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headpeace

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Everything posted by headpeace

  1. dam, altternator here is around $80-$90 US with lifetime warranty, you could always put the alt in yourself and save the labor charge
  2. I would check the alternator, check your battery with the engine running if your only getting 12V then your alty is probably toast
  3. wow, that was a blast from the past
  4. What did you use and how did you get the connectors out of the new sockets?
  5. I've had mine bypassed since March, using the factory cooler only and the fluid is still nice and red, but it certainly wouldn't hurt to add an extra. I plan to add a temp gauge at some point and then determine if I need an extra cooler. If you tow anything I would say definitely add another cooler
  6. Hey Mike, can you post a pic of the foam insulation that needs to be removed?
  7. did your switch problem cease after you did this mod?
  8. yep, common on the 05 and up and supposedly can't be fixed without raising the body. I've heard Nissan used the wrong type of metal in those pipes and the coolant will corrode them. I've also heard there is foam insulation on them that tends to get dirt/sand/rocks stuck in it and eventually wears the pipe away. I don't know which theory is correct but that sux man. I'm hoping I don't end up with the same problem
  9. do I need high temp sockets or can I use the ones I have? Can I just use 2 30 amp relays instead of 1 30 and 1 40? Also what amp fuse should I get? So 10 gauge from battery to inline fuse to relay, then 10 gauge from relay to socket basically and previous wires from switch to relays, is that correct?
  10. Hey TMoore, can you give me a list of what you actually did use out of all the things you have pictured on your link?
  11. I've got the same rack, the "bug killer" is a fairing, before I installed the fairing the rack would "howl' at highway speeds. Check out Mr Pickles setup, he made a fairing out of clear plexiglass and mounted lights behind it
  12. yeh if I go with a new switch I'll definitely contact Rob, can you explain to me how I would clean/replace the switch? Do I have to take the column plastic pieces off? Where do I start?
  13. yeh, nice find. put the back one on and add rear lights for extra reverse/trail lights or as tailgater deterrent
  14. yeah I was planning on doing 88's mod "one of these days", If that will fix my problem I can kill 2 birds with one stone. But I'm confused as to how that will fix a faulty switch? BTW, what caught on fire?
  15. I was afraid of that, what is involved with replacing it? would it be easier to just wire up an aftermarket switch somewhere?
  16. the other night I started the PF, turned the HL switch on and no headlights, so I turned the switch off and back on again and voile' - the Headlights came on. Last night start up the PF, back out and start to drive down the road, turn on the headlights and get nothing, turn the switch on and off multiple times - still no headlights. Didn't have time to check the fuse - I'll do that tonight, really don't think it's the bulbs themselves. So other than the obvious (fuse, bulbs) what else should I look for to try and fix this problem?
  17. mine came with footwell lighting, came on when I pressed the FOB, somehow got stuck in the on position years ago and I just removed them. Check the JY's for 93 and up
  18. Holy Shiite Simon, I quess I'm outta the loop, don't visit poho anymore, I just noticed you are rollin an X now, what happened to your pathy? BTW i have found the same thing with the hole vs solid headrests as Simon
  19. My AC isn't bad at all, especially down here in the South, but I wonder at times if it could use a little charge, hell it's 17 years old. I think maybe it could be a bit cooler. Has anyone bought/used the charger kit things from your local auto parts store/walmart, etc..... If so any comments as to how it worked or if they are detrimental to our AC systems?
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