unccpathfinder

I got mine from SteevO and was very pleased Now I just need to get my steel and weld my bumpers...

thought about it but with a roll down window...kinda like fords and 4runners but i think it'd be too much work and would def be a custom gate

you only have to get a safety inspection...they will (maybe not) check the tires...if you're not showing cord i'd day you're alright...you can shop around for someone to get you to pass...just stop at a station and ask them if they can tell you if you'll fail or not...usually the lincoln head on a penny is a good gauge to whether you're good or not... my 87 hasnt been inspected in 3 years...let me know how big the fines are for it not being inspected for so long and has it been registered and plated the entire time it hasnt been inspected? I heard they just redid a lot of the DMV stuff (just found a late fee from my buddy here that was 12 years ago and he was able to get a FL and CA license but he just tried to get a bike permit and this surfaced) and I think they just redid the inspection "stickers" which will not let me renew my plates without getting it inspected...which is a BIG problem for me being here in CA... I know i used to pull in with my 87 and 95 they'd honk the horn, turn on the lights, hit the brakes and turn signals check off the entire check list and throw the sticker on the window...i only had a full out inspection done once after I got smart with the guy about not passing emissions...once he found out it wasnt a OBDII he went through it with a fine tooth comb including checking the headlight alignment and "loose" wheel bearings but found nothing but an exhaust leak which he couldnt do anything about

yep remove the cover and i reached in from the right side of center and felt blindly until i grabbed the wire that made the light flicker while i had the door closed...once it did i pulled it off...i could never see it...sometimes while offroading i'll sometimes see the lights flash on which tells me that wire is coming into contact with the old contact (or grounding out) but its never more tahn just a quick flahs and i've only noticed it about 2 or 3 times in the past few months

as a replacement panel not a lot of people want to replace it with rock rash... but this could be considered mall crawling...and is why the pass side rockers are flat

maybe push the key all the way in and tap gently or if you have something that vibrates pretty violently maybe like a jitterbug (sander) and if it were stuck tumblers maybe the vibrations will get them to go down and let the key out

did u try turnign the steering wheel back and forth while trying to remove it...it sounds like the lock to keep the key in the ignition may have messed up as you mentioned...you may try starting the car and truning it back off to see if that does anything...

i'm with 87...if the cam sprocket slipped you probably bent some valves...do a compression check and that should let you know if you have a bent valve...another good sign would be to smell the exhaust and if it smells like unburnt fuel the chances are you're either way out of time or have a bent valve...I have a couple sets of heads if that is the case and we could work something out

sounds like some chafed wires or a sticking switch to me...

yea look like the AC UCA's i have that still havent been comfortable in installing...so for now UBJ fell the pain...i've actually been thinking about building my own based off of them or doing some bulking up of these

my 87 and 95 both light up and stay on once out of 2hi...once back in 2hi as soon as you roll either direction the light should go off

i didnt extend my ebrake cable...just adjusted it...

remove the lower dash...2 screws in the lower RH and LH corners then there are 2 more screws on the black bezel then there are 4 screws on the cluster then 4 connectors to remove on the back side that should do it for ya

with the BL you will need to "stretch" the coils out but its not a big deal

If it was out of time and the valve hit the piston...after hte 1st hit you won't hear the impact anymore....it bends the valve and it doesnt touch the piston anymore...I had 3 bent valves and no noise but it was well under powered... Other than that I really cant tell what is making the noise and I can suggest pulling off all the accessory belts and cranking it to see if the noise is still there...don't run it very long like that b/c you will drain the battery down and could over heat it but thats like 5-10 mins or more...but if you pull all the belts and don't have the noise then its related to one of the accessories...if its still there i'd try to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from and if its coming from the timing belt cover i'd go ahead and pull it and check the tensioner...

uhh n ot sure what you mean by try it without the belt but if you pull the TB and turn it over you're going to be rebuilding the heads again...

my rockers are no longer in good shape...they're kinda flat now...

Beast...what I did was followed the molding for the #1 plug to the electrode on the inside of the cap and put the dizzy so the rotor was right before #1...i actually think that little brass colored dot is where the rotor should be but don't hold me to that... if the timing marks don't exactly line up with the timing belt cover marks and is like a tooth off dont worry about it as long as you have the right number of teeth between the cam to cam and cam to crank...those timing marks are for quick reference only (well thats what i refer to them as) and the teeth count is what matters

I used the OEM nissan one from my engine kit and it worked fine with my thorleys...if you search I think you can find what most people use with their headers maybe they're felpro? I havent had any leaks yet with my OEM gaskets and thorleys but I've only gone about 400 miles

maybe its the seal on the freeze plug?

i've got some rear doors but shipping would be unrealistic...

cap probably got wet...maybe a hole in the cat/mffler (i packed my old exhaust with mud accidentally b/c it had a hole in it and restricted the flow)...i know after a lot of splashing around in my 87 it would be low on power and after about 5-10 miles of driving it would start acting right and i'm pretty sure it was due to wet ignition parts

Thanks B Hmm i wonder if they will let me use my "lifetime warranty" on my RS5000's as an upgrade...i highly doubt it

So I need to get some long travel shocks for the 87 now that I have the lift on...just curious if there are some WD specific LTS or what do most people run to get more flex out of the rear (dont think the front matters too much). If there is another thread with the info i missed it and if someone would kindly post it i'd appreciate it. I'm thinking I may need to fab up some coil spring retainers as well

cool once you get pix up i'll get some of mine and if they'll work we can work something out