Casey.T

Jared, May your family be blessed with all the goodness you have brought into our world...

Check the connections at the starter, also the clam shell positive wire has been an on going issue. just a little corrosion in the connections at the clam shell can drive you insane for months.

I have the Calmini 3" kit, only thing i dont like is the Squeak... I would suggest if you go with Calmini, have the UCA drilled Tapped and add a grease zerk fitting... the RC UCA's come with the Zerk installed. I too liked the fact it was a Kit... UCA's, T-bars are a little stiff, rear springs and drop down bracket.... I might go as far as to suggest using the original T-bars...

I remember having a H2O gasket fail on my 95(was not me that installed it) similar problems with the occasional leak. Found fluid dripping out the timing cover and behind it.... I know slick remembers the phone call that night and me with the wrong timing belt...

Thats where my front bumper started :tonguefinger: few minor mods

Please note your sig pic.... and I showed you that spot last time it was in the garage for the starter.....

thats a good one.... suggest to them that the next time they do something like that, go with the Zebra instead....

This is on the 95, but theres not alot of differences from the MAF to the Pop Charger.... Still have to transfer mine to the 91 and re-install the original air box in the 95.... for the mounting bracket, i used an existing hole in the wheel well under the air box... bend the bracket to fit and clearance the hood...

If you dont change it, the extra stress can cause the waterpump bearing to fail... then your tearing the front end apart again anyways...

not recomended.... major accident waiting to happen if you drive without it....

If the tensioner is to tight, the belt will WHINE like a B!tch.... it could be as simple as a bad belt, it does happen once in a blue moon... Having had a belt come apart on me, id say it was too loose, the how too has a great way of setting the tension... hope that it did not eat the Valves...

Wrong Coast....

hehehehehehe :tonguefinger:

Been there done that, next....

check the oil sending unit on the passenger side above the starter(look through the front passenger wheel well)

look at the snout of the Water pump on the bottom side, theres a little hole... there is also the Upper By-Pass hose(Slick) From the looks of it, you got coolant on the timing belt, If you pull the pump your going to need to pull the belt to get to the pump... its not that bad of a process... just takes patients and a Harmonic Balancer Puller...

^^^ pretty much covers it, but did you also change the Timing belt???? If you swapped in a new timing belt, the timing may need to be adjusted... turn the dizzy all the way one way see if it will start, then back around the other way... More details if you need em...

You can swap cranks... I have all the same junk Uncc has... Max VG30E swap to a Pathfinder... Oil pan and pick up, dipstick swap on the bottom, Max timing cover and H2O Pump (no hole on the bottom for the lower pathy timing cover) use the Max Heads, Pathy Valve Covers and everything else up is the Pathy.... intake, plenum ect.... Swap the fly wheels as well. I got my JDM from Import Auto in Lynnwood... Short drive for you... you will still most likely have to swap ^^^^

Best and easiest way.... Go buy new starter with warranty and have them bench test it in front of you, before you leave the store, remove old starter, replace with new starter...... Follow directions i have typed out several times on this forum.... return old starter for core fee.... now wasnt that easy....

Starter swap... 10 maybe 15 min depending on attire.... Must remove watch 1st and for most...

Holy Missing Chunks.... Ya that would make some wierd noises...

My little front end noise was from part of the Air Box. When I installed the JWT PopCharger, I did not completely remove all of the Air Box, specifically the plastic part that goes into the drivers quarter panel... took me a long time to figure out what was making that horific rattling sound.... Once removed no more strange font end noise.

Stevens County does not require Emissions... but I do feel your pain, my 95 is having a similar issue with some sputtering but not giving me any codes. I have until the end of May to resolve mine, Spokane County does require Emissions... At first I thought it was going from Oxegenated Gas back to the summer mix, does this every year...

more concerned about the Oil Leak... Just above and a little behind the starter is the Oil Sending Unit... they have been known to blow... One of my many starter changes is directly related to that leaking... You can see it between the fender well and the frame... but cant get to it unless you got a body lift.... When it leaks, it is very obvious while your running....

Is so... Just ask the Cheeze Whiz that could not swap out the tires because the center hole did not align the other 6 with the studs....