unccpathfinder

^ what he said

I won't go into someones box but will ask first...no shame in my game

Even with 0 fluid that far this wouldn't be a huge issue...prob a separate issue

If u r willing to pay..I'm sure steevo would get u setup with a front h233b

Typically if the light doesn't come on its under pressure...check all connections...ESP at the firewall...mine would stay charged all summer till the temps cooled...never found the leak until I pulled the AC and found those lines loose

Same frame....86.5-95 minus material changes

Large chamfers towards the cups

The d21 will also have leafs in the rear and no buckets for the 5 link in the wd21 iirc

I know a lokrite in a Chevy rear end is noisy

Napa batteries should come from us batteries...those r pretty good batteries...I know from data I've seen they r better than the Trojans and most agm batteries but these were in 48 and 72v ev setups...I just use whatever is cheap at the parts store and typically don't have issues for the 3 year life cycle

Id guess relief cuts in the pistons...iirc the interference is only like .040- .060

Not bad...except being under the intake BC that is a pita.. I prob should have mentioned this earlier but u did change the water pump, cam seals etc? This would be the time to do it...I would now change the all valve seals and replace the valves on #4...since you have a compression tester I'm sure u can put pressure in 1 3 and 5 to change those seals on the vehicle Also a pm coming ure way

I'm no electrician but id say That's fine...I mean .3v over a night isn't bad? Maybe just try to Google around

Bend it..or drill and tap and cut threads on the other end if u have access to a lathe...cut and weld... or hb shifter

http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=527839&an=0&page=4#Post527839 My swap...

Pm me if u need some helpful pointers and i can potentially give u my # or email to help u through it

I wouldn't consider bent valves a major repair...or even a hard repair to complete...i broke a TB when i was 18 or 19...bent 3 valves...I replaced the belt originally BC my mechanic friend has seen several folks get lucky and not bend anything but it is extremely rare....I rebuilt the top end with the gf at the times dad in 3 days, including waiting on parts...we dumped like $300 in parts/tools...engine stayed in the truck and really wasn't bad...intimidating yes but pretty easy

Yep...basically should look like that...

Nice dash

My 87 and the ole lady's 95 have issues with the passenger side front door

I can do it in 2-3 hrs....out of both trucks and the swap into the new 1....entirely too much practice... Quick run down... Side defrost vents out radio trim out glove box and back out RH lower trim out rH a pillar trim out Lh a pillar out Lower lh cover out bottom center out cluster bezel out Cluster out with harnesses (connects to Lh side if u have cruise but a screw behind that vent anyways Other center bezel out (screw behind Ac switch and ash tray) AC cables and panel suck to removed and install Defrost vents out screws for dash out (defrost vents and behind cluster) Think that's about it... donno if this helps. http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=527839&an=0&page=4#Post527839 This May help but prob not http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z48/unccpathfinder/95%20teardown/

Fsm

Hmm I didn't have anything ran thru there...in fact at 1 time I had the 87 MT harness and the 95 AT harness in the truck and nothing thru. That hole

http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=527839&an=0&page=4#Post527839

If it were me I wouldn't rewire anything...i would just either jump the shift interlock or take it to the clutch interlock...go find my 95 to 87 swap on 4x4 parts...I put auto into my MT...i can't remember all the details as that was about 5 or 6 years ago...just remember KISS keep it simple stupid