rotating mass, easier on steering components blah blah blah - it works. But for purposes where wider IS better - wider contact patch and so on - the 265s are the way to go. All depends on your priorities. As an aside, this is an interesting thread on toyotanation.com on tires. Putting aside all the various biases, some useful info. Check out Post #6 - not sure I agree with everything but brings up some points to think about. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=270268 Also on 4wd.com. I particularly like Posts #5 and #6. http://jeep-forums.4wd.com/showthread.php?p=147500 Cheers, GPG.

Hmm. Is the clock an Infiniti thing, like the Qx4 having more bulbs than the Pathfinder ? The clock I unscrewed definitely didn't have any LEDs in it. I was really disappointed about that.

Ok, so I have more info on the whole dash/light thing. I saw a lot when they swapped my stereo today. Unfortunately, I forgot my digital camera at home. DORK! Oh well. 1. The CD+Head unit, auto climate control module and clock are actually pretty easy to remove. Things are just stiff and you need to be careful. Essentially, you pop off the top clock+vent (which is one piece). There will be two screws anchoring the audio stack. Unscrew these. Pop the auto climate control stack carefully and then the audio stack. This is going to be stiff, but just be careful and patient. Disconnect wires at back and voila - the audio stack, clock+vent and climate control are now in your hands. 2. The bad news. The clock itself is a sealed unit. I couldn't see any LEDs at the back. I unscrewed it from the vent trim piece and it looks like the only way to open it would require literally disassembling it. So you're stuck with green unless you can find an alternative digital clock 3. The Climate Control stack looks like it uses 2 small LEDs with blue bases. These seem to be the same twist-lock type in the instrument cluster, but I didn't remove these since I was there in observer status. 4. The 6-CD+Head unit is one integrated piece and it looks like this too is sealed. I didn't see LEDs but checking again. So you may be stuck with green on this one too, unless you swap the head unit. Hope this helps, Thanks.

Sux dude Really sorry to hear that. Any way you can load it up with a bunch of stuff and get the height down for next time ? I don't get why they care about height anyway... Big deal...

Cool thanks. I bought the 3-led bulbs from Autolumination. I'm going to try out the 5-LED bulbs and a couple of other vendors as well. (At $2-$4/bulb, they're cheap enough to do some experimenting.) Hopefully I'll find ones that'll be bright enough to light up the whole gauge cluster.

Sorry edicer2. Wish I could be more help. First Nissan so not experienced like the others. Maybe Fueler or the others can provide more help.

Thanks guys. I think I'm gonna end up going with a low-tech rear hitch carrier. Cheap and best! Will know for sure once the winch is installed etc etc.

Wow! Nice. Who's your insurance company ?