GoPathyGo

Spoke with Warn. Recapped a few notes on my build thread. Let me know what you guys think... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=406060

x2. That site's great. Just be aware there are a lot of shills on it. I wasted an hour checking sites and calling around. BUT I did find a pair of Nissan CVs for like $100 each at a local place via that site. Should be here tomorrow or Wednesday. Now, time to go pull a door or two.

That sux! Fortunately, thanks to the economy, you can get a whole car for a few thousand bucks. Take the engine, keep the rest for parts! http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp;?...leadExists=true

*yawn* This is neat. Now, 'nuff slacking and time to get some exercise in before crashing off to sleep. Cya all later.

Are you being serious ? Even if you are, the way you put it is just hilarious.

Over 15 ? Over 20 ? What the heck are you guys doing ? Getting out and pushing it uphill half the time ??? If I get over 16 I consider it a good day. "Fuel economy" is a gigantic oxymoron when it comes to my Pathfinder.

Ha! I didn't include the tools, winch, recovery straps and so on that I assumed everyone carries. These are basically meant to allow me to trek to the nearest ranger station. The flares and stuff are in case I've broken something and can't really move.

I have on 03 Service Manual. Can send you copies of the suspension pages in pdf if you like. PM me your email address if interested. It's too big to post up on the site. Can email it as an attachment this evening, Thanks, Jaya.

Thanks. So AC spoke with Corbeau. Corbeau's never tried it in an R50 and AC didn't have one handy so couldn't be sure. AC *did* however put the Baja Low Backs online after I asked about 'em. 17 lbs for the whole seat! Headrest if you want it too. They're around $15 cheaper than I could find anywhere else. They also carry the frontier and xterra adapters. Sooo.... tempting.... Must..... resist....

Nice! Those projector beams clearly make a diff. Thanks for the link!

Good to know. AC is checking with Corbeau.

x2 on Rancho. I was NOT impressed with their RSX front struts. KYBs a higher quality product in terms of fit and finish, real-world handling, ride and flex. I don't think anyone makes front struts or rear shocks higher than stock. That's part of the whole "topping out" problem when you get the AC lift. In the 3,000 or so miles I've put on the truck - mostly highway, some mud and a bit of flexing on berms - the Bilsteins have provided a very consistent, smooth ride. Never had any kind of problems with rear compression or with them interfering with axle articulation - and this when on one flex I literally had the tire up against the fender.

PIAA Intense Whites. They run about $40/pair and replace the high&low beam. See my post. You can actually get much brighter bulbs for the light bar. Headlights are limited to 60/55W output. Off-road lights can be much higher. For reference, I have PIAAs running at 85W. This shot shows how bright and white they are. The beams are aimed into the distance but you can see the intensity of the bulbs. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=401647 All HID - factory, retrofit, blah - look lame compared to those. But they are for off-roaduse only. I've actually looked into those things as if I was an oncoming car. It hurts the eyes!

Hey, at least you're honest about the reasons. Here's what my PIAA intense whites look like from inside the truck. I had silverstars a while ago and they sucked. Maybe the technology has improved since then. To oncoming traffic, my Pathfinder looks like it has white halogens. No one will mistake them for HIDs but they are definitely visible.

FYi, since I've had cars with HIDs (from factory and retrofitted), I thought I'd jot down a few notes. The websites can go off on a tangent sometimes. There are basically 2 types of HIDs out there 1. Factory HIDs, which come with self-leveling hardware. These are complex systems. They consist of a motorized mount inside the headlight assembly that communicates with tilt sensors usually/often hooked up to the suspensions of the cars. The sensors detect tilt, lift, dive and so on and the motor adjusts the beam accordingly to prevent the lights from blinding oncoming traffic. In addition, the headlights themselves are projector beam systems which provide a highly focused beam - both providing a lot of light where you need it and avoiding blinding oncoming traffic. They look and functionally are completely different from the standard/old school halogen enclosures. This combination of motorized mounts, sensors and projector beams make it almost impossible to replicate a true factory setup. The best you could do is buy an OEM headlight assembly. But that will not provide the self-leveling function since you won't have the sensors etc. For our purposes, the only OEM assembly with HID is the late-model Qx4 assembly. That goes for over $1,000/side on a replacement basis... 2. HID Bulbs. These are straightforward and simple. There is a bulb with ballast. The bulb uses the standard gas-discharge principle to produce a bright white/blue/blue-white/whatever you want light. That's it. There is no self-leveling and no projector beam. Incidentally, I believe part of the reason an HID bulb never really "looks" like a factory system is because there's no projector beam. This is where a lot of folks get upset - and rightly so. Manufacturers use projector beams for a reason. A standard halogen assembly is designed to scatter a relatively weak, low-lumen light across a wide space. Putting an HID bulb in there is like turbocharging a Geo. Yeah, it'll work but that doesn't mean it's a good idea... My personal opinion is that Danial Stern becomes a bit religious and extreme in railing against it. I also think he's a bit hypocritical because he trashes the HID bulb approach and then offers "one on one advice" and "a careful selection of 'good' lighting products". Whatever, dude. My personal opinion is that there is something to be said for brighter light. It helps you see more and helps you be seen. But that doesn't mean you have to become one of these luxury-car wannabes and get purple- blue-fakeroo lights so you can pretend you're driving a BMW or whatever. A set of bright PIAA/Your favorite brand bulbs will accomplish the "see things better" goal without blinding everyone on the planet and costing a lot of money. Just my $0.02

It never hurts to ask if they'll accept less. After all, current company excluded, how many people could want and afford a $3,000 15 year old DIESEL engine for a PATHFINDER ??? If I was in your shoes, I'd offer 'em $800 and point I owned a Pathfinder AND was prepared to take on all the emissions, legal, registration, titling and oh so many issues. I bet they only see it as a "rare engine" or "an enthusiast's dream" and not "a nightmare to deal with in real life". See what they have to say. I just checked their other listings. No other engine is listed for anything close. They're trying to milk someone. Offer em $500

But think of the ground clearance!!! Why mess about with piddling little "subframe drops" and "suspension lifts" when you can have that ??? "4" lift ? 2" lift ? HA! My Hula Hoop lift laughs in your general direction!"

The race style bucket seats ? I was looking into those. So far, from what I've found, Corbeau (www.corbeau.com) which seems to be one of the biggest manufacturers, doesn't make a bracket kit for the R50. They make one for WD21/Hardbody and (of all things) the 04 Armada. Their "universal kits" basically just attach to the floor pan. In fact, from what I could tell, basically only Jeeps get bolt-in race seats. May have to fab up some adapters. Shouldn't be too hard but I haven't found a straight kit. www.4x4parts.com claims their Corbeaus will fit any Nissan. I plan to call 'em tomorrow and see if they have/can make a mounting kit for the R50.

Very cool. Keep us posted, but don't forget the Pathy in all the excitement about the new toy.

I'm going to try swapping in a Maxima alternator. Hitachi 160 Amp for the 02-03 Maxima and various Murano/Infiniti models. 50% more than my existing 110 Amp Mitsu unit. Schematic looked very similar to the Pathfinder - but then again, it's not like they're going to be massively different. Got a used one cheap (<$100). If it doesn't fit/work, I can always ebay it.

Looks like later Pathfinders have 110 Amp alternators. Alternator NASC0024 Type A3TB4291 MITSUBISHI make Nominal rating 12V-110A Ground polarity Negative Minimum revolution under no-load (When 13.5V is applied) Less than 1,300 rpm Hot output current (When 13.5V is applied) More than 35A/1,300 rpm More than 91A/2,500 rpm More than 110A/5,000 rpm Regulated output voltage 14.1 - 14.7V Minimum length of brush More than 5.00 mm (0.197 in) Brush spring pressure 4.8 - 6.0 N (490 - 610 g, 17.28 - 21.51 oz) Slip ring minimum outer diameter More than 22.1 mm (0.870 in) Rotor (Field coil) resistance 1.7 - 2.1W Probably necessity given some of the interior lights are 10W and the rear turn signal is 27W. Makes me think that switching out for lower-wattage LED bulbs is a cheap way to boost effective capacity. Beats buying another alternator! FYI, the stock battery is 582 CCA with 52 AH capacity. For reference, the biggest non-commercial Optima Yellowtop is 870 CCA and Capacity (C/20 rate) is 55 Ah. Not bad Nissan!

Pathfinder doesn't sound quite as girlie-man as Pathy. Except when my Carpel Tunnel acts up. Then it's Pathy.

They are definitely slow to ship, SPECIALLY on lift kits. I had to email and call regularly to get my stuff. The good news is it all arrived as advertised. Incidentally, if you're buying the lift kit, you may want to look into only getting the coils from them and the struts & rear shocks elsewhere. Their prices on the struts and shocks aren't that great. Amazon, Auto Parts Way and so on all have better prices for the same items.

As a former owner, I can assure you that says more about the Range Rover than the roo. Have your uncle sell that pile and get a nice Patrol, Cruiser or Pathfinder. Then spend the money he saves on Fosters. (Fosters keeps assuring us here in the States that only Australian beer is worth drinking and Fosters is the only true Australian beer.)

If you aren't too picky, you can get one for <$30k. But for that kind of money, you could get a Pathfinder/Xterra, lift it, ARB lock it F&R, put some nice tires on it and pass Gs all day long without worrying about parts or stuff breaking. Oh wait, that's what I'm doing. Still. those Gs are great machines.