unccpathfinder

if u don't jumper it (or connect it to the clutch interlock) the truck will not crank...its the "switch" that lets the starter relay get power so you can't start an AT in gear

that or the ABS valve is trapping air (had that trouble with a 94 pathy before)

also check your rear shoes (if it has shoes) and make sure they are adjusted correctly...I did a camry not too long ago and bled it for like 3 days and had the same thing your going through and I checked one side and it was good...anotehr guy came over and checked the other side and it wasn't adjusted...he adjusted and bam full pedal...I guess the same is true too for very worn pads...she also had no front brakes and the LR would lock up but all of the fluid was running to the RR and there wasnt enough to create enough hydraulic pressure to clamp the front calipers

Heres my writeup i did on 4x4parts.com on 9/25/05.

it could be that the vin plate was pre stamped but actually rolled off the assembly line prior to its scheduled build day...b/c i know we always had different build days on the line than what was supposed to come off that day...sometimes ahead and sometimes behind

tie rod ends...check out some of 88's posts on them...mine arent near that bad but i can see they are starting to yield

from the pic to me it looked like there may be some sag in the Tbars and if the issue was on both sides so it could very well be a combination of toe and camber IE cranking the T bars gives you negative camber and eventually affects toe b/c the TRE's start to sag/bend (I think making it toe in) so without looking at the truck it could be a simple camber issue or toe issue but I didnt see how old the tires are and know that I wore my old tires on the outside from a t bar crank...it was probably maybe at a 20% higher rate on the outside than the inside and my toe is was good but i need to check it b/c i noticed the other day my TRE's are starting to bend

you may start baking the paint on the hood but other than that it should be alright

if he cranks the TB's won't that help adjust some of the camber issues? b/c I know with cranked Tbars you do a lil \-/

Check www.ruggedrocksoffroad.com.

Chaos, most waterjets can take an .IGS file and make the part. You should be able to export from solidworks or unigraphics to an .igs...I think you need to make sure it's in drawing space (2d) for it to work tho.

LMAO...or get a new gf...and that's a lot of work for the payoff...and I've honestly never had a gf complain about the console being in the way

i'm sure you could still do a floor mounted e brake cable or even the dash brake cable but do some custom cable and routing to maek it go through the same place the original did...

I haven't done it, thought about it but realized it would be a PITA to get people or cargo in and out of the back seat in the 2 door Nunya pretty much has the plan that I would take and I'm pretty sure most of these mounting holes cross over between the HB and Pathy b/c they don't typically engineer things to be different but similar across the same chassis (which is why i have the 95 dash in my 87) as well as the front clip between the HB's and Pathys (4wd versions anyways)

I was 16 when I got my 87 and drove it like it was a stock car (hell i still do)...it had 192k on it...the engine was broke at 250k (after surviving a timing belt break at 225) and was still running just had dropped trash in the engine on a spark plug change so it was knocking and still convinced i should have ground it off and i'd still have the original engine in it I bought my 95 from my cousin with 105k on it and in about a year i put almost 50k on it b/c i had a 700 mile commute per week which didnt include weekend trips and what not...I once again drove the piss out of it and it handled it well even with its syncro problems which seem to be worse in my 95 than my 87 but I don't know what the maintainence schedules were on either of them but I do know my 87 was well maintained by the guy that i bought it from and so was the 95 but the 95 had receipts from jiffy lube for the transmission fluid changes (i dont trust their work or their fluids) so that's what I blame my 95 driveline issues on

did you prime the oil pump? and i'm sure you will get all kinds of smells/smoke from grease/oil whatever on exhaust parts and gaskets "burning in" but the noise is definitely a problem

That's all a matter of who drove it 1st you keeping the 2 door or selling it? Yea I think the Tcases in the newer ones are weaker...at least I heard the chain was more narrow and more prone to stretching out...the 95 case in my 87 right now slips in 4lo on a hill climb pretty good...or at least thats what i think all the horrible noises are coming from... newer pathy's have more rust issues...my 95 has some up front under the battery and a lil under the rear seats but my 87 has none...well now a lil on the rear body but it is 8 years older than the 95...the MPFI is a little harder to work on as well (at least spark plugs and valve cover gaskets)

i've only used seafoam in my gas...my buddy ran it in his passport to solve lifter tick and it was only like 1/2 a can every 6k miles... check for codes and maybe you just got some bad gas...

I never noticed how hot the floorboard got until I got rid of all my carpet and even with the 3" body lift the right foot gets a bit toasty...I think the headers may have magnified the heat but I don't have holes in the floorboards from it but I would think a simple home made heat shield with some C clamps would surfice...I know that's what I did on the pipe when I worked for FTL when we had an issue with temps with 2007 emissions being too high near the rear suspension (air bags for the air ride) during a regen cycle something similar to this (pretty much formed sheet metal with 2 "bridges" to space it off of the pipe and 2 worm clamps): (that pic is the heat shield on a 2007 emissions duramax)

mine was the 1262 off the line...the last numbers in the VIN ID that IIRC I'll have to check my build date but i know it was in 86 I checked...its 7/86

From what I gather most of the CFC's wont see a JY...they will get crushed... But I also know that there have been a lot of dealerships that didnt put the silicate or whatever in the engine b/c they realized they weren't getting their $ and weren't going to trash all of these cars...I think it's probably one of the stupidest programs that could have ever been formulated The concept was alright to get people to boost sales in the automotive industry but to trash perfectly good cars that could either be resold or parted out AKA recycled in a useful manner (other than smelting them)...granted some of the clunkers were destined to the crusher anyways...makes me think of that RARE maserati that had like 20k miles on it but i'm sure the dealer opted to eat the CFC and keep that car I know the dealership my buddy worked at about a week ago did something over 1400 CFC's and they had seen the $ for 4 cars and from his understanding if the govt doesnt come through with the $ that gets tacked back onto the people's bill and will make many of the cars unaffordable for people. I haven't researched it but that's what I heard from a few buddies that work at dealerships

did you get my message the other day with my phone # in it? I don't have internet at the new house yet so if you get in a bind it may be better to just give me a quick call rather than waiting for me to check PMs or FB on my phone If you can't find a clutch pedal let me know...I have one...you really don't need the switch on the clutch unless you hook the interlock from the auto trans to the clutch pedal

or pull up late at night in the rain... I would love to come but I'm going hunting on Sat and hopefully getting all of my parts in order, installed and the 33's on the truck on sun/mon

depends on your tastes...my 87 always had whites out...then i got my cousins 95 and didnt like the black wheels with blacks out...it wasn't worth the $ to change it...it's grown on me and my 33's will be going with the blacks out

87....