headpeace

yeh, I've been meaning to do that too. Here's a link to a topic I posted Linky

Put on new front pads, brakes were squishy to the floor, bled x2 still squishy to the floor. Any ideas? Last time I put new front pads on all was good, no bleeding necessary. WTF? The booster seemed good before I put the new pads on today

it is all covered here somewhere, I think in the garage section. The UCAs correct for ball joint angle, front JGC springs are what you want, I didn't need a compressor to put mine in, depends on how you do it, probably easier with a spring compressor though

get sliders

not to jack a thread, but whats the easiest way to get a HB shifter out?

I agree, or you could go with JGC springs and save some money

very easy, look for keyless ride store on ebay

wish I had $350 for an alt, hope that thing has a lifetime warranty

Hey Red, did you run new 6 ga to the battery?

well if anyone is wondering other than me, don't splice where I did, that won't work. If I could do it over I would splice in front of the radiator. Fortunately I was able to fix my mistake and all is good again.

nissan should replace your seatbelt for free, seat belts are lifetime warranty

let's pretend I didn't splice that wire, would anyone have an idea what to check with the same problem? I looked at the FSM and it doesn't appear that that wire goes anywhere else

alright, so I ran a new 6 gauge from the alt and spliced into the white wire where the red arrow points in above link. Now I it won't start, no power to the interior except the light for the clock in the dash but no clock display , the headlights work but not the blinkers. Checked all the fuses in the fuse box, the one at the positive post, and the 2 I found under the fusible link cap - all good. Any ideas before I do some major cutting to see if the wire I spliced split off to somewhere else between the battery and alt?

yeh I know where it plugs in I just want to make sure that that indeed is the correct wire that goes to the alt

can anyone confirm that the white wire with the red arrow pointing at it in the pic link above is the wire that goes to the alt? I checked both ends and got 0.2 ohms

yellow box = wacky connector red arrow = wire from alt pic

anybody?

alright so the wire going from the alt to the battery is definintely not 10 gauge, more like 6 prob 4. So the other end goes into some wacky plastic connector that goes into another wacky connector eventually ending at the positive post. Can I surpass the wacky connectors and go straight to the positive post???

so I've decided to put a new positive wire from the alt to the battery in, will 12 gauge be sufficient? Does the wire go straight from the back of the alt to the positive battery post?

Thats a fear I have but I still think it was the AZ craptastic alt, last week the voltage regulator started acting crazy, at idle it would go from like 13.5 to 15.5 back to 13.5 over and over. So I think the VR just had it, the positive post on the back looked fried

contrary to another post in a different topic Oreilly just told me the maxima alt is 90 amp, still better than 70

well the alty is dead AGAIN! Here's a few questions hopefully you guys/gals can help me with 1. Anyone know a ball park figure on alty prices at pick and pull? My plan was to get a quest and put that on, I could get another craptastic autozone alt to get me by until I can do this if the price at P&P isn't crazy for a used alt. 2. Or should I just get a reman Oreilly Maxima 95 amp alt and pay the price to get out of the autozone loop of changing the alt every 6 months?

hoohaa CL

I like em

^ ?