RedPath88

Pro's: Smooths steering while driving on rougher roads (onroad) Helps absorb light to moderate hits while offroad (and onroad potholes) Con's: Cost Some claim it takes away to much steering feedback while driving.

nah, this was a long time ago, it may have been someone on the wd21forums ------------------- Edit: Figured it out... it was 88

I seem to remember that someone, don't remember who, welded angle iron onto the tubular ones as a couple have done to the i beam versions, but this time it was to to strengthen them.

"I Beam" (based on reports by other members), Yes, Yes. Some claim the round ones slide over stuff easier. To remedy that while keeping the early style TA's a couple people have welded angle iron to the bottom edges.

*raises hand* I'm one of them... both keyway rounded out at the same time, destroyed 2 pullers just getting the pulley off! Rendered the crank useless and ended up replacing a strong running engine

I recommend that you post a request for the parts that you need in the "Classifieds>Parts Wanted" section. You might have better luck in there. Also, check the Parts for Sale section for vehicles being parted out or other members selling extra parts that they have.

Older thread, prices/payment/contact info may be outdated Hoohaa Centerlinks

Yep, same centerlnks... formerly known as hoohaa CL's Upgrading the CL will address most of your steering concerns

Nice Pezzy

If the image you posted is the rack you are talking about, then THIS should help.

Yes the front suspension of the WD21 Pathfinders and 4WD HB's are the same across all years, thus the reason you never see a "year" attached to comments like mine Best bet, use the year that your Pathfinder is, that way you don't get confused while talking to them

That's the way to do it and that's in the average price range when buying the arms directly from RC for our "HB's" As for shipping out of the US, USPS is in nearly every situation, the way to go I use them when sending stuff to NZ for another member here and it's substantially cheaper

Got it backwards according to the FSM... Only the 4 pinion, drum brake equipped H233B's on the WD21's show a thrust block.

Never actually said it was, I was generalizing by referring to function of the complete assembly

Guess that depends on how far it pops up to begin with. If yours will still shift from 4L to N without downward force, then yeah, it probably does go higher, but it may need a little help if it has note done it in a while. Mine did not pop up at all, in fact, neither of them did (original and the one attached to my replacement tranny) Look as it as N being the low spot across the range, like this ----_-- you push down to get to the N plane, and up on either side of it

grassroots4x4 for a centerlink, (this is an upgrade, not a standard CL) and the parts store for the TRE's

Once you shift it into 4L, PULL the handle, it moves and locks the transfer case into gear This is something that I did not know about for the longest time The first time I did it, it felt stuck, but then poped and moved. Now it's simple to do... kinda tells me that it had not been "locked in" in a very long time. The 4L problem is a common and well known side effect of a BL

Yes, all the "i" TBI TB's are the same.

You know you can lock the shifter into 4L, right?

Pretty sure my SE seats don't have them Adam, you should know better than to generalize trim level specs like that

That is strange... it does when you open a front door, but not the back? Makes no sense

If you are talking aout the actual bonding agent used to "glue" (and seal) the glass in place, then no, do not use any of those for installation. They simply do not have the strength required to do the job http://www.automedia...ccr20050801wi/1 There are several out there, such as those offered by 3M

added more to the post above... Strange, mine shows earth when any door is opened including the rear hatch. There is a diode in the rear door/light system that, as I understand it, prevents the rear light from being turned on when the front door opens, but allows the front light to be turned on by the rear door. Perhaps you have tapped the line on the wrong side of that diode? Although, I don't think that would matter. since it should show power on both sides of the diode when the hatch is opened (it should only prevent power from going front to rear, not rear to front) I suggest that you verify the wire again and also check the other red/black one.

The boot? If by that you mean the rear hatch/door, then it will work. When you open the rear door it energizes the front interior light as well, so it will trip the alarm just as opening a front door would I plan to wire in a new switch for the rear glass as well. This will be wired to trip the alarm if opened when armed. I am also thinking of linking it to the interior lights as well.