GoPathyGo

In the States ? They came off the showroom floors with 30s, 31s etc Never saw 35s standard or as an option over here.

Lift her. They are awesome machines but, for some truly bizarre reason, MB sells 'em with solid axles F&R, 3 locking diffs and LOW ground clearance. Get a 2"-4" lift, slap some tires on her and you are good to go. BTW, the core design on those didn't really change till the late 90s. That's when MB started gussying it up and converted it into a luxo cruiser to cash in on the 1990s/2000s SUV boom here in the US. They stuffed the US-bound ones with MB V8s, superchargers, COMAND electronics blah blah in. Lots more stuff to go wrong. Fortunately, with an early 90s model, you're getting a no-nonsense bruising off-roader. These things were originally designed as military vehicles and were built in collaboration with Steyer-Puch of Austria, the folks who brought you the Halflander and Pinzgauer. Right now, they're built by Magna Steyr, still in Austria. Enjoy!

"Smartbar"... "SmartBRA" is more like it. Pushup bra for cars..

Just adding my $0.02 that Steevo's service continues to be outstanding. Picked up a locker from him yesterday. :02:

Nice. Factorynissanparts.com can probably also hook you up.

I think folks, self included, are referring to the relationship of the overall width of the tire to the wheel width, not manufacturer recommended width. While the manufacturer has a minimum specified size of 7.5", I think folks are saying 8" is probably a safer bet.

I used to leave a car at a friend's. He got to drive it once in a while, I got the parking I desperately needed. Parking is more precious than water around here sometimes. In any event, good luck.

Um, you don't want to worry about damage to the doors and debris hitting the doors so you're going to cut them in half ? What happens when you worry about going bald ? I found a way to check the wheel position without having to cut the door in half. Apparently, R50s have this glass thing that can move up and down. They call it a "window". Maybe it wasn't an option back in the day. Ok, smartass jokes over. I like your original idea of just keeping a pair of spares. But hey, whatever floats your boat man. Post up some pics when it's done. Donor car not too far away, assuming you don't mind going deep into Buckeye territory. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=402120

I have new BFG ATs and they are NOT great on wet pavement. Just the nature of the tread design. The best wet tire I ever drove was this: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...=Eagle+F1+GS-D3 And it has a unidirectional V tread, which is great to counter hydroplaning. Pumps water out like no one's business. As you can see, it uh looks nothing like the BFG tread. But it totally sucks at anything but rainy (not snowy or icy) conditions and dry pavement. Advantage BFGs.

Yeah. In my experience, 2" or more each side starts to push it a bit and makes things quite dependent on the subtleties of the tire. For example, if the tire bulges a lot or has a very aggressive tread, it could wear badly or make you worry about stability/fitment. Handling won't be great either. Not saying it can't be done. But if you're going to the expense of nice new tires, swapping the existing wheels for wider ones might not be a bad idea. Plus, if you get wider wheels now and decide to go to 34s or 35s later, you won't have to worry about wheels.

I dunno. Maybe LE models are different but I had strut clearance issues with 4.25" BS wheels after the AC lift. Also, big time rubbing on the front fenders. Dropping to a 30" wheel cut the strut problem a bit but still left a lot of rubbing on the front fenders AND the bumper. Switched to 3" BS on a 16x7 wheel. That eliminated the strut problem entirely. Lots of room between strut and tire now. But STILL had front fender and bumper rub problems. Switching to KYBs from Rancho helped a teeny amount. But it was only after I basically halved the front fenders and cut like 1/4" off the bumper that I could get stuff to fit without rubbing. 32s right now (265/75 16) with a less aggressive tread pattern than earlier (BFG AT vs Wrangler MT/R). Front isn't a prob but now the rear fender rubs a bit at one particular angle. No way I can get 33s or 35s on without trimming more bumper (maybe another 0.5" - 1") and trimming rear fender (at least 0.5" off one spot). So not sure how everyone else here is getting 17x9s and 15x10s and stuff. Maybe it's an LE thing or a stock bumper thing. Who knows.

Brembo rotors Amazon had the best price when I was looking. $70 I think. I have the pads 4x4Parts sends out. Don't remember the brand... EBC maybe ? Grip isn't that great, specially now that a few thousand miles have gone by. When these wear (and they WILL wear, given how much the Pathy weighs now and given it's a daily driver), I don't plan to get the same pads. Will try Hawk or Akebono instead. Thanks, GPG

4x4Parts uses 5150s. I have em on my truck. No probs with 'em.

Dunno about drugs and stuff, but the R50 has tons of places to hide stuff from thieves. Wouldn't get anything past a dog, x-ray machine or whatever, but I don't advocate that kind of thing anyway. A few I've found while modding the Pathy: 1. Stock front bumper. Space between the front fender and the front of the plastic shroud. Easily accessed with a screwdriver and a few minutes. Not recommended if you're wheeling. 2. Stock rear bumper. You can paste stuff inside the plastic shroud since the stock "bumper" is really just a metal twig underneath the tailgate. Wraparound sections are empty 3. Stock jack area under rear seats 4. Cubby underneath the storage area in rear footwell (opposite amp) 5. In the plastic cover underneath the steering column 6. Underneath the plastic surrounding the gearshift knob. Pop off the trim pieces in front and voila. 7. Behind a 1-din faceplate if you have a 1-din radio and a 2-din slot. Put the faceplate on clips and you can snap it open and shut easily. Looks stock and easily accessed 8. Behind the air vents on either side of the clock in the center dash 9. Behind the plastic covers on the sides of each front footwell. Will only take slim items and requires removing the sill plate first. 5 minute operation with a screwdriver 10. Spare undermount tire carrier area if you've removed your spare.

Yeah, this is definitely not easy. How do I know ? I spent 2 hours at a junkyard today pulling a tire carrier off a WD21! The last bolt was a HUGE pain - twisted and refused to let go. I figured,"No biggie. I'll just go around back via the taillights or underneath via the bumper and tweak itt." HA! There's no easy way to reach those brackets. There are metal plates everywhere, the screw holes are threaded and they will not let go easily. No way to get at it without some serious power tools - and we ain't talking a wimpy cordless Dremel here. So I can only imagine what a pain it would be to put that kind of bracing in. Eventually, I hand-sawed through the bolt with a tungsten carbide survival saw. I came away with a lot of respect for the way they built that W21 The good news is I got an absolutely pristine tire carrier. All it needs is a bit of paint. While I have an R50, a post on the custom bumper should provide a nice mounting point. If not, well, they yard next door has an R50 with a factory tire carrier! Backup plan.

$225 for entry level ??? Get one of these instead and add a $50 prepaid card! http://cgi.ebay.com/Iridium-9505-Satellite...93%3A1|294%3A50 On a more helpful note, Cobra has an NZ distributor in Auckland and an Australian distributor in Brisbane. www.cobra.com NZ Dealer is www.advancetrident.com They list a few Cobra models on their website. Also, if they are too expensive, I will gladly buy and ship you a few from here. Just gift wrap a nice Nissan Patrol (the real deal, no toys please) and ship it in return.

Actually this was WITH a set of camber bolts! The good news is that the KYBs + 3" BS + proper alignment seems to have solved the problem. The rubbing's gone - fender trimming eliminated the problem. www.4x4parts.com has camber bolts. Mine came with my lift kit.

I wouldn't call Tyler and my reply "chitchat". He's just a new guy asking a simple, quick question because he may not know the thread structure (though I agree it's kinda weird since it says he's been a member since July but has only 2 posts) and we're throwing suggestions out there. I'd rather give a suggestion and THEN point him to the right thread than say,"Hey schmuck, you're in the wrong section." Dunno about all the light zip tie stuff. That said, I now have KYB front struts, which actually aligned easier than the Ranchos. Weird... Ride is better too. So, now I'm at Year: 2003 LE Springs: AC 2" Front: KYB GR-2 Rear: Bilsteins Tires: 235/85-16 Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar, which have ridiculously aggressive treads. Not swampers but much higher and knobbier than the BFG A/Ts I had. 1 camber bolt each side. Used to rub till I trimmed bumper about 1/4" and cut front fenders in half. No rubbing now.

Tirerack.com is kinda weird with trucks. For some reason, it basically only really shows stock sizes or factory option sizes. For cars, they'll show you more options. I don't know the measurements of your wheel, but I'm sure non-stock tire sizes will fit. So, for example, if yours came with 255/65/16, 245/70/16 will fit. I made those numbers up, but you get the idea. So long as you stay approximately within the overall diameter of your stock tire + wheel and don't get something much wider than the factory tires, you should be fine. You can calculate overall diameter in inches, you can use the following formula: ((Tire width/25.4)*(Aspect ratio aka the 2nd number on your tire in the 255/65/16 formula/100))/2 + Rim diameter. I would bet something BFG/Goodyear would fit your stock wheels. Next time your Jeep friends laugh, congratulate them on their brilliant foresight. Having 2 Jeeps means they can use one for spare parts when stuff begins falling off the other "car". They can also get bulk discounts when parts begin falling off both "cars". I hear Staples gives 10% off cartons of paper clips and glue...

If your goal is resetting a code, suggest going with a code reader and resetter, like XPlorX4 suggested. Those things come in handy anyway. I refuse to pay $40-$80 each time for a "diagnostic" when I can buy a code reader for $30 and get the Nissan codes free off the web! If you don't want to spend the money, negative terminal is way to go - but be aware you'll lose clock, presets etc

Just an FYI since I know we can often have trouble finding good folks to do serious offroad work on Pathys in this area. I think it's easier down south and out west. Anyway, after a lot of searching and checking, I found Appalachian Offroad. They started out doing Jeeps and that's still a big chunk of their work. But they've branched out into other brands and are both knowledgeable enough and willing to do custom work. I found lots of folks willing to do work, but none who seemed to have the necessary knowledge or expertise. These guys participate in King Of Hammers, heavily modify rigs, build from scratch and do everything from routine maintenance to ARB installs to cust fab. Fairly reasonable prices (negotiable depending on how much work you expect to put their way) and extremely friendly and nice. They're 4-wheelers who wrench and fab, basically. Had 'em do a custom bumper for me. Kinda went overboard in my design specs but I was pleased with the product. Check out the bumper. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=399644 If you're interested, feel free to contact 'em directly. http://www.appalachianoffroad.com/

As someone who's taken the entire dash apart himself and watched it be taken apart 3-4 times (lights, electrical work, sheer curiosity) I agree that disconnecting the negative is much easier. While it's relatively easy to get to the fuses - just remove that horribly designed drawer/cubby to the left of steering column, under the light switches - and the OBD II plug, the ECU's harder since it's to the right of the plug. To get room to work in, you'd need to basically unscrew and remove the sill plate, the lower plastic cover and possibly the knee-breaker bracket.

2003 Pathy with AC Lift + 32s (235/85/16). I went with 3" of backspacing. Lots of room now. If you have a stock front bumper, you may need to trim the edge of the bumper and most likely will have to cut the fenders if you want to avoid rubbing. I cut my front fenders in the wheel well in half.

Animals in human skin.

Lower BS number = less rubbing. I have the AC lift and 16x8 wheels with 4.25" BS rubbed like crazy - even with 235 width 32" tires (235/85/16) since the tires were so tall that they rubbed on the upper part of the strut! Doh! Also rubbed on the inner fender when turning. I eventually got steel 16x7 with 3" BS custom made for $70 apiece and had a proper alignment done. Just had the 235s put back on the Pathfinder and there's a lot more room between tire and strut. Still rubs, but now only on a bit of the front fender trim when turning. A few inches of fender trimming should solve that problem. US Wheel has a black 15x8 with the 6x5.5 Nissan bolt pattern and whatever backspacing you want for $67 on summitracing.com. That's a bit less than what I paid for my unpainted 16x8s. Mine arrived within 5-6 days. Would strongly suggest getting an alignment done at a good place after you do the swap and put the new steelies on. My Pep Boys alignment was the fail. Had to pay a 2nd time for dealer alignment - but it was well worth it. Rubbing, camber and steering were all materially improved.