unccpathfinder

i know areva has ties with a plant in Brazil already... Link to their site locations

my heat shields used to rattle at specific RPMs

i donno how all that foreign stuff works but it should have a ID plate on the driver side door jamb that states a bunch of useful info

hmm not aware of that outter piece i know which 1 ure talking about but i dont believe either of my trucks have it and from the pic on the FSM it seems like they're seperate but i donno...u might also have to loosen up that plastic piece around the window latch but i think it can be done without loosening (i never did it) i may would try to get at them with a screwdriver for some leverage but i have a good feel on when im about to break something so i always go to that line and stop if u have a good feel on when something is gonna break then i wouldnt worry about it too much and the clips should break B4 the actual trim but i did manage to crack 1 of my panels but i was in a rush and pulled it the wrong way (it was like the 6th time i had everything out doing speaker/cb wiring)

theres 2 screws in the bottom right? other than that its just those crappy plastic body clips (i believe) my 87's cracked when the guy B4 me pulled it off for something so i yanked the whole thing out b/c it kept on coming loose too with those crappy clips

if u can get to the old wires and clip them at the head unit and can tie the new speaker wire to it and pull it thru (or get/rent 1 of those things that electricians/ethernet folks have that is pretty rigid and in a coil and u can feed it thru and then pull the wires back to u that way if theres enough room) that that might save from pulling some panels but i havent done this so i dont really know the location of the amps and what not

ohh yea...i did forget 1 thing i pulled my gate off to fix the rust up at the top and didnt line it up really good so if u can get it unlocked pushdown with ure weight on the tailgate with the glass opened and pull the handle...b/c if not mine wont open it didnt happen right after i finished it but when it got cold out it started doing that... Check PMs...

hell yea piss off the neighbors...mine actually called me up and had me over for dinner on friday night b/c i was cutting the fender flares with the dremel and they were having a cookout and it was annoying the @!*% outta them so they were like dude we got food come on over between burnouts, doughnuts, loud classic rock, air compressors and the ammount of banging coming from my driveway/garage i dont think very many of my neighbors care for us but some think its cool and can score easy repairs for $

ohh man lemmie see if i can explain this 1......my 87 quit working for the locking mechanism...so i open the glass then reach in (panel is off as well) and on the right side towards the bottom theres a lever that kinda looks like this | | | |____ ........| ........| ........| ........| (note the periods are blank space for some reason it alligned everything to the left so u couldnt get the idea of the shape) its a lil below the linkage for the handle if u push that down (unlocks the tailgate) u should be able to open it using the handle...it takes some practice but now i can pop open the glass reach in and without feeling for it hit it and open it up this might help a lil more although now i realized i misread the post -thnkboutit- ....hope it helps but doesnt seem like it will go with the PB

b/c my roommate has no confidence in my mechanic ability and he put a cam (after trying to drive it to atlanta and then turn around and drive it back the guy who did it messed it up completly and the dealer redid it for like $3k after i advised him not to do it) in his car but neglected to do vavle springs so he's going down I-85 running about 80 and it starts running like crap so he manages to make it back to the house well under power...i told him it sounds like u dropped a valve lets pull the valve covers and inspect but he said no i got to reading around on google and found that it was prob a broken valve spring and it wasnt getting piston slap so i told him we could do it in an afternoon and if the head needed some work then we could either get a new 1 or whatever...to make a long story short(er) he paid a F-body shop to pull the valve cover look at it and tell him he broke a spring charged him $500 it sat there for a month B4 they even looked at it then he bought a motor from ohio paid the dealership like $3-4k to put it in and we got the old 1 in the back of his dads minivan and i told him i wanted to show him how easy it was and how much $ he coulda saved come to find out he broke a valve guide and spring which he had bought the right springs to replace them so it woulda taken maybe a day at the machine shop to press 1 out and then another day to throw the head/intake/exhaust back on...but hey if his (parents) wallet is that deep then i guess it doesnt matter

i donno much about the automatics but if it were me and it was grinding pretty bad i prob wouldnt get it

gimmie about 2 hrs and i'll have it completly stripped heh...took a grandprix motor apart in the back of a minivan in less than an hr it was awsome i've taken the radiator and all that crap off i can get to the water pump in about 45 mins get it all back on and together in about 4 total...im really quick in taking things apart but putting them back together i tend to take my time and dont get in any big rush... also the beers have been adding up by now so that slows down the pace

well my buddy has a 2000 mustang and at the time i asked him when he had his oil changed last and he goes "u have to do that, i just add oil when its low" there was 40k on the odometer...car still runs like champ i would be interested to see the heads and what kinda sludge they have but i have heard in newer cars and with mobil 1 synthetic of people going 5k but i dont think i'd do it in my truck i've heard people say only change ure oil filter every other time so that'd be 6k but im not gonna try that 1 either

couldnt this be bad for the paint moreso the heat gun than the hair dryer...esp if u held it in 1 place too long

im thinking make some sort of quick disconnect type deal maybe like trailer light harnesses that have like 6 or 7 wires in them (not really sure how many are in our doors) but some sort of quick diconnect would be cool i think esp if u could make it work so it'd snap in the door jamb and not interfer with the doors motion..... or just completly relocate the hinges so that they go say 270 degrees and they'll flip up and secure onto the roof of the pathy and just extend the wiring harnesses to fit half doors or tube doors...

no im not sure they're not locked but i've seen some pix where the least loaded tires were just spinning... i've always wanted a deuce and a half as well...theres a big 1 down on the coast that he drives out there and tows out stuck folks and that thing is awsome i've heard they're great in sand/mud but horrible in the snow

well i'd def think u'd have to drop in a huge desiel if it'd fit humvees are tough tho...my buddies dad's got dropped from like 200ft from a chinook when a cable broke loose and the idiot piolot cut it loose when it was top down instead of wheels down but the next day they had a new top on it and were riding again just always thought they were cool runnin on those huge superswampers with the 15ft ham radio antenna and like a foot or 2 of ground clearance

I've always been kind of intreaged by the ground clearance the humvee's had around bragg and they run 4WIS and don't seem to get stuck a whole lot...the only problem i've seen with them is they aren't locked so they can sometimes get the wheel spin where its not desired which i think that can be fixed... i also know that the drivetrain is a lil crazy if i recall the way run is the driveshafts come in on the top side and drives a gear or on the acutal wheel or something to that effect so the transmission actually has 4 reverse gears and 1 forwards gear (if u referenced it to a normal tranny)...which i think this would pose the biggest problem but i think it could be worked around in a normal truck just not have as much ground clearance b/c the hogheads would be lower by about 6-9 ins so i was kind of wondering if any1 had tried to build an IRS for our trucks and if so would it be worth it and/or give you advantages over SAS i think that it'd be interesting

thats not a bad deal at all...i wish things like that would happen for me

i agree its too big...heres what i came up with

heck yea...i made mine using cardboard as cutouts for a template then got some cooregated walkway crap from home depot traced it out...let the gf cut it out and attached it with stanless screws/bolts thru the stock holes i think i spent maybe $10

i think the tiny holes are just the oil jets for ure heads (cams/lifters/rockers) and i believe the big holes are the coolants but i could be mistaken...if i go home tonight i can take a look at my vg30 thats sitting on the engine stand... but heres a pic of the heads and intakes some1 might be able to explain a lil more with the pix attached

looks awsome...

hmmm between my 2 the 87 has prob had at least 3-5k in tires, repairs, oil changes and what not in the 6 years i've had it including a top half rebuild and a swap that is yet to be completed the 95 only has about $50 worth of work done on it so i guess we'll go with somewhere in there

hmmm...$ scheme idea in the making build "cones" for that attach to the front of SUV's b/c it'll reduce the drag and increase ure gas milage by 15%* *in an independant study (this being at no load with no wind)