unccpathfinder

Theres lots of stuff out there...esp on 4x4...but has any1 here done this... the plans are: 95 motor wiring harness dash ecu (its an auto im a manual i've gotta do some checking on that) steering column some of the things i've thought of are: im not planning on swapping over the abs sensor and that good jazz will this affect the truck in any way? how crazy am i for attempting this? and im sure a lot more technical questions will come im going to try to strip the interior this weekend and get the cab harness in place my plan of attack is to leave the 87 harness in for now until i have the truck running in case i for some reason hit a brick wall i can just swap intakes/exhaust and go from there

hmm if i recall correctly u can clear that out by disconnecting the battery for a while and it most likely came from some1 replacing the brakes with the battery hooked up and/or not bleeding the ABS sensor...

got it in 10 mins...5 mins of figuring out how i was going to tilt the motor on the crate and use the air gun to bust them loose and then 5 mins to bust them loose... i turned the motor a couple times by hand and it doesnt seem to have any binds so maybe i didnt screw nething up

uhmm that lil weep hole on the master cylinder between the brake booster...i thought it somehow rusted thru or something and put aluminum foil over it and jb welded on top let it sit for a day and then about 3 months later i went to hit the brakes and it went to the floor...this was when i had a cheap 1 toothed redneck to do all my work for cheap and he was like boy u made my life hard (this was before i started tackling what i thought were major jobs and before i really knew what the hell was going on with a car) duct tape holds in my pass side headlight in my 87...also the alignment but if it gets wet the light tends to jiggle and aim at the trees

well ya see the flywheel is still connected to the crank so i was prying on both of them at the same time...sorry i took a shower and got in the bed...but i'll def attempt it when i get home from work...then i'll have to check to make sure i didnt screw nething up...that would suck

ohhh ok so thats how u get that bastard out...i follow completly now....that took a while i thought i was going to have to put a wrench on them and take them off...god i hope i didnt F up the crank shaft by prying on it... thanks

uhhh....hang on uploading pic...but mines on the motor... heres what im looking at... so i guess i wanna know how i get the flywheel off of the TC b/c its bolted from the backside of the flywheel into the TC

??? now im really confused...looking strait on to the motor i see the torque converter the flex plate then the back plate i dont see how you can seperate the TC from the motor other than "twisting and pulling" what u r describing sounds like removing the flexplate from the TC after its off of the motor... the motor is sitting in an engine crate and the tranny is hanging on the engine hoist awaiting its loading on sat morning... i just need to get the TC off of the motor b/c i dont need it and i was going to give it to cdhicks when he gets the tranny and i've never dealt with any automatics so this is foreign grounds

getting it off the motor...im assuming the flexplate? comes with it b/c the bolts are thru teh backside and i thought i posted this in the garage...mods feel free to relocate

I'm trying to get it off and the book says twist while pulling strait out...that didnt work so i tried prying it off that didnt work either...and after about 10 mins of prying i thought "is there a way i can damage the crank by prying unevenly with my luck thats prob the case i prob fubared the crank somehow... im tired and pissed so if theres a link out there i'll greatly click it but i didnt feel like fighting with the search function

i think it goes thru some sort of bracket on the frame to hold it tight...i'd check also where it runs up thru the floor and into the shifter to make sure its all hooked up there...if not i have a shift cable (i think if it didnt get chunked off of wheelmans truck)

make sure he does infact change the tbelt...if not it WILL break in like 5-10k...i did a water pump without doing the t belt...bad bad decision wish i woulda went and sold something to buy the $40 belt b/c it ended up costing me about $300 to do the top end rebuild

ahh makes sense...yea canada would be a haul

whats a cap...but if its what im thinking and ure not too far away u can come pick up the frame and use what u need...i've got a sawsall and it went thru the body like butter...its in charlotte nc

when i did my 87 i used a bottle of resolve and a bissle with the brush attachment...pulled my seats out...sprayed them down used a brush and scrubbed it in and used the vac to pull the stains out (coffee/smoke stains) i did each seat 2-3 times and the carpet 2 times and it got them mostly out u could still see some of them faintly but def cleaned them up a lot more than they were for ure rear seat did u try fabreezing it to kill the odor?

wheelmans pathy was like that i looked up thru the holes in the skid plate and u could see a "wet spot" and i could smell the gas from like 20 ft away

so if u have an auto ecu it wont work for a manual tranny?...i assumed u could go auto to manual just not the other way? wouldnt the only diff be the ecu would have shift points in it?

u need the shim...im going to guess u got the pads at advance auto parts...they're pads friggin suck for our trucks...i had 3 sets in less than a year come loose and the shim ate into my hub and finally teh last time i took them out there showed them what it had done told them to give me my money back that their pads were @!*% and i was not buying any more parts there and everything was coming from napa which i have had their pads on for about 3-4 years without any problems... u can buy replacement shims but they wont fit...i'd say just pick up some new 1's

^ yea slick would be a better option on on the east coast

ohh man i can hear him now on the jeep boards...those pathfinders are junk... well i hope ya get it figured out

i've been to napa and advance and autozone and i have yet found any1 that has the right ID therefore they would not go over the spindle...so if some1 finds them could i get a name of the store and the part #

my 95 is horrible compared to the 87...the 87 turned damn near on a dime (at least for suvs) but the 95 sometimes u have to swing it like an old school caddy...the 1st 2 weeks sucked b/c i'd try to slip in to a parking spot like i did in the 87 and would always have to back up but now i'm used to it and can get it anywhere i need to....but might check into the wheelstops b/c with the wider rims im thinking some1 adjusted them so they wont hit the frame at max turn

location?...i might have an 86 motor for sale in a couple of weeks if it runs good the only thing u would have to do is swap heads and intake in from ure old 1...

i cranked my t bars a lil bit enough to level out the front and back and keep the flares from rubbing and i notice when i back in and out of the driveway i can hear a slight squeaking but wheelmans were crazy loud B4 we changed his balls (hmm that doesnt sound right) but they were really loudand when he turned i noticed it silenced...im not really sure how u could tell if it was wheel bearings and/or ball joints b/c i believe the diagnosis process is the same...jack up the car and try to move the wheel with a rotation normal to the axle (push on the top and bottom of the wheel in the opposite direction of its spinning direction)... it could be quite possible to be the wheel bearings if they were pulled (rotors changed) and weren't packed properly and/or should have been replaced....

sounds like the hubs arent engaging and i think the autos dont engage till like 2-3 mph or if they're spinning they'll slam into gear...this is the reason i prefer manual lockers b/c u know if its in or not...i'd assume that it has something to do with the hubs