RedPath88

That was exactly what I was going to post... well sorta, I was going to post a link to the thread here on that topic http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15631 That contains a link to the same article and talk amongst our own members

Break out a multimeter and start checking voltages and wires for continuity. Check the switch that you put it make sure it is good. Are you getting power at the switch? Is it making it out of the switch, is it present at the rear of the truck. Is your ground(s) good? Visually inspect the bulbs and sockets. Using a couple pieces of wire, apply power to the bulbs... basically start troubleshooting single sections/parts/pieces of the system. Narrow it down

I've never noticed mine to go side to side, just up and down a little until I adjusted the front pads. If you have both of those and they are in good shape then they "should" control the side to side movement pretty well.

I read and can post from my regulare (read non-apple and non-google) cell phone with no trouble at all. But IPB has something: IPB's iPhone app And they are working on an Android specific application.

Ditto on the seatbelt warning, but not on the door chime... that don't bother me either.

JCW has the best price you found? I am showing them at $91 for a new shaft. Rockauto.com sells new ones for as low as $65 before the 5% discount they are giving to all NPORA members, see their pinned thread in the Parts for sale section. Also consider talking to Alkorahil for Nissan parts and prices, look for his thread in the Services section Have you checked around locally? Online prices for local stores around here are.. O'Reilly lists them for $100 (really beginning to hate them, since they took over CSK Auto), Autozone $60-70, Napa from $54 and CRAP (called for price) (Cut Rate Auto Parts - small local chain) says $70. Those are mainly reman prices with core charges ranging from 15-100 (100 being average) Timing belt replacements quotes have ranged from $600's on up to 1500, depending on what else is done with it (ie waterpump, etc). Is this something you have the tools and location that would allow you to do it yourself? How to Change Your Timing Belt!

There is a new system for handling URL format, when the upgrade was first completed that system was turned on by default (which is becoming the standard for all forums). But we had to turn that feature off due to the fact that it, by default, renders all former URL's dead. This means that all links to internal forum pages that anyone has ever posted, along with all saved links that people have kept in their Favorites, were also useless. With the feature currently turned off, all former links function again. However, because the standard is shifting to the new URL format, IPB (and apparently all others) are shifting to better support it. As a result, we are working with IPB to see if there is a happy medium that will allow us to transition to the new system, while still supporting older links. Over the next couple days, you may notice that some links, both posted internally and those you may have saved in your Favorites either work intermittently, or not at all. This should only be temporary and possibly intermittently. If this is successful then we will be on the new format (where it displays the topic name in the URL) while older links remain functional (if this does happen PLEASE UPDATE YOUR LINKS!!). If this does not work, then we will turn the new system off so everything returns to normal and will have to deal with transitioning at a later time. Thanks for your patience -Red EDIT: Please not that during the trial period, if you save a link using the new format and we end up having to go back to the old style, your links will be rendered dead.

There was a recent minor upgrade to the forum software performed (by the host this time.) Although this was an authorized update, unfortunately the notification given to us was not sufficient for us to warn anyone. However, it went smoothly and only took about 20min to complete. As always, in the event of a forum outage please look to the NPORA's Home site for more information. www.nissanpathfinders.net

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2598

Ok I slacked off on adding new members (sorry Shabl and everyone else, but thanks for being patient ) Four new members were added Welcome to: TheCrow GoPathyGo Nismothunder tmoore4512 You can find your Official NPORA Member pages here: www.nissanpathfinders.net Oh and 18 non-eligible apps rooted through and removed

The majority of 88's driving was on road as it was his daily driver at the time, from what I remember But he did spend a lot of weekends off road, wheeling and looking for rocks. Biasply tires wear faster that radials on road, that's pretty much a given. If your going to stick to off road, those tires should last a lot longer... aside from the damage from sharp rocks as such that 88 mentioned in dowser quotes. You can email as Dowser said, or just send him a PM, his PM Notification is turned on, so he will get an email automatically when you send a PM

Unless you find yourself there often... I agree

Width and back spacing of the tires and wheels? You should be fine with the lift, stock Pathy's came with optional 31's

Yeah since it's a TM lift "odds are" that it is a drop bracket lift not a UCA/Torsion bar combo. You would need to make some rear coil spaces to make up the difference... or some good lift springs.

Can you still make a change to the order? Make the whole kit $8 cheaper (save the shipping) by having it sent to a local store for pickup... if you have one.

Tint laws vary state to state

Check craigslist's in near by area's too, I had originally bought a 2in lift (for the same reasons as you) but later decided that I would need a 3in to accomplish all of my mods. I found an unopened 3in lift on CL. Bought it, then sold my 2in to another member here

It's pretty simple, remove the cover, unplug the harness, remove the screws that hold the switch assembly in. There may be a little more to it, I don't remember exactly since it's been so long. The contact cover iirc is held by a couple clips... but it might have been small screws. Clean them and test. If they still don't work reliably give them a little bend, to much and they will not turn off. Use a multimeter to test, rather than constantly reinstalling in the truck.

It won't correct the faulty switch, but it will prevent another switch from failing as early. You "can" open the switch up and tweak the contacts a little to buy a bit more time (depending on the condition of the contacts) but eventually you will need to replace it. Doing this a couple times gave me a couple months. If you tweak them and do the mod you may get even more time from it. Best bet though, would be to replace the switch and do the mod My replacement switch was about $80 iirc from the dealer several years ago, not sure what the current price is now, but you should contact Rob (Alkorahil) and see what kinda of a price for a factory switch he can give you - GENUINE NISSAN PARTS Another option would be RockAuto who recently contacted us for approval and extended a discount program to all NPORA members - RockAuto.com Discount Code

Because unlike there... they were never available in North America "Somethings not right here" *looks around* *looks at clino* Oh CRAP! I'M UPSIDEDOWN!!!!! Not a lot of us can say we have one

I did mine by myself, not hard at all That is, as long as you don't have an problem bolt issues. Hose down all bolts with a penetrating oil (11-2 X's a day) for a few days to a week before starting, just to help reduce the chance of a problem. And since yours is a 2Dr, you should not have the rear bolt issue that many 4Dr owners encounter

They make a bracket kit for aftermarket replacements such as Rancho Rancho Part Numbers Kit: RS97268 Shock only: RS5402 Bracket only: RS5533 *we will work on getting the pictures in this thread restored again*

Converting an H233B would be a custom job, your going to have to research it. But first I highly recommend that you research the "normal" methods and components used to do a SAS on a Nissan, right here, in this section

No need to cross post this in several section.. once is enough. If you only want to drive straight then it will work OK... or if you want to spend a lot of time and money converting an H233B to allow steering knuckles and all the associated mods, then yes, you can. Or you can research a SAS options for out trucks here on the board, then ask questions to clear up anything you still do not understand *deleting the other threads and moving this one to the sas/hardcore*

If your bars have never been re-indexed and the front is sitting extremely low then I would start there *instructions can be found in the Garage section*, that will likely solve the problem. Of it's sitting fairly close to where it should be, but it's just not the same on both sides then cranking up the low side, or turning down the high side (depending on where it sits overall, right now) will take care of it. That said, if you intend on replacing the t-bars soon, no matter what condition the stock ones are in, then let it be until you swap in the new bars. Otherwise your just doing the work twice