RedPath88

The primary difference is the intake, the i's have TBI (Throttle Body Injection) using 2 centrally located fuel injectors, while the e's are MPFI (Multi Port Fuel Injection) and have one fuel injector dedicated to each cylinder. Otherwise the engines themselves are the same when you are comparing the block/heads from a Pathfinder/Hardbody (WD21/D21).

You ruined it B... I got a laugh out of that everytime I would see it!!!

Posting this ad from CL, hopefully someone will see it! http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/849899861.html

Yeah for that price they are worth it. As you said, you can sell them if you don't like them.

When I bought my yota a long time ago it came with a set of WildCat EXT's, which were an MT and I have to say that they were an great tire. I did end up getting rid of them before they were worn down, but not because of the tires. I simply moved to a 33in tire. Now if they were the same as the tires you are talking about now, I cannot say for sure... all I can say is that I was happy with them then.

I have had retreads on a car (Ford Escort) twice and both times they turned out to be excellent tires. However, those were smaller on raod non-performance tires, I don't think I would risk it with high performance or larger offroad tires.

Post it up... before I bought my aftermarket system I considered getting the stock components from a wrecking yard. But not knowing exactly what items would be needed from another truck, I ended up opting for an aftermarket keyless entry.

Pinned Thanks

Multi Switch (Headlights, Turn Signals, Cruise Control) located on the left hand side of the steering column

Yeah take both the Alt and Battery in and have them tested With the light getting brighter with the increase of RPM's it sounds as though the voltage regulator may have gone out... which can cause an under or more commonly an over charging problem. Did any of the other lights on the truck brighten with the increase of RPMs? Is the battery bloated at all (check the sides)? If it is, that is a sign that it has been overcharged, which could have resulted in the battery being damaged. However, given that your multi meter read 10.5v with it running, that leads to the conclusion that it is undercharging. Which may mean nothing is wrong with the battery and it could just be the alt. Confused yet? Have them both tested One or more single beams (low or high, left or right) out with no change when a new bulb is installed does point to the typical switch issue most of us have had to deal with at one point or another. You can take the switch apart, clean and possibly tweak the contacts to make it work a little longer. But speaking from personal experience here, it's not going to extend the life for very long and in the end, even if you repeate this proccess, you will end up replacing the entire switch. When you do, you might consider installing some relays in the headlight wiring, that will not only move the high power draw of the head lamps off of the switch, thus increasing the lifespan of the new switch, but it can also increase to performance of the lights.

No matter how little this happens it is still way to often... Firm reminder for everyone else in the community to take care and pay attention to every detail when performing a recover.

I am sorry to hear, but 40% fuel savings? Sounds like a good enough reason to me! Please do feel free to stick around, your always welcome here TM

My vote goes for a wrecking yard find as well, I picked mine up for $50 several years ago and see them all the time for anywhere between 35 and 70 bucks And as MWS mentioned, stay away from a pickup bumper unless you are sure that all the towing you are going to do will be light duty at best. If you even think that you might have the need to tow something heavier in the future then hold out for a Class III. I mean, why spend the money twice

So using a Measurement Converter such as "Digital Dutch" this comes out to be 5.38911 +/- 0.105669 US Quarts

The front case covers are in fact different between A/T and M/T models. But I do not see any other differences noted within that year of the manual (1994)

Need an exhaust shop in SE King County

Ok lol that's what I was hoping your were about there, thought I might have to you myself... but you already took care of that

WTH are you talking about adam?

Did you read the TSB's linked in the first post? So using a Measurement Converter such as "Digital Dutch" this comes out to be 5.38911 +/- 0.105669 US Quarts From the first post: I HEAVILY recommend that you take his advice here... no GL5, unless you reasearch the GL5 fluids and are absolutely sure that they will not damage the soft metal parts. I personally used Redline MT90 as well (which is a GL4 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil) And as for Valvoline this is from McClurgM's post on Page 5: Now not to doubt what he said, but if it were me, I would verify that by calling myself before buying any such fluid.

That is a complete lift package for Hardbody's. However, they do list the components prices and the arms are listed as $386.45 Rough Country's UCA's are Superlift arms, just power coated instead of zinc coated.

Add to that tire pressure, if they are low the steering will be a bit harder... especially at low speed or when your not moving at all.

First of all "wow" to your reply there. I don't think Mark is being the way you appear to think he is. Was it an error? Sure, that is not in question. Will they honor the price at which they SOLD them to Mark? Probably not. Prices may very well be subject to change, but once a deal is made they can't really expect a customer be ok with a price increase. He "paid" has an invoice to prove it. They should honor whatever price they set, error or not. Now although I believe that is they way it should be, this situation is a little different And as a side note, charging $900 for S&H would open them up for a lawsuit.. that would not be a smart move.

I was looking at it after they changed it I guess (just before you posted the update)

There is a thread here where k9sar detailed many of the front springs offered in Grand Cherokee's (and how to ID them) if you search around for it you should be able to find it. One thing that was discovered is that the springs we prefer for lifting the rears of our pathy's can be found in both the V8 and I6 equipped models

There have been several people ther who have done that, just try giving them a call and asking about it. Mention that were reffered to them by us and see what happens.