OR99.5Speed

Adding to that, not only a good set of all-terrains, but if you have the stock 15x6 chrome steelies I would swap those out, at least with the 15x8s on the SE or some newer Pathfinder wheels, or go aftermarket. Then you can move up to a 31" tire or if you have 16"s, you can at least do a 255/70-16.

There are actually tires on trucks with the Remington name, or at least I have seen them in the Southeast a good bit. My uncle is in the tire biz as an executive for Yokohama. He said that there are only a few companies, e.g. GM owns Buick, Chevy, Saturn, etc. instead of them being independently owned. For example, the "National" brand tires on my rig are actually made by Yokohama. Michelin makes the Liberatior for Wal-Mart. To answer the original question, I have no experience with their tires. I have seen them as an inexpensive light truck tire. Friends have had great experiences with Kelly tires, another inexpensive tire you should try out.

Basically, even though you changed the tranny fluid now, it's still on its last legs, i.e. too little too late. Nothing you can do really to prolong the life of it, maybe try one of those Lucas products but I personally think they are snake oil. About the neutral drops, you got it! Edit: About the neutral drops, don't take my advice. It's just asking to kill a driveshaft and a diff and whatever else along the way. Don't do it and I don't want to be responsible if you do!

Mine was a 1996 too, Forest Green Laredo over Tan cloth, I actually miss the thing! As far as quickening it's demise, I would say a few neutral drops would do! Normally I would frown on this behavior but in this case maybe not! Or you could put some wrong fluid in the tranny but the shop may be able to detect that. Or just stomp on it when it's hesitating to shift. Makes me sick about destroying something but not a bad call for the situation.

Funny, my ZJ Grand Cherokee did that too, but on the 1st to 2nd shift in the mornings, i.e. cold. That is the beginning of a failing auto tranny. You did the right thing by having the fluid changed, but it will crap out. Make sure that it is noted by mechanics that the tranny is on it's way out, and check your warranty clauses, because aftermarket warranty companies are up there on the slime charts...they will do anything to not pay a claim.

Most Ebay kits won't fit properly...plenty of horror stories there, and good luck finding matching wood trim.

4 MPG gain is bull@!*%, sorry. Try 1 MPG if you can keep your foot out of it. You should be doing this mod for the sound and the power. Since you have the VQ35, wise choice. I naturally stay away from K&N. Try Weapon-R and HKS. Doubt AEM makes an intake. The sock is a good idea, and don't worry about water, just don't drive in a lake, haha. Remember, the intake will lose HP and TQ if not properly insulated from engine heat. If the kit does not include a heatshield you will have to fab one up.

I would get OEM Nissan strut mounts, OME suspension with the rear OME shocks, KYB struts off of www.tirerack.com Do a search...I started a huge thread about the same topic and got great advice.

I think I remember somebody wiring their 96-99 corner lamps to act as turn signals...shouldn't be THAT hard anyways...

Do a search for Dave Burnette at a dealer in Austin...I can't remember which one...I know I posted it in the Garage... For bushings, always Google that stuff and see if companies like Energy Suspension make them... For cats, I do Magnaflow, or just hollow them out and run O2 simulators.

Weird, no idea... I wonder if it's the MAF or related to the MAF. I know a new one is around $500!!!

Glad to see you are sticking with the Pathfinder, at least for now. Great looking exhaust, I'm a bit jealous!

I voted QX4 and I have a Pathfinder... I would love to put those tails on mine...but I'm 99% sure I need a different wiring harness, and I don't want to mess with that. Do the QX4 tails have backing up lights? I know the 2001's are next to the license plate.

Mine feels like crap, and I may go with used stock springs and new KYB struts and Rancho rears... My sagging is very visible, not sure if yours is or not. My ride is buckboard stiff, and the tires squeal a lot, obvious that they are spending some airtime! :o

Good call on wearing your seatbelt...glad to see you are okay. Also glad to hear of the outside spare serving a purpose in a collision, always wondered what would happen. Also a good call on buying it back from insurance. Does John want to buy it from you? I don't want it but it sounds like you can make some $$$ parting it.. Lastly, go for the 2.3 CL. Good cars, good gas mileage. Really not much not to like.

Well, my engine may be done soon, and I was thinking about this swap, but the fact that I can't do this myself is discouraging. You know what you are doing with motor swaps, but all of the stuff like brackets and mounts, etc. could be a real PITA. Not to mention the cost of the motor plus ECU. If you do this certainly provide a writeup, if you are sucessful I will certainly do it and keep the Pathfinder.

Pathfinder sounds like a good choice for you. One thing that you need to take into consideration is whether or not you want the All-Mode transfer case or not. I have the regular, lever-operated two-speed and it's good for off-road, but I would prefer the All-Mode that was on the LE's and started on the SE in I think 2003. The "normal" style roof-rack is one of the strongest racks out there. If you end up with the one that says Pathfinder, I'm sure someone will want to trade. I like the tubular style's looks because I never put anything up there.

Trialsin, you rule. I'm gonna follow these instructions and see if I'm not too incompetent to do it. I called the stealer out of curiosity to see how much this stuff would cost...$25 for each headlamp installed...and that's just labor! HAHAHA i just laughed and hung up. I expected it but still....

Seems that our filters are in the same place... I also removed several medium sized silver Philips head screws. From what you're saying, I only needed to remove the front clip that holds the top and bottom parts of the black box together. This is the only clip, right? What is the clip at the bottom? Did you have to unscrew these screws? Maybe I just wasn't jiggling it hard enough. I was able to get it to where the male part on each side of the bottom part went down enough to exit the female top thing after I got the clip off. Once I get the males seperate and the clip off I'm good to go? Didn't know anything about two filters. I peeked at one long one in the box longitudinally, just like the ones pictured. Thank you so much for your patience Trialsin!

I got to the point where I'm looking at the black box containing the filter. I took the clip off, no prob. I could crack the box open at the middle but couldn't get it removed...it seemed like I was overlooking a screw at the bottom of the box but no idea. Any suggestions? Your 2001 has a different dash than mine. I don't have that trim piece above the glove box. Did you remove the black box entirely? How did you get access to the filter and be able to put the new one in? Thanks Trialsin!

Thanks for the replies... Trialsin: Thanks for posting that up, but I'm trying to decipher it...been a long day. Figure A: Looks to be removing the hood; not necessary in my case. Figure B: I need to take out my corner lamp in order to slide the headlight out sideways??? Makes sense Figure C: This is where I'm confused. I guess I remover the piece below the headlight before removing the headlight assembly? Any ideas? I'll take a look at this stuff tomorrow morning, I just need to get it 100% correct in my head or else I'll be screwed.

Okay, need some help on this one too... I'm a terrible n00b mechanic. I followed this thread and past threads and found the diagram of how to remove stuff. Anyways, I removed the glovebox, then the plastic surround, unscrewed those big gold screws unclipped the clip on the black box unscrewed the silver philips head screws BUT the damned black box still won't open! Is there a hidden screw of some sort? I thought I was going to break something. I do have a disgusting filter in there that I got a peak of... :X

I'm bumping this ANCIENT thread... The passenger side headlight passed away this weekend. I picked up a pair of OEM Sylvania H4 bulbs to put in. Anyways, my battery is humongous and difficult to remove. So in order to get easier access to the back of the housing I need to at least slide out the headlight assembly. How do I remove the headlight assembly? Any pictograms? I know Pezzy is good about this stuff.... Thanks in advance!

Holy rusted brake drums Batman! I'm beyond words Pezzy, that looks absolutely fantastic! A+ for effort and execution. Thanks for taking pics too. Keep us updated on how it holds up on the trails!

My rear springs are dead...bottomed-out for good. The previous owner had a horse trailer he towed, and mine has the original suspension with 108k miles. If I were you, or me, I would get the OME suspension. If we keep the Pathfinder thats what's going on mine. I also have a sub and a tow hitch and the outside spare stuff but still...mine sags way too much.